I agree 100%. With the other one.... he just looked like a big meanie
Well if the shoe fits........
Stuck in traffic 340 got up to 220
- Thread starter Richie
- Start date
-
Well if the shoe fits........
Richie
Well-Known Member
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
With a 15# cap about 240 to 245. I would not run straight water though due to corrosion issues. Either run 50/50 coolant or add water soluable oil to the water. This lubes the water pump seal and prevents corrosion.
Howard1784
Well-Known Member
This
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
Wellllll, that is at sea level standard atmospheric conditions. As you go up in altitude there is less weight of air or atmospheric pressure on the water, so it boils at a lower temperature. If you put water in a jam jar with a bit of tube soldered into the lid and put vaccum on it, you can get it to boil at room temperature.
Water is the best heat transfer medium, but freeze protection and increased boiling point are of great benefit. Different chemicals used for antifreeze or heat transfer have different freeze and boiling points. 50/50 mix with water gives the best overall performance. Here on the Canadian prairies where I have experienced -50°C or about -60°F, or in the Arctic where -70°F is possible, 70% ethylene glycol antifreeze is adviseable. This is the maximum freeze protection as after that it can get to "jelling" where it just gets like jelly and will not move through the heater core or radiator. The engine can overheat but the jell in the rad core will not move.
451Charger
Member
First off, don't turn off the car. Parking under the shade, opening the hood and letting it idle will drop the temp faster than turning off the motor. 50/50 coolant with a good rad cap won't boil at 230 Deg F. Your engine is fine,
Bret Tschacher
Well-Known Member
212 at atmospheric pressure.
Bret Tschacher
Well-Known Member
I've heard of the block plugs blowing out at less than that !
Bret Tschacher
Well-Known Member
I used to have a 92 Cheby S10 with a 4.3 L I put almost a 100k on it with no fan at all. It was still in fine running condition when I traded it in on my 91 W350 Cummins powered.
Pete Connors
New Member
I think that's been covered ad nauseum and it's "at sea level" as we're not referring to anything under water.
demonjim
Well-Known Member
I think the fact that Mopar performance engines were shipped with a clutch fan should say volumes about what fan to use, along with the shroud. These engines would run consistently around 180 degrees. Other factors to consider; timing, if it isn't right the engine will run hotter. Water pump, use a pump for an a/c equipped car, they will move more coolant through the system. Obviously this next thing shouldn't relate to your issue, but the whole cooling system should be flushed occasionally, to remove scale that will build up in the water passages. Back flushing would be the preferred method. Just a few things that popped into my head.
From what I understand an a/c water pump requires an a/c pulley.
demonjim
Well-Known Member
Well, an a/c equipt A body had just what I posted for a reason from the factory and of course it's going to bolt up. The pulley size has nothing to do with the bolt pattern.
famous bob
mopar misfit
I QUITE AGREE , BUT THOSE FACTORY SET UPS WERENT DEALING WITH THE H.P. WE ARE GETTING OUT OF THEM NOW -------JUST MY 2 CENTS.
demonjim
Well-Known Member
I was talking about a stock engine. Of course when you build it, especially if you go radical, there will have to be improvements in the cooling. I can still remember hearing many engines that had radical builds being cranked after they had been driven, shut and restarted, sounding like they were not going to start.
mario03srt
Well-Known Member
And even then use straight mani vacuum over ported vacuum to the can and it will run even cooler......
mario03srt
Well-Known Member
Try some Water Wetter.
Worst case of overheating damage I ever seen was a 318 out of a 73 charger, I got the engine off a guy I bought a 70 Challenger off of.
He said the car yard drove, and he pulled the engine and trans, and sat in outside covered with a tarp.
It was free, and complete so I hauled it home. Buy the time I got around to it, I was locked up, I figured from sitting outside....
Wrong, the soft plugs were rusted out on the back of the heads, the crank was ok but needed turned, the big issue was the piston pins were seized in the pistons.
That is getting an engine hot. I guess it yard drove, until it did not.
In my opinion, cooling systems tend to be an area where some people feel the need to re-invent the wheel. All too often I see these crazy water pumps, fans, and theories.
Yes, a higher horsepower engine is going to create more heat. Heat is a byproduct of fuel consumed and output. To rid of heat, a heat exchange must take place in the radiator, airflow removing heat from the coolant as it passes through the tubes and fins.
In my 69 Swinger, with a W2 head 408, I am running a stock 69 replacement water pump with a stock 69 factory fan and clutch. This combined with a Smiths aluminum 2 row radiator with 1.25" tubes. With the rad is a custom made shroud, also by Smith's, that puts the fan exactly where it should be relative to depth within shroud. I have never seen temps over 200 with the exception of a stuck thermostat. Even on very hot days it never heats up in town or on the highway. The highest operating temp I've seen is a hair over 190. I run a 180 thermostat. Agree with the others that timing plays a role in operating temps.
As far as your engine heating up over 230 when shut down, I would not worry about it. I do understand your concern, it was my first outing with the 408 when the thermostat stuck, this did make me nervous. 5 years later and never an issue again. FWIW, many new vehicles always run over 200 degrees in order to meet emissions standards. Heavy trucks and equipment run best just over 200, in fact I've seen truck drivers use adjustable fronts on their trucks all year to keep temps up around 200.
In the future, if you do heat up again, your best method of cooling is to keep it running at an elevated idle speed, and mist water through the radiator. The energy used to turn the water sprayed through the radiator to steam will pull heat from the rad, therefore cooling the engine.
Chris
Next door in Alberta.
Yes, a higher horsepower engine is going to create more heat. Heat is a byproduct of fuel consumed and output. To rid of heat, a heat exchange must take place in the radiator, airflow removing heat from the coolant as it passes through the tubes and fins.
In my 69 Swinger, with a W2 head 408, I am running a stock 69 replacement water pump with a stock 69 factory fan and clutch. This combined with a Smiths aluminum 2 row radiator with 1.25" tubes. With the rad is a custom made shroud, also by Smith's, that puts the fan exactly where it should be relative to depth within shroud. I have never seen temps over 200 with the exception of a stuck thermostat. Even on very hot days it never heats up in town or on the highway. The highest operating temp I've seen is a hair over 190. I run a 180 thermostat. Agree with the others that timing plays a role in operating temps.
As far as your engine heating up over 230 when shut down, I would not worry about it. I do understand your concern, it was my first outing with the 408 when the thermostat stuck, this did make me nervous. 5 years later and never an issue again. FWIW, many new vehicles always run over 200 degrees in order to meet emissions standards. Heavy trucks and equipment run best just over 200, in fact I've seen truck drivers use adjustable fronts on their trucks all year to keep temps up around 200.
In the future, if you do heat up again, your best method of cooling is to keep it running at an elevated idle speed, and mist water through the radiator. The energy used to turn the water sprayed through the radiator to steam will pull heat from the rad, therefore cooling the engine.
Chris
Next door in Alberta.
Last edited:
Richie
Well-Known Member
Thanks..
1 more, 1 more.....because I think it is easier to see the relation (I'll leave out the equations for my non science folks). Basically, water stays in the liquid state longer as pressure increases (yay for radiator caps!)....which is why someone above was saying at high altitude water boils at a lower temp; granted, that only applies to atmospheric conditions at altitude.I think that's been covered ad nauseum and it's "at sea level" as we're not referring to anything under water.
Richie
Well-Known Member
Well I just got my 17" Derale fan. There's is no way this thing is coming apart and it should blow pretty well in the shroud. If they think it's too small or whatever we'll get something better
-
