stroker?

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muller

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how does that work?
i still have a 360 block that's 30 over,can i just buy a crank...or do i have to buy crank,rods and pistons????


thnx,
barry
 
You will need it all, crank rods and pistons, buy a kit, then you won't have the problems that piecing it together can cause.
Bruce
 
the rods are standard 360 length.. crank and pistons are whats really needed. but a kit is probably cheaper in the long run.
 
You'll also have to clearance the block.
 
If the bore isn't fresh, you'll have to either hone it to remove any ridge or go .040. Can't throw a different stroke set up in a bore that has had any run time on it.

Crank and pistons are what you need at a minuimum. Factory rods will work, but, by the time you get done with fresh bolts, resize, etc. you may be $ ahead to buy a decent set of aftermarket pieces which are more durable/stonger.
 
[-XDon't do it. All of that torque and wheelspin are annoying. You be wanting to upgrade the rearend , get slicks, and work on your 60' times. Nothing but trouble.
 
The 273, 318, 340, and 360 all use the same length rod. The strokers use the same length rod but have shorter pistons in order to work. The after market rods are lighter and stronger then the factory rods. Like others said get a stroker kit which includes rods, crank, pistons, and usually rings and bearings. That way you'll know all the parts will work together.
 
I built a 408/360 stroker from Mancini and there awesome. All the power of a big-block, but small block weight. Stills revs fast and makes awesome power. You will love it, just do like the other guys said and get the kit.
 
moparsegura said:
I built a 408/360 stroker from Mancini and there awesome. All the power of a big-block, but small block weight. Stills revs fast and makes awesome power. You will love it, just do like the other guys said and get the kit.
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That's something that surprised me. My square-motor 408 still revs very quickly. The diesel-truck amount of torque is great to have.
 
Do yourself a favor (if you can spare the extra bucks) buy a short block already balanced and assembled. You'll save yourself alot of time and misery, and the difference in extra cash you spend will be well worth it. Your WAY ahead of the game !! Most shops give some type of warranty on their workmanship. WAY AHEAD OF THE GAME !!!!!
 
cudacollins said:
Do yourself a favor (if you can spare the extra bucks) buy a short block already balanced and assembled. You'll save yourself alot of time and misery, and the difference in extra cash you spend will be well worth it. Your WAY ahead of the game !! Most shops give some type of warranty on their workmanship. WAY AHEAD OF THE GAME !!!!!
Click to expand...
If you want it done right...

Read what happened to me after having a shop build my shortblock, the block I gave them is now useless and I ended up building it right myself.
 
I just bought a rotating set, if you do thAT MAKE SURE YOU HAVE IT BALANCED. The set I bought is eagle crank,rods and ross pistons. They matched the pistons to my heads so I will have @ 10.2:1 comp. This set comes with bearings and rings. It was only about 1200.00. The guy I bought this from was real good to work with. I bought my flex plate, tourque converter, balancer, carb, oil pan and a couple other things from him he was cheaper than the big guys. Tom
 
Well , I'm just assuming that you will pick a "reputable" shop, and like I said, any "reputable"shop will give you some kind of warranty on their workmanship ! The KEY here is to 1: pick a reputable shop, 2: and buy quality parts ! But if they're a reputable shop, you don't have to worry,it'll be a quality shortblock package. Some shops have more than one package (or short block combination), so depending on what your going to do with the "stroker" motor , (be sure you explain to them what you intend to do with it). And sell your block . Besides, you'll be driving and having alot of fun with it alot faster. Just my opinion. Good luck with whatever you decide.
 
Muller,here are some reputable shops that I've dealt with and bought :stroker" short blocks from without ANY problems whatsoever : Hughes Engineering, Compu-flow and Muscle Motors.
I believe if you stick with one of these shops, (there's other great shops out there also, but these ones I've had experience with) you won't end up like Dust did. I feel for ya Dust, I learned a hard lesson long ago (Something similar to your experience). DO YOUR HOMEWORK !! Stick with the shops that are all mopar , the ones you have seen in your favorite magazines for a while. Just passing along some good information learned from the school of hard knocks.
 
You might want to pick up a copy of the book "How to Build Big-Inch Mopar Small Blocks" by Jim Szilagyi. It'll probably answer most of your questions.
 
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