steering coupler

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crabillac

crabillac

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Where can I find a blown-up diagram of the coupler side of a steering column for a 1967 Barracuda. I just need to see how the whole thing goes together with the shoes, the clip, the cover thing etc. Thanks:angry7:
 
If someone else hasn't posted that info tomarrow morning, I'll hunt it down. I know I have it archived here somewhere. Cheers
 
I know I have a exploded view of the box coupling with rebuild instructions here somewhere. After well over an hour of searching I haven't found it :(
I think I got it from the single vendor of rebuild kits that included this info. It may be on actual paper and ink rather than data which would explain why I didn't find it in digital archives.
Sorry I could be fruitful. Try box coupling in your search term.
 
I know I have a exploded view of the box coupling with rebuild instructions here somewhere. After well over an hour of searching I haven't found it :(
I think I got it from the single vendor of rebuild kits that included this info. It may be on actual paper and ink rather than data which would explain why I didn't find it in digital archives.
Sorry I couldn't be fruitful. Try box coupling in your search term.
 
Thank you for the "leg work" .FABO is the best for research. It would have taken me days. or even weeks to obtain these answers just a few years ago!! This site has proven to be a crucial tool throughout my current project!
 
This help?

Coupler.jpg
 
Here's a tip... If you haven't really screwed up the box cap, try to reuse it. The replacement is extremely agravaiting to install so it stays put. Factory used similar to bottle caping to seal the box. Others will have input on how they crimp seal the box using the new lid. Happy moparing
 
I'm partially highjacking. Where can you get e rebuild kit for these? Are some better thank others?
 
The one that I bought was from eBay. It was a pretty good fit. The rubber thing is red instead of black. It came with everything needed except directions, but the ones posted here are excellent. You have to knock out the pin in order to put the new rubber piece on.
My old retainer cap was bent to hell, so I had no choice other then to use the new one supplied in the kit. It was somewhat of a pain in the nuts to crimp into place, but with a little patience, and some needle nose pliers;it worked out well. The red rubber does not look bad either! Here is the link to the eBay store where I purchased the ''''steering repair kit" copy, and paste this link, http://stores.ebay.com/Vans-Auto-Salvage-LLC and type "steering repair" in the search box
 
Thanks. I actually went to the Dodge dealership and ordered one, $13.85. It should be here on Monday. I am not looking forward to knocking out the pin.
 
If that cross pin doesn't show wear dont attempt to knock it out. Stretch the rubber seal over it.
 
Okay. I'm assuming getting the pin out would have been the easy part. Back in with a new one is probably the pain.
 
country_ck said:
Okay. I'm assuming getting the pin out would have been the easy part. Back in with a new one is probably the pain.
Click to expand...

Actually , If you dont have a press you may not get it out. A very big hammer will require several blows and a drift pin will be needed. It will be tight all the way through. Then the new pin must be perfectly centered.
Good luck with it. Don't forget the safety glasses.
 
Yes, a BFW helps to drive the pin out. I found that water pump pliers are great for squeezing the tabs on the cap to lock it on. I believe Richard Ehrenberg (Mopar Action) used to sell a kit on Ebay that came with instructions. I bought one a number of years ago.
 
D:\Ben's Documents through 04-14-09\Technical Service Bulletin.htm
LOL I found the rebuild instructions. Dont know how to share it.

- 1 - After a steering column has been removed, reconditioned or disturbed due to service performed on the steering column or adjacent vehicle components, certain precautions must be observed when installing the column or servicing the steering shaft coupling.

FIGURE 1: STEERING SHAFT COUPLING DISASSEMBLED

ASSEMBLY OF STEERING SHAFT COUPLING (Figures 1 & 2)
The grease recommended for use during assembly procedure is automotive multi-purpose grease NLGI grade 2 E.P. or multi-mileage lubricant, Part Number 2525035.

1. Fill coupling body to 1/2" from top.

2. Place seal cover and seal on steering shaft.

3. Press the shoe pin into the steering shaft so that it projects an equal distance on each side of the steering shaft.

4. Place spring on side of shaft, straddling the shoe pin.

5. Place shoes on pin ends, flat side of shoes to be toward spring engaging tangs on spring.

6. Squeeze shoes together, compressing spring and push assembly into coupling body. (figure 2)

7. If body has dowel pin hole near cover, drive in a new pin P/N 9431620 flush to the outer surface. 8. Position seal and cover on the body and crimp cover tangs over projections on body securely.

figure 2.JPG
 
Redfish, once again you have saved the day! You have a wealth of knowledge my friend!
 
can you supply the part number for the kit you ordered from dodge...much thanks..j
 
i see this is a very old thread...but does anyone know, what the purpose of the steering coupler is (other than connecting the steer gear to the steering wheel) ? Is there some kind of break away in there so if you get in a wreck it doesn't break your arm if you hand gets caught in the spokes of the steering wheel? I am thinking about changing to a borgeson, but i would like to understand its purpose first. I have hooker headers and the guy i bought it from took a grinder to the original coupler to make clearance, and now the dust gasket shield doesn't stay on any more.
 
70dart65coronet said:
i see this is a very old thread...but does anyone know, what the purpose of the steering coupler is (other than connecting the steer gear to the steering wheel) ? Is there some kind of break away in there so if you get in a wreck it doesn't break your arm if you hand gets caught in the spokes of the steering wheel? I am thinking about changing to a borgeson, but i would like to understand its purpose first. I have hooker headers and the guy i bought it from took a grinder to the original coupler to make clearance, and now the dust gasket shield doesn't stay on any more.
Click to expand...
The box coupling has lengthwise travel/movement inside for 2 reasons. Mostly because unibodies flex. Allows for wider build tolerances too.
The collapsible column shaft is 2 pieces, one slid inside the other with plastic sheer pins holding it together. Those should only sheer in collision. Without the box couplings movement those sheer pins would wear to eventual sheer.
As for a sheer point in wheel rotation... nope. No matter how bad one is wrecked, the steering wheel still would steer the front wheels as much as body damage, etc.., will allow.
 
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