I would like to know if anyone has fit this i take and dual center squirter holleys under a factory 72 Dart hood. Thanks I searched but couldn't find any thread related let alone the thread that I saw with a blue Dart with on years ago.
STR12 edelbrock crossram fitment
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gzig5
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Maybe @str12-340 can help?
So here's some pictures of my STR-12 equipped 340, in my 1970 Dart. It took some careful selection of air cleaners and some careful modification, but it all fits and has been no problem. It was installed in 2005 and I've put about 20,000 miles on it. I remember people telling me that I'd never be able to drive that intake on the street. I am running dual Edelbrock AFB type 500 cfm carbs and don't know the relative height compared to the holleys, but should be easy to figure out. These air cleaners are easy to find. I had to have the air horn on the bottom plate milled down enough to drop the air cleaner and clear the hood, without being so far down that the base plate would interfere with stuff on top of the carb (third photo down). The filter elements can't be high, so I went with big oval air cleaners to give enough surface area not to restrict flow through the filters. Remember each air cleaner only has to deal with half the flow in the engine.
I will make one big suggestion. These intakes were known to puddle gas in a couple places in the BIG plenum and then have a backfire that can crack the thin cast top. Direct Connection did a lot of development and testing on this intake back in the day and the Direct Connection Engine book has recommended simple modifications to the inside of the manifold, all clearly laid out and diagrammed. MAKE THOSE MODIFICATIONS!!!. Among other things it changes airflow and evacuates the areas subject to puddling. This was enough of an issue back in the day that I have seen one way valves installed in the STR-12 top plate on race cars so that if there is a backfire it will relieve the pressure and keep the top from cracking.
If you are needing an automatic kick down mechanism, let me know as it took a few tries to get this right and I can save you some headaches.
If you go with this kind of air cleaner let me know as I think I have some extra stickers knocking around
I will make one big suggestion. These intakes were known to puddle gas in a couple places in the BIG plenum and then have a backfire that can crack the thin cast top. Direct Connection did a lot of development and testing on this intake back in the day and the Direct Connection Engine book has recommended simple modifications to the inside of the manifold, all clearly laid out and diagrammed. MAKE THOSE MODIFICATIONS!!!. Among other things it changes airflow and evacuates the areas subject to puddling. This was enough of an issue back in the day that I have seen one way valves installed in the STR-12 top plate on race cars so that if there is a backfire it will relieve the pressure and keep the top from cracking.
If you are needing an automatic kick down mechanism, let me know as it took a few tries to get this right and I can save you some headaches.
If you go with this kind of air cleaner let me know as I think I have some extra stickers knocking around
Oh yeah, plate gaskets. I have seen them offered on eBay (search Edelbrock STR-12) not long ago, or you can do as I did and buy sheet gasket material lay it on the top plate and tap around the outside of the top plate to leave an inner and outer impression and then cut it out. You could even put the sheet gasket material on the intake, make holes for the bolts, bolt it together and cut around the perimeter with a razor knife, and then figure out the inside cut out.
By the way if I can be of any further help, don't hesitate to reach out. I love to see these intakes survive in use.
By the way if I can be of any further help, don't hesitate to reach out. I love to see these intakes survive in use.
Too bad A&A doesn't re-pop that intake manifold. It looks wicked!
I've always admired your setup. Nice to read some details. That's a smart installation. You paid a lot of attention to detail.
Best 2 parts: it's a hoot to drive, and I never get over watching people's faces when I open the hood!
Now I've got this D-66 in line dual quad manifold for a 318...
There have been at least two attempts to get Edelbrock to make a run by people on FABO, but no luck. Our AMC bretheren got enough pre-orders together that Edelbrock made a run of their version of the STR (Street Tunnel Ram) intake (STR-9???). They could sell a run of these for $1000 a pop or more. I bought a new one at Carlisle 10 years and thought I got a raging deal when I talked the owner down from $1500 to $1300 on Sunday morning and that was 10 years ago. I've seen them for sale for as much as $3000.
I bet it is a lot of fun!Best 2 parts: it's a hoot to drive, and I never get over watching people's faces when I open the hood!
Now I've got this D-66 in line dual quad manifold for a 318...
Do you have any idea how many unit units are necessary for the manufacturer to make a run?
This is from memory, but I think that the AMC run required 500 prepaid orders and the run was probably more than that. Like the sales through Direct Connection you could order a complete kit from AMC's "Group 9" to put dual quads on your 390, installed at the dealership.
NC Engine Builder
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I believe edelbrock has stated that the core boxes went missing decades ago and they have zero intention of ever remaking. I have one on a 410 stroker, that I initially used the dual 4 barrel fitech EFI on, but later I switched to dual quick fuel 450s. Runs great, and I didnt bother with the internal mods, I have never had any issues with backfires or anything like that.
I’ll bet that SOB sounds nasty with 8bbls opening up in the midrange!
matthon
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Where did the fuel line connector and fittings come from?
When I had carbs on my tunnel ram I hated the splitter I had, although it worked, I think it was a chebby deal.
Don't need it now, just curious.
Also, your detailed response was fantastic to read, pure hot rodding helpful enthusiasm.
The 'Y' fitting is from an aftermarket source that I don't remember but it is pretty simple (probably from Summit or Jegs). The fittings from the banjo at the carb are an off brand version of the one Edelbrock offers that I found on Summit Racing. The line up from the fuel pump is a stainless steel original repop (FineLines???). I bent the stainless lines that tied it all together just, a bit at a time (don't overdo it and then try to back up).
If you really want to try this let me know and I'll take some better pics and try to find if I have records for the parts.
If you really want to try this let me know and I'll take some better pics and try to find if I have records for the parts.
Wow! I missed a lot of replies! I was traveling and just got back. Sorry about that.
I just bought one that has been either blown or backfired through. Nothing I'm afraid of fixing but i had completely forgotten about fitment! I remember seeing some of you pictures in a thread that I found and I guess it made me think, it'll be fine. Lol.
I will be repairing the lid and will be most likely using 660 center squirter Holleys on it. So ill have to figure out the height difference. I have access to both types of carbs so shouldn't be a problem.
Its late, I'll read tomorrow/ today now, and reply with more info on my plans with the engine. Thanks man!
Here's a pic of the day I bought the car and more recent pic.
I would suggest you set the 660’s on the shelf or sell them to an old guy and use the money to buy two nice 650 double pumpers.
You’ll make at least the same power and the car will drive far far better.
If you are going to fix the top, you might consider some ribs on the bottom to strengthen the top. The cast top ain't very thick and it's just cast aluminum with the weight of the carbs,etc. sitting on it too. My system has a CNC milled top from aluminum billet. I got it at the Nats 20 years ago and it was the last of 20 a machine shop made. If there were enough folks that wanted one of these I'd be glad to remove the lid over the winter and give it to a shop with CNC capabilities to make a run. It would be a LOT easier to do it copying an existing billet top than copying a cast top.
gold66cuda
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I would be down for one Mike.
gzig5
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I'm interested as well. And while you have the top off, I'd like to get some dimensions and pictures from the interior. I've lusted after one of these intakes for a long time but am unlikely to find one in my budget. BUT, I have a bunch of aluminum plate, MIG/TIG welders, milling machine and lathe, and I'm retired. So once I get the car back together and running, I'm going to take a swing at fabricating an approximation of the STR 12.
matthon
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An STR 12 is not in my future, just curious if anyone has made the hood scoops functional?
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