Cuda Al
Well-Known Member
You may have an aftermarket bushing in there, picture might help.
Alan
Alan
Strut between lower control arm and "K" frame?
- Thread starter coalman
- Start date
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cudamark
Well-Known Member
If you have the stock washers and bushings, it shouldn't even take a half hour. If you have the aftermarket bushings and/or need to remove the strut rods, yeah, you'll be spending a few hours doing it. For the stock bushings, it's a real tight fit getting them in with the strut in the hole. Lube everything up real well. Sometimes a hose clamp will help squeeze the bushing a bit to get it started in the k-member hole. Good Luck!
You'll have to drop the lower ball joint stud from the LCA and the lower shock bolt and push the shock up out of the way.
If you don't have a remover tool.. here's a trick. This is showing popping the upper, but just reverse things to do the lower. Nut off, turned around to the smooth side and threaded back onto the stud. Deep socket in place over the uppers nut and something to make up the left over space. Turn the nut as if removing until it's about as tight as you can and then give the LCA mounting area a wack with a 5 lb hammer and the stud should pop loose.
Not in the shop to reference your figure 11, but the shaft that the LCA is mounted on has a nut on the forward side to hold the assembly in place. That nut and washer has to come off and then the LCA/bushing/shaft all come out as an assembly. When you put it all back together do not tighten that nut until the car is sitting at ride height.
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Nut comes off and the entire shaft, bushing and LCA come out the back towards the torsion bar...
I gather the shaft assembly is a one piece unit, which looks like I will have to take the headers loose to get it out. Too bad you can't just knock the strut out of the lower control arm. Thanks for all your help!
You could try taking the nut off the brace strut at the LCA, tap the strut loose and then move the LCA assembly back as far as you have clearance for and you may be able to wiggle the strut forward out of the LCA and then out of the front of the K frame.
Yep they pull in TIGHT. Nut still on at the end of the threads and a good wack to dislodge.
Yes it has to go forward to come out of the LCA after you remove the nut. These are B bodies, but same deal..
cudamark
Well-Known Member
You shouldn't have to do anything with your headers to remove a strut rod. Of course, I haven't seen your headers and what wild design it might have!
You should be able to remove the strut rod front nut, washer, and outer bushing, then remove the rear nut and soak the strut/LCA joint with some penetrating oil. Loosen the torsion bar adjuster, remove the rear torsion bar anchor circlip, and the lower control arm pin nut on the front of the K-member. With a BIG rubber mallet or dead blow hammer, knock the lower control arm and torsion bar to the rear. Tap the strut rod loose from the control arm. There should be enough clearance to now remove the strut rod.
You should be able to remove the strut rod front nut, washer, and outer bushing, then remove the rear nut and soak the strut/LCA joint with some penetrating oil. Loosen the torsion bar adjuster, remove the rear torsion bar anchor circlip, and the lower control arm pin nut on the front of the K-member. With a BIG rubber mallet or dead blow hammer, knock the lower control arm and torsion bar to the rear. Tap the strut rod loose from the control arm. There should be enough clearance to now remove the strut rod.Long tube TTI, they came with the car. I would never have any headers on a car for street use, factory is fine for me. They are just too much of a hassle when you need to get at things in the engine compartment. Thanks for your input, it is a 66 Dart, it has the one piece bushing. I do have everything disassembled. Thanks for your input, I am on break right now!!!!
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