Steering column removal?

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68darrt

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hey, im changing my dart over to manual steering and i know i need the longer steering coulmn. What/how is the best way to remove it?
 
2 bolts hold the column to the dash, 3 bolts hold to column to the firewall and it is connected to the steering box with a slip joint secured with a roll pin. That's the hard part. Get a pin punch of the same diameter and give it a few good whacks. It should pop out. This is easier to do before you un-bolt it from the firewall. Harbor Freight sells a pretty good set cheap.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93111

Check for a location near you.
Jim
 
Once you got the roll pin out, spray the hole , etc.., with wd-40 and remove the firewall bolts. Just loosen the dash bolts 2, 3, or 2 nuts and one bolt, depends on year /model. You should be able to push the box coupling off or atleast offward with a ball joint splitter. Having the weight of the column working against you but aligned and loose will help. The coupling can be stuburn. Work it up and down while sparying. Now drop the steering wheel to the seat. Then push the coupling off.
 
One more question: what is the length diff. between power and manual steering columns in my 68 dart?
 
Okay, like the guy i bought the steering box off, said to me that i could just remove the plastic injections ( the ones that collapse in a crash) and just extend it the right amount ad weld it back together. I figured id give it a try, so i but i cant figure out how to get the actual shaft out of the outer case?
 
Okay, like the guy i bought the steering box off, said to me that i could just remove the plastic injections ( the ones that collapse in a crash) and just extend it the right amount ad weld it back together. I figured id give it a try, so i but i cant figure out how to get the actual shaft out of the outer case?
I wouldn't do that myself but lots of folks have. If you take the column apart (shaft comes out the bottom) you may as well plan on new bearings, etc...

Another method is to grind away a tiny weld neer the bottom end of the shaft and replace just that final section. You would still need the short final from a donor p/s shaft. It wouldn't have to come from A-body though.

Edit or vise-versa , LOL reread shows you're going from p/s to manual
 
If you're going to extend the shaft and weld it.....just do a small tack weld. You still want it to collapse in a collision like it was designed to do.
 
Dang it... I might be wrong here but if my memory serves correct ...
it is possible to shorten a manual shaft the 3 inches needed but not possible to lengthen the p/s one that far via that "collapse pin defeat" method.
 
RedFish, Unless 68 and early 71 72 columns are different, we extended our PS column this way using the tack weld method. There was about a 4" overlap before and about 2" now.

Probably not the best way, but alot less hassle than trying to find another column and never knowing what you're going to get. Hopefully the "collision" aspect never becomes a factor....LOL :pale:
 
thanks for al the help guys! i got everything pulled apart this afternoon, and im ready to tack the shaft at the longer length. 6pk2go, did you only lenghten your column 2 inches? b/c you said you went from a 4" overlap to a 2" overlap
 
Measurement is approximate. Would recommend you hold it in the engine bay and mark it before the tack weld. There is a little room for adjustment to fine tune the fit. Hope this makes sense......
 
instead of welding, I would drill two small holes and insert brass pins or tacks. That way you have the length you need, and it still collapses as intended.
 
***CAUTION*** about welding on the steering column. Make sure you remove the turn signal cam and disconnect any wiring. The current from your welder is going to seek out the path of least resistance.

Go ahead, ask me how I know this....

Jerry
 
You can buy adapter to put manuel box with power streering columb ! Check with Year One or Paddock or Layson's for that part
 
hey guys thanks for the help. i ended up extending it and tacking it at the right length. Thanks for all the good info!
 
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