Steering 64 Signet..

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HotLines

HotLines

Realist - Free Thinker
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Has anyone, company or whatever built a rack and pinion setup for an early A Body... I definitely need to change to rack and pinion on my 64 using it's original K frame with it's torsion bar suspension...

Thanks in advance ...
 
Can I ask why you "definitely need to change" to R&P? What kind of issues or problems are you experiencing?

Mike in FL
 
I've owned this vehicle 30 years and it has no problems or issues in it's steering. The reason I am asking is of personal preference, just like some prefer to change to an Alterkation, I prefer not to as I've always liked the torsion bar suspension, yet I would like not to have my steering box and linkage interfere with what I have planned for.

Hope you understand..
 
I do understand.

I have seen a thread on here where someone converted a stock '67-76 K-frame to R&P. Sorry, don't have the link right now.

The vintage of Mopars are all "rear steer". Meaning the line through the lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends intercepts (or comes close) the center line of the rear axle.

To have a reasonable chance of doing this, you will need to convert the car to need "front steering" arms. You cant just turn the lower ball joints / steering arms around. This is the Ackerman geometry of your suspension. (This means that the inside tire turns further into a turn than the outside tire.)

If you have access, look at a 1st gen Camaro or Firebired, '67-69, or a '68-74 Nova or similar. These are "front steer" cars. The outer tie rod end, now ahead of the lower ball joint, needs to be further outboard to keep this line in the same place.

It should be possible to "modify" a stock lower ball joint / steering arm with application of sufficient heat, to bend the arm the other way... HOWEVER I suggest taking a look at Mustang II suspension pieces to see if some steering arms could be adapted.

The mounting of the steering rack should be realtively simple to figure out, but you need to have it at the proper height (bump steer) and positioned fore/aft corectly (again, part of the Ackerman issue).

Hope it helps.
Mike in FL
 
It has been done, but is very difficult. Hardest is providing proper structural support for the rack. Read on rodder sites like HAMB. Watch the Wheeler Dealers episode where they fixed a hot rod that was almost un-driveable due to bump steer. Ed China gives a simple explanation of the problem.

I can see your need to drop the Mopar gearbox for space, though a manual box often solves that. Otherwise, nothing wrong with Pitman arm steering and after adding the new structure, a rack & pinion might be heavier. My 80's M-B cars have Pitman arms, as do many U.S. trucks. Consider the new electric-assist steering like Chevy Cobalt or Volt. The rack is then manual and smaller/simpler, putting more bulk under the dash where you have room.
 
Thank you dodgedartgt and thank you Bill Grissom...

Bill, I do have manual steering and yes I do agree with you that there is nothing wrong with it, yet my problem extends to the kind of oil pan I want to use. I know nothing of the steering on the Cobalt or volt and I will check it out and if I cannot change to R&P, I may just speak with Hemi Denny about his tubular K frame... Yet when I think about coil suspension over torsion bars, I might as well just turn my Signet into a Ford or Chevy like others have done. If it does come to tubular K frame, which do you suggest?
Thank you...
 
HotLines said:
... If it does come to tubular K frame, which do you suggest?...
Click to expand...
I'll let others reply, and there are many past posts on that. An after-market coil-over is way beyond my price point & ambition. I am happy with the factory torsion bar design - better handling than competitors had then, simple adjustments and repairs. Porsche's use it. The only case I might consider a coil-over is if the front rails had to be replaced anyway, from corrosion or accident, though few such cars would warrant a >$3K investment.
 
Bill I agree with your entire statement. I too cannot see a 3K investment so to speak..... My Signet is entirely rust free and has been frame connected for the past almost 30 years, I am just getting frustrated with things I want to do.. Although many did not like the CAP tubular K frame, they made one for the early A using the torsion bars and in the middle of a deal some years back, he called me saying he was selling his company. The engine I am looking to stick in my car weighs under 400 lbs and will probably interfere with the steering...
 
HotLines said:
Been through that 66fs,,, Thanks anyhow
Click to expand...

I figured you had already thought of that. I was just thinking out loud. You never know when something will click or spark a Eureka moment. The guys in Australia are pretty creative, I think I've seen some conversion kits to rack and pinion when I was researching 9.5 clutches that would hold a warm 273.
 
My car has gone through every small block Chrysler has and now after thirty years, a change it needed... I know those Aussies always have something to offer..
 
Please inform us of your engine plan. An LS wouldn't offend me, and has been done (not sure about an early A). Modern Hemis have been done. Real cool might be a Chrysler 2.4L turbo SRT and I understand there were rear-drive US Postal jeeps which used that engine (non-turbo) so there is a transmission that fits. Maybe a M-B 5 cyl diesel. I saw a guy put one in a 90's M-B gas car. Must be a hard-core diesel fan to do that.
 
Modern Hemi?? Do you mean the Northstar, hahaha. Although the only American made Real Hemi in this Millennium has been the Cadillac Northstar...

I done a lot of homework in the past and considered the LS engines over the new Hemi for a number of reasons, all of which mean nothing to Moparians. What this normally means to me are the problems and support associated with either engine as well as the cost between both.. At any given day, I could pickup a 2000 Z28 with an LS1 and T56 w/ 100K miles on it for 3K, whereas I will have practically everything needed, yet still can sell what's not needed and wind up having the total cost at a g note and go from there.... My real dilemma lies in the fact that I already have a hi-way cruiser in the form of a 90 Chevy pickup which gets me 25+ mpg and can travel at a high rate of speed. I guess it's just that I see driving in my truck more of a enjoyment than I do in my Signet and that bothers me after having gone through 5 engines.... And to top it off, I have another Signet, a 65, a 76 Dodge Californian pickup, 87 mr2, an 8 wheel 7foot long 4x4, 2-340 shortblocks and numerous stuff I'll just never use again.... There's the whole nut in the shell of life...

Maybe things I think of will change as I clear my mind..

An d Bill, in the 30 years I've owned this 64, I never really finished the interior
 
I wonder if Firm Feel makes a steering box for the 64 Valiant.. Anyone here use one in a 1964 Valiant?
 
Yes, they are the same as later boxes. I used one on a 64 Barracuda. You are talking manual box? 16:1, 20:1 as well as the standard. They do very nice work.
 
Thank you, it's just that when I view them, they do not look like a 64 steering box... Yet I will call them ..... Thanks again

Yes, the box is manual... I have power steering on my 65 Signet which I may do a swap but who knows. I should have gotten the Firm Feel years back but hey, I am sometimes a late starter
 
There is a company called Unisteer that offers bolt in rack and pinion systems for Mopars. They have kits for B and E bodies only on their site. You might contact them and see if they offer or are going to offer an A body unit.
 
Another good steering upgrade is the roller bearing idler arm kit '62-'67 "A" Body and the "C" body tie rod system.
 
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