Stock 1989 318 w/ 48k Miles - Rebuild Recommendations

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Before you get too carried away, make sure that the engine will accept the AX-15 input shaft.

While it's true that the 9.2Scr 5.2M will tolerate a cam change better than an older 8.0 Scr 318LA; in a heavy truck, with a manual trans, you cannot really afford to have a soft bottom end. So the advice here is to think about it first;
If the heads come off I would measure everything to get an exact Scr.
If the heads stay on, I would cc the assembled chamber by measuring the volume using a thick oil, with the engine suitably positioned with a sparkplug hole set to be the highpoint. This will come in handy to know, when it comes time for a camchange.
 
QUOTE="Mattax, post: 1973419549, member: 29156"] Is '91 still a copper and brass radiator? If so, use a coolant with conventional inorganic inhbitors , not universal which are HOAT.[/QUOTE]

I just picked up a used 4yr old replacement radiator from a junkyard D150. No copper or brass in this one. My old radiator was, but it is caked with brown junk.

Thanks guys for explaining the difference between the two sealants.

Just want to make sure I have this planned out right:
- add coolant flush and let it sit overnight
- remove block drain plugs 24hr later
- drain and flush block
- remove timing cover
- remove freeze plugs and other oil galley plugs
- check for coolant sediment
- remove oil pan drain plug (helps funnel diesel fuel into an approved container
- remove valve covers
- remove intake manifold
- pour diesel fuel over exposed rockers and valvetrain area
- replace valve seals
- wipe lifter valley with microfiber towels soaked in diesel fuel
- pour diesel fuel over lifters
- should I carefully remove each lifter and apply some assembly lube to the roller surface? I plan on priming the oil pump anyway so this might be overkill.
- install new freeze plugs
- remove oil pan
- install intake manifold
- install valve covers (help keep garage dust out of the engine)
- clean timing area /install new double roller timing kit
- clean oil pickup tube and install new oil pump
- button up the 318 with everything but new head gaskets.

Or does everyone mean just put some diesel fuel in the oil, run for 10mins to flush the engine, and drain everything out? Just trying to get everything figured out. Frame is being stripped next weekend and painted within 2 weekends. After that I am working on the motor.
 
Thanks AJ. Yeah, that is the only part I am worried about since it's a lighter duty trans. I pulled it from a 3.9L dakota so the bellhousing and input shaft will work. I'll just need to get a pilot bearing. Thankfully this is something I am more familiar with since I just went from auto to manual in my 03 Dakota.
 
I use a harbor freight 6 dollar bug sprayer. Use it once and it's done, throw it away. But you'll get about three gallons of diesel through it before it dies. With the valve covers, intake, and oil pan off, put a BIG drip pan under it. Turn each cylinder bank up vertical and spray out the heads towards the valley, then in the valley, and then up from underneath into the crankcase.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
I use a harbor freight 6 dollar bug sprayer. Use it once and it's done, throw it away. But you'll get about three gallons of diesel through it before it dies. With the valve covers, intake, and oil pan off, put a BIG drip pan under it. Turn each cylinder bank up vertical and spray out the heads towards the valley, then in the valley, and then up from underneath into the crankcase.
Click to expand...

This is what I have been searching for. Thanks for typing it up. I have one of those concrete mixing trays from HD so that should be good enough. Thanks again.
 
Your welcome! It's definitely full ventilation or preferably outside work to keep the fumes below explosive levels. Tilting the cylinder banks to vertical from one side and then another also helps with rinsing the crankcase. We've flushed several engines like this and then ran them on SAE 30 Shell Rotella T1 off road tractor oil, a Purolator filter and a bottle of Rislone after reassembly with no problems. One 318 magnum even had 500 miles of service with about 100 miles of that in heavy towing before the first oil change. It's still going strong at least a year later with mostly heavy scrap metal towing use.
 
Looks like I will be getting the ebay ones above. I wasn't going to pull the heads but I found some debris in two the intake runners. Looks like dirt from sitting in storage for so many years.
 
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