StrudRod Removal

[1973_Scamp]

I removed 2 bolts and loose up the strud could not get it out...Any help out there would make my day...this strut is on driver side. I would assume passenger side will be the same...Oh it's a 1973 Plymouth Scamp
Thanks,
Scamp

 

[VDART]

you have to release the tension on the torsion bar & then back out the lower control arm.Lawrence

 

[1973_Scamp]

So I got it out and got it back in both passenger and driver side. I did passenger side first. When I wrench the nut in with 45ft. lbs with the new torque wrench. I kept on wrenching without hearing any click. I realize that I over torque due to defective torque wrench. I exchanged the wrench. Loose up over torque nut and front bushing and re-tighten with 45ft. lbs but I end up with the same thread distant as it is over torque. If I compare driver side with passenger side, There is more thread exposed on the passenger side than driver side. So what will happen if I over torque the driver side as well to make both side balance? (recommend or Not)

Thanks,
Scamp

 

[zhandfull]

Those look like 73+ strut rods. I just did some with the replacement Moog bushings. They actually had a steel sleeve that goes through the rubber on the strut rod and yours should to. The sleeve bottoms out on the big washer making it impossible to squeeze one side more than the other. I didn't even torque them just tighten them up till they were tight on mine.

Here is a picture of the old bushings and the sleeve that runs through them. That drawing you have is for an earlier version of a strut rod bushing.

 

[Mad Dart]

Or you can cut them out. They pissed me off so bad I cut mine in half with a die grinding wheel and am using Adjustable ones with the hiem joint. Same with 1 of my torsion bars. The flipping thing would not come out so I buzz cut it.

 

[VDART]

reference for the difference in strut rods-- fine thread vs coarse thread , Lawrence
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=207605