Stuck Torsion Bar, SERIOUSLY stuck

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Yes it's a lot of rust but believe it or not it was actually in much better shape than some cars I've seen around here. The body shop that did my metal work had just finished up a full restoration on a local Olds 442 and the only part of that car that didn't have to be replaced was the inner structure of the body.

Thanks again Badart for the LCAs, I don't need anything else no I've got just about everything done I just need to finish up painting and re-assembling everything under it.

Cudamark, that's not surprising at all, strange things happen in this little state. I probably wouldn't have been able to stop laughing if I saw that, like a scene straight out of a 3 stooges episode.
 
Take that rusty crap to the scrapyard. Someone here has to have a clean driver side lca. I hane one for 25. but shipping is a dealbreaker.
 
You are too far into it. You have to do it, man thing. Oil, torch, and BFH.

Then get a new one; too much heat on the LCA weakens the metal.
 
Oh for sure, even though I'm picking up a set from Badart that just gives me free range to try whatever creatively destructive solution I can come up. I'll destroy the LCA but I absolutely refuse to let the rust win this one, I will separate them even if I have to involve a plasma cutter.

Tying it to my truck is pretty much inevitable at this point. :rock:
 
FomocoReformed said:
Oh for sure, even though I'm picking up a set from Badart that just gives me free range to try whatever creatively destructive solution I can come up. I'll destroy the LCA but I absolutely refuse to let the rust win this one, I will separate them even if I have to involve a plasma cutter.

Tying it to my truck is pretty much inevitable at this point. :rock:
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yea man!!! let us know how it goes!!!!!!!!

:cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers:
 
FomocoReformed said:
Oh for sure, even though I'm picking up a set from Badart that just gives me free range to try whatever creatively destructive solution I can come up. I'll destroy the LCA but I absolutely refuse to let the rust win this one, I will separate them even if I have to involve a plasma cutter.

Tying it to my truck is pretty much inevitable at this point. :rock:
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Hopefully your luck is better than mine, because if I tried that something would surely fly into my tailgate or the rear windshield:D
 
No such luck haha, I was actually worried about that but nothing hit my truck but it didn't exactly work either. Couldn't keep the strap holding it. Spent a decent amount of time beating it against a big rock in my yard as well. Ended up driving down to the local scrap yard and throwing it with maximum prejudice into the scrap dumpster.

Rust you win this one you bastard. :angry3:

Tony Fields said:
Here's to you Badart:thumbup::thumbup:

Great folks here.
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Ditto on that one.
 
How about trying a wire wheel on the rust that you can reach, then soaking in penetrating oil, then get new vise and clamp it in and beat it out with a good 2 lb sledge.
 
Have you tried remounting the LCA into the K frame, and using the torsion bar tool (or a homemade one) to hammer the torsion bar out?

The one thing I figured out was that removing the strut rods AFTER pulling out the LCAs as a unit is a beeeeeeeeeeyottch.

If the LCA is in the car you might have a more solid base from which to hammer the torsion bar out.

mattsvaliant00042torsionbarremoval.jpg


Except, my homemade tools sucked. Don't make them out of wood. If you can make them out of plate steel and some U-bolts like I saw on someone else's thread, or the actual removal tool, and a deadblow hammer, you won't curse as much as I did.

The one thing you don't want to do is hammer or vise grip or heat the torsion bar itself.
 
I read an article (Machinists Workshop Magazine did the test) about using a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid as a penetrant. The tests showed that rusted bolts loosened with much lower torque than those soaked with the name brand penetrants.

Penetrant: Average Load:
none 516 ft lbs
WD40 238
PB Blaster 214
Liquid Wrench 127
Kano Kroil 106
ATF-Acetone mix 53

Although I've never actually tried it, I have always been curious. It could be snake oil for all I know. At this point, it may be worth a shot!
 
clinteg said:
I read an article (Machinists Workshop Magazine did the test) about using a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid as a penetrant. The tests showed that rusted bolts loosened with much lower torque than those soaked with the name brand penetrants.

Penetrant: Average Load:
none 516 ft lbs
WD40 238
PB Blaster 214
Liquid Wrench 127
Kano Kroil 106
ATF-Acetone mix 53

Although I've never actually tried it, I have always been curious. It could be snake oil for all I know. At this point, it may be worth a shot!
Click to expand...

While I like the convenience my spray can Sea Foam Deep Creep banging around in the tool box, even with the cost of Acetone a couple of dollars a gallon higher than last year and a quart of ATF up considerably too, the ATF/acetone mix is bunches cheaper than the now about 10 bucks a can Deep Creep. And no, it's not snake oil, it really works.
And it works well in the cheapie Harbor Freight, bought on sale, clear/black plastic squirt can, too. Just don't be surprised if you have to add more acetone to the mix if you don't use it for a while.
 
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