Stick down sound proofing ,Insulation?

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anyone tried the stuff from Eastwood? - it has butyl rubber and sticks like crazy - it would never be easily removable from what I see...but maybe they are all this way?? I got some but am hesitant to use it on the rear floor with heat and possible smell - should I be? would be tough to get out...
 
Dave NEO said:
anyone tried the stuff from Eastwood? - it has butyl rubber and sticks like crazy - it would never be easily removable from what I see...but maybe they are all this way?? I got some but am hesitant to use it on the rear floor with heat and possible smell - should I be? would be tough to get out...
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Eastwood usually has pretty good stuff for us enthusiasts. Perhaps put a small piece on some scrap metal and warm it up with a heat gun and see if it has an objectionable odor?
 
I dont know of any mopar products that has hotter floor boards then an older C3 body Corvette because of the fiberglass floors and the exhaust running under them. On mine I used the Lizard skin and sprayed the interior side of the floor boards with 2 coats. The reduction in floor heat was unbelievable and the sound deadening was very good as well. They also make a special sound deadening lizard skin but I didnt need to use that on top. There is no smell and its not bulky when installing the carpets.
Rod
 
66Dvert said:
The charger I did was done from firewall to tail lights Roof and doors. The trunk lid was not done,but should have been sprayed before paint). Lizard skin is a ceramic style paint we used for heat control. "microballs" were added to help in sound control that was not included in the heat control lizard skin kit(they were in the older version of the sound control kit , but call to make sure they still are.). They do make 2 distinct products one for heat and one for sound. If I could do it again I'd shoot heat control(ceramic spray) in the cabin of the car and then go over it all firewall to tail lights,roof and doors with their sound control (water based high-grade acrylic binder with sound-damping particles). but your talking big dollars for that kind of result. much more than what my 66 dart is worth. now my other challenger just might get that treatment.
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Note on asphalt vs butyl products. The asphalt based products (creosote smell) are not good for your health. The aluminum backing does effectively encapsulate it though, especially if you use the aluminum tape on the seams. Butyl is safer in that respect, you won't be exposed to the asphalt material during installation. That all said, if you put it down in a well ventilated space and seal it with the tape, should be no problem.

The only worry that I would have with off brands is if using on a roof and if it sticks well. Other than that, on a floor pan, most should work fine.

Brian (chemist)
 
Abodysrule said:
Note on asphalt vs butyl products. The asphalt based products (creosote smell) are not good for your health. The aluminum backing does effectively encapsulate it though, especially if you use the aluminum tape on the seams. Butyl is safer in that respect, you won't be exposed to the asphalt material during installation. That all said, if you put it down in a well ventilated space and seal it with the tape, should be no problem.

The only worry that I would have with off brands is if using on a roof and if it sticks well. Other than that, on a floor pan, most should work fine.

Brian (chemist)
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And, yes, Dynamat is way overpriced, but if it's your first time and your unsure of the quality differences, the you might play it safe and pay too much...don't ask me how I know that....

That's how they leverage their name, fear of the unknown. Wonderful to have other users on the forum provide their input and experience with other products, save a lot of folks some bucks.

b
 
I'm going to wait 'till I drive this a car again on a warm day and see how hot rear floor gets -dual mufflers are right there. I stuck some of the mat on a piece of plywood and laid on top of my kerosene heater - as it heated up the butyl rubber got pretty gooey...have to say no odor to it though: If floor get s super hot I might forego the mat there.
 
Dave NEO said:
I'm going to wait 'till I drive this a car again on a warm day and see how hot rear floor gets -dual mufflers are right there. I stuck some of the mat on a piece of plywood and laid on top of my kerosene heater - as it heated up the butyl rubber got pretty gooey...have to say no odor to it though: If floor get s super hot I might forego the mat there.
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Interesting. Did the mat seem to block the heat at all? Did it solidify again after it cooled down?
 
uh..I'd say no to that stuff for your intended use - it's for use under wood laminate flooring - having laid a lot of floors, I can tell you it's not what you want but you definitely get an A for creativity!
 
All the peel n stick stuff is pretty heavy.

If you want something lightweight and is a proven thermal and acoustic insulator? Look into 3M Thinsulate.
I've used it in several commercial and retail products for both thermal and noise insulator and it works great.
So when looking for a lightweight alternative, it was the natural choice.

I got 4 yards of 60" 3M® Thinsulate UDS Insulation @ $9/ linear yard.
There's many different varieties of Thinsulate but I think the UDS 157 gram offered the best R-value/mass/thickness

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