Steering wiggles

-

drewmac

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2012
Messages
363
Reaction score
63
Location
Lacey, Wa
I just finalized my conversion to BBP front discs and rear end parts and I am having an issue with the manual steering. Going straight no issues but once I turn for lets say the first inch of steering wheel travel there is a wobble in the steering. Once I get past that initial inch or so the wobble goes away. According to the alignment shop we are good there. It has tubular upper a-arms instead of stock. Other than that it is stock '73 stuff on a 67 cuda. Lower bushings seem ok but will be replaced next winter for upgraded rubber ones. Anyone seen this before?
 
First thing that comes to mind is the 3 bolts holding the steering gear on the K member. Those will work loose.
 
I just finalized my conversion to BBP front discs and rear end parts and I am having an issue with the manual steering. Going straight no issues but once I turn for lets say the first inch of steering wheel travel there is a wobble in the steering. Once I get past that initial inch or so the wobble goes away. According to the alignment shop we are good there. It has tubular upper a-arms instead of stock. Other than that it is stock '73 stuff on a 67 cuda. Lower bushings seem ok but will be replaced next winter for upgraded rubber ones. Anyone seen this before?

Tires. (probably just one)

Put it up in the air and spin the tire (might have to pull the caliper or back the pads off)
What you would be looking for is Uneven tread surface from say, the inner and outer surfaces of the tread.
Tread separation is way more comon than most people think.
Obviously, notice if a rim wobbles at the same time.
 
I'll check the steering bolts asap. These are brand new tires (less than 250 miles) and it has done the same thing with 2 sets of rims (15x7's rubbed at full lock in reverse, went to a 15x6 and it only rubs barely on one side now) Could the manual box be worn and the tires are not turning at the same rate? Box has not been rebuilt as far as I know and the car has 87k on it. I may go with a PS set up all new in the winter. I will still check the tires for odd wear though too.
 
I'll check the steering bolts asap. These are brand new tires (less than 250 miles) and it has done the same thing with 2 sets of rims (15x7's rubbed at full lock in reverse, went to a 15x6 and it only rubs barely on one side now) Could the manual box be worn and the tires are not turning at the same rate? Box has not been rebuilt as far as I know and the car has 87k on it. I may go with a PS set up all new in the winter. I will still check the tires for odd wear though too.

For the first red sentence, So :), seen it brand new, and even within a day of being put on.
Big O tires for example are notorious for not being round or flat across the tread brand new.

Second sentence, No, as the tierods and those related parts handle syncronization of the tires not the steering box.
I suppose it could be a bad ball joint or tiedrod end but usually only if the tire isn't round on top of it all.
 
Thanks Trail beast. The ball joints are new but the steering joints are not so I will check them. I drive it once a week (summer only). Can a flat spot develop in that short a period (they are BFG Radial T/A's so I think the quality of the tires are good)
 
Thanks Trail beast. The ball joints are new but the steering joints are not so I will check them. I drive it once a week (summer only). Can a flat spot develop in that short a period (they are BFG Radial T/A's so I think the quality of the tires are good)

Anything can happen in any amount of time, BFG's are a bit farther up the quality list but it does not mean I would ignore them because they are.
Once a week driving absolutely can make a flat spot, but they go away after just a short bit of driving.
As a matter of curiosity have you gotten them good and warm (drive for 1/2) and see if it still does it?
This could easily even be an alignment issue, but we gotta start somewhere.
 
Good call. I'll take it for an hour drive up to Mt. Ranier and see what we get.
 
PS. Where are you at in AZ. I get to the Phoenix area several times per year.
 
PS. Where are you at in AZ. I get to the Phoenix area several times per year.

I'm just outside of Prescott a few miles in Prescott Valley.
If you go by on I40 it would be about a 25 mile detour.

I have a crapload of relatives on my Mom's side in Washington and Idaho, and have been up there a couple of times.
 
I'll up the ante on the steering box bolts. Definitely check to make sure the bolts are tight, but you'll want to check to make sure the steering box mount itself isn't moving on the K member. The steering box mount on my Duster was actually cracked in the middle from the welds being broken on the front brace. When the steering wheel was turned, the entire steering box was rocking back and forth, separating part of the steering box mount from the k frame. Based on what I've seen of the welds on some of the K members on these cars I'd guess it happens occasionally.

Check to make sure the bolts are tight, then have someone else turn the wheel back and forth while you look at the steering box. If the steering box moves at all, you'll have to look at the welds on the K frame. I've been seam welding and reinforcing my K-frames. Helps with handling, but part of the process is reinforcing the steering box mount and going over the factory welds as well.
 
-
Back
Top