stripe install help

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dartman 440

dartman 440

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going to try and install the rear stripe on my dart, never have installed stripes before . so on that note could anyone give me some feedback on wet or dry , if wet what solution do you use ? i know i have seen some application solution on some sites , but do i need it ? what have you used ? please any help would be greatly appreciated . thanks again ed aka dartman 440
 
Watch some youtube videos. Don't even try it without a spray bottle with some dishsoap and water. use masking tape to gauge where you want it positioned. and use a squeegee...and any air bubble can be popped with a pin later.
 
Or Crayola if that is what you have..lol
 
Get a spray bottle and put one or two drops of liquid dish soap in it, and then fill it with water (Dawn, Palmolive, etc).

Your sheet metal should be between 50° and 90° F.

Your stickers should also be between 50° and 90° F.

You MUST have a clean surface before you install the stripe - no wax on the paint.

Then spray the soap water solution on the body panel and then place the sticker on. The water will help you be able to place it better.


Once you have it in place, use a flat "paddle" scraper (like used to apply bondo) and start in the center and squeegee the water out.

If you get any bubbles in the stripes after you squeegee the water out with the bondo scraper, use a pin and prick a small hole in the bubble and use the bondo scraper to get the water out and remove the bubble as best you can.

.
That is how they are installed at the factory.
 
I recently installed the stripe around the back of my dart .. I wish someone would have told me that there will be lots of little tiny bubbles that you can't get out.. but they will go away over the course of a week or two. The big bubbles - yeah, you'll want to work those out.. but the tiny ones - don't risk stretching the vinyl trying to squeegee them to the edge and get the water out.. they'll vanish.

Good luck
 






Stripe Kit Installation Instructions


1- Make sure the car is clean. Make sure you are not doing this in a windy area. If your car was recently waxed, you may need to “kill” the wax before installing your stripes. You can do this by wiping the area where you are going to be installing the stripes with rubbing alcohol.

2 - Get a spray bottle & fill it with water, 6-10 drops of dishwashing liquid, and about a capful of rubbing alcohol.

3 - You should layout the entire side of the car first using masking tape or magnets to hold the stripes in place. Take a few steps back and make sure everything is lined up.

4 - Starting with the door, lay the stripe out flat and gently peel away the backing paper (this is the heavy wax coated paper that is on the adhesive side). Spray the back of the stripe with your soapy water solution and then spray the body panel as well.

5 - Place the stripe on the body panel. The soapy water allows you to move it around until you get it in the right spot. It also helps you work out any bubbles in the material.

6- Starting in the middle, gently press down on the stripe using a squeegee (I think I put one in the box for you - if I didn't a fresh bondo spreader works well too). If the stripe moves as you are pressing down, gently lift it up and re-spray (be careful though - the smaller stripes tend to stretch when you do this)

7- Work as much of the moisture out as you can. Now WAIT and move on before you try peeling off the transfer tape

8- Go to the next body panel and repeat this procedure
[FONT=&quot]
9- You should wait at least an hour before trying to remove the transfer tape. It will take longer if it is cold. If you want to speed it up a little, you can use a heat gun on its lowest setting. When you have removed the transfer tape, gently wrap the excess into the door jambs. If they are stubborn and do not want to stick, use the heat gun (again at lowest setting).

[/FONT]
 
The other thing to know -- which is important - do NOT allow the waxy backing paper to get wet at all ... it will tear as you're trying to remove it, leaving chunks of the backing paper on the adhesive side of the vinyl, which is a PAIN to get off.. do not allow a single drop of water to get on this paper when it's still on the vinyl.
 
challengergary said:






Stripe Kit Installation Instructions


1- Make sure the car is clean. Make sure you are not doing this in a windy area. If your car was recently waxed, you may need to “kill” the wax before installing your stripes. You can do this by wiping the area where you are going to be installing the stripes with rubbing alcohol.

2 - Get a spray bottle & fill it with water, 6-10 drops of dishwashing liquid, and about a capful of rubbing alcohol.

3 - You should layout the entire side of the car first using masking tape or magnets to hold the stripes in place. Take a few steps back and make sure everything is lined up.

4 - Starting with the door, lay the stripe out flat and gently peel away the backing paper (this is the heavy wax coated paper that is on the adhesive side). Spray the back of the stripe with your soapy water solution and then spray the body panel as well.

5 - Place the stripe on the body panel. The soapy water allows you to move it around until you get it in the right spot. It also helps you work out any bubbles in the material.

6- Starting in the middle, gently press down on the stripe using a squeegee (I think I put one in the box for you - if I didn't a fresh bondo spreader works well too). If the stripe moves as you are pressing down, gently lift it up and re-spray (be careful though - the smaller stripes tend to stretch when you do this)

7- Work as much of the moisture out as you can. Now WAIT and move on before you try peeling off the transfer tape

8- Go to the next body panel and repeat this procedure
[FONT=&quot]
9- You should wait at least an hour before trying to remove the transfer tape. It will take longer if it is cold. If you want to speed it up a little, you can use a heat gun on its lowest setting. When you have removed the transfer tape, gently wrap the excess into the door jambs. If they are stubborn and do not want to stick, use the heat gun (again at lowest setting).

[/FONT]
Click to expand...

Funny, those are word for word what it say to do in the stripes I bought from you!
 
Cal_gecko said:
The other thing to know -- which is important - do NOT allow the waxy backing paper to get wet at all ... it will tear as you're trying to remove it, leaving chunks of the backing paper on the adhesive side of the vinyl, which is a PAIN to get off.. do not allow a single drop of water to get on this paper when it's still on the vinyl.
Click to expand...
Excellent advise!
 
http://phoenixgraphix.com/detail.php
We recommend our application gel. This product was developed by a chemist for us many years ago and tested here in the AZ desert. The gel gives you a longer application time and allows you to slide the decal around for more accurate fit than dishwashing soap.
One very important issue that needs addressing is the fact that the decal should be applied in temperatures ranging from 70-90 degrees. The decals should be applied indoors/shade for best results.
 
For $10 for only 4 oz of the application gel is sorta expensive when you can use 2-3 drops of dish soap which is a regular household item. That is how the car factories to it.
 
PhoenixGraphix said:
http://phoenixgraphix.com/detail.php
We recommend our application gel. This product was developed by a chemist for us many years ago and tested here in the AZ desert. The gel gives you a longer application time and allows you to slide the decal around for more accurate fit than dishwashing soap.
One very important issue that needs addressing is the fact that the decal should be applied in temperatures ranging from 70-90 degrees. The decals should be applied indoors/shade for best results.
Click to expand...


I wonder why you tested it "here in the AZ desert" when you recommend installing them indoors. It takes "the desert" out of the equation....


Do you have a premask to help locate the stripes properly when installed? How well does it hold up when wet? There was a comment about the waxy backing paper turning to mush when wet. I hope that is not your product that does that.
 
All backing paper turns to mush when it gets wet no matter what brand of material. It is just a wax coated paper.

The soapy water solution I recommend using is tested in the South Florida sun several times a week whenever I install graphics for a customer LOL
 
so rubbing alcohol to clean the paint prior to the install ? many thanks to all that replied , man when they said ask and you shall receive , i really received thanks again ed aka dartman 440:finga:
 
I understand your confusion When we stated that we have used our application gel here in the desert. We are in a very dry climate here which gives you less install time as everything drys so quickly. The gel gives you more time to position your decal in place. Regarding the dish washing soap method our information/technology in the car industry has advanced and been improved upon from old methods. The gel was developed over years and tested by us before it was put on the market just as our other products. Phoenix Graphix uses a clear premask for most projects but a paper mask will always hurt a decal if soaked no matter what anyone tells you. We have been in business since 1985 are licensed as a restoration manufacturer for Chrysler which means you will receive a quality product. We also have an excellent return policy. WE do not advise anyone to ever put decals on in the sun. This is industry wide knowledge.
 
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