Still hard starting

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Here is the gasket I purchased.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-9266/

It is starting to sound like an issue that really can't be fixed. It's not that big of a deal. But can be annoying at times. I have read that todays fuel is different than gas thirty years ago. I'll still try "dano" idea about taking the gas cap off after a drive. Worth a shot. As far as cylinder pressure readings I don't have the tools so I am not sure what they are. If I go to get gas, pump, walk in and pay come out to start it almost always fires up. It's just after a period of time like 10 minutes or more. The car runs great. I was just expecting a lot from the heat gasket I guess. If I don't find a solution i'll just do as "MOPEkidD-3" suggested for when starting and go from there. I'll keep this post updated. I usually take the car out on weekends and i'll see what my findings are.

Thanks again everyone.
 
I think it ultimately comes down to the Edelbrock carbs easily heat soaking and vaporizing the fuel, if the cars sits long enough. Mine does it as well, even with a functioning hood scoop and 1/8" gasket. These alluminum carbs do not rid of the heat too well, thus causing warm starting that isnt as effortless as it is when cold. A phoenolic spacer, or deflector sheild of some kind would do a lot to keep the carb away from some of the heat.

It seems to be worse when these carbs are used on iron intakes, such as stock 340 intakes, as they seem to hold heat and transfer it to the carb.
 
Im not sure if by gasket you are all referring to spacer? or not.
But on all my carbed cars I go spend the $20.00 on a carb spacer.

You can get the with the removable centers for open bore or for the quad hole bore..ones for better low end torque and one for more top end.
Either way,it helps vaporise the fuel a little better and the way the spacers are tapered on the center section,it directs the fuel into the center of the intake rather then dump it down the sides.
Plus the carb is up off the intake a good inch higher and does not hold nearly as much heat.

I do this more so with my edelbrocks because of there design (low profile and the hole carb hugs low on the intake,where as a holley stands up a bit and bowls are front and rear and lifted up away from the intake) I just think holley's are a little better at avoiding the heat compared to an eddy. But anyway.
I wasn't sure if that was what you meant and if not than maybe you should think about getting one with as cheap as they are.
And there is a slight noticeable difference in horse power as well.
You can pick them up at most auto parts stores.

Good luck!
 
ether this car has an orange box on it or gas is running in after shut down.can you see like a white vapor cam up out of carb after shutting it off.after it warms up try holding throttle open half way to start.it sounds like its about half flooded.if that helps back the floats down.
 
I do have the mp orange box ignition. I have never noticed a white vapor exiting the caarb after shut down. But then again I have never looked for something like that.

I always thought spacers were a great cheap way to add power. Only thing is I wouldn't be able to shut my hood with my air cleaner set up. It's extremely close as is with the .320 gasket.
 
7duster4 said:
I do have the mp orange box ignition. I have never noticed a white vapor exiting the caarb after shut down. But then again I have never looked for something like that.

I always thought spacers were a great cheap way to add power. Only thing is I wouldn't be able to shut my hood with my air cleaner set up. It's extremely close as is with the .320 gasket.
Click to expand...


I have also ran into that before and I found a good fix being the edelbrock triangle shaped mesh air cleaner...there low slung and fit under the hood pretty good. Or you can get a number of many other more expensive low profile filters. good luck
 
IgotDUST said:
I have also ran into that before and I found a good fix being the edelbrock triangle shaped mesh air cleaner...there low slung and fit under the hood pretty good. Or you can get a number of many other more expensive low profile filters. good luck
Click to expand...

Those ones don't flow nearly as well as a normal "cylindrical" air cleaner though... You could try a drop base for your current air cleaner, if you don't already have one.
 
Or?

hood.JPG
 
MOPEkidD-3 said:
Those ones don't flow nearly as well as a normal "cylindrical" air cleaner though... You could try a drop base for your current air cleaner, if you don't already have one.
Click to expand...


I have never had any problems flow wise,although they may be a bit smaller then a round style.
They are full open so they grab just as much if not more air I would say.
A good point was just made..you could always go cowl hood (if you have that kind of cash sitting around)

I honestly think there is a simple solution to your problem.
I doubt its un fixable unless it just a plain wore out engine with wore out parts.
It is more likely a matter of doing a good tune up and getting all the ducks in a row and make sure everything is as it should be and all parts are working as they should and all parts are equally matched to one another.

Either way, Good luck with it and make sure to put your questions out there on fabo.. The is alot of knowledgeable people on here that can give you some good advice!
 
IgotDUST said:
I have never had any problems flow wise,although they may be a bit smaller then a round style.
They are full open so they grab just as much if not more air I would say.
A good point was just made..you could always go cowl hood (if you have that kind of cash sitting around)

I honestly think there is a simple solution to your problem.
I doubt its un fixable unless it just a plain wore out engine with wore out parts.
It is more likely a matter of doing a good tune up and getting all the ducks in a row and make sure everything is as it should be and all parts are working as they should and all parts are equally matched to one another.

Either way, Good luck with it and make sure to put your questions out there on fabo.. The is alot of knowledgeable people on here that can give you some good advice!
Click to expand...

I guess what matters more is the size... If he gets one about a foot long on each side I think that would work.
 
I tried the gas cap test. I removed it after a drive to try and hear a venting sound but got nothing. Sounds like this is something Im going to have to live with. Could be worse I guess. Lately I have been putting the pedal about halfway down while cranking and fires right up. I was going to try and mess with the choke a little. Seems like a takes a tad too long to warm up before taking it out for a drive. Which way does the black cylinder on the carb turn to do this? Do I want lean or rich and which way do I turn the wheel?

Thanks again everyone
 
I think if you want more choke, you need it to be rich. On the gas tank venting, drive the car for a while, shut it off, get out and pull the gas cap listening for a vacuum sucking like sound.
 
My 318 has the same carb and does the same thing with the Wiend Stealth intake and has done it since it went back together new cam ,heads ,carb, intake ,double roller timing chain, electronic conversion with the Chrome box ,it is a heat soak issue but I also have a tight hood to air cleaner and am waiting for a small enough spacer to show up on the shelf { not worried enough to order special the off the shelf ones go on sale for half price twice a year I just have to get there while they still have a 1/4 or 1/2 inch one in stock} I checked the book and they go down to a 1/4 inch for the phenolic plastic ones which is what you need to fix this problem.
 
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