Sub Frame connector conundrum

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35 Ford "Slant back" that I repaired the frame on, and installed floor pans. There was NO floor what so ever when I started this one! LOL


Also a 34' Ford that should be in a damn Museum it so freaking nice! He has had me design a few new suspension parts and you can see he has kept all the original parts he takes off and holds on to them. In this case its hanging on the wall back there!
 

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I used the mancini connectors , welded them in, they were too short..as in the shoe that fits to the rear frame did not slide back enough so that you can weld the boxed/tube portion to the rear frame section.

I extended mine at the fronts so that I could weld the tube along with the shoe to the frame.


They made a HUGE difference, like crackedback said...jack lift the car at the corner and you notice right away...as well just taking hard turns...leaving the line....the car feel 10 times stiffer.
 
4mulaSvaliant said:
35 Ford "Slant back" that I repaired the frame on, and installed floor pans. There was NO floor what so ever when I started this one! LOL


Also a 34' Ford that should be in a damn Museum it so freaking nice! He has had me design a few new suspension parts and you can see he has kept all the original parts he takes off and holds on to them. In this case its hanging on the wall back there!
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Nice work. I'm more on the mechanical end of things. Wiring in an LS3 in a 54 Chevy truck and doing a 100 point resto on a dual quad 57 Bel Air convertable. It's all in the details. Remember, Excederin is your friend.
 
Trust me... I'm not mad at all.

If I care about the car and potential originality, nothing is getting cut in the floor area or attached to it.

If I don't care and it's a hardcore, leaf spring, drag race set up, it's getting something similar to mopardudes setup. I run them inside the rear rails, cutting the front diagonal section out. If the car is getting a relocation kit, they go all the way to the relo boxes and are welded to the boxes, tying the rear suspension mount points solidly to the chassis.

Lots of ways to do things. I prefer the SBE approach... simple but effective. There is also, UBE, which I really try to stay away from but sometimes can't... Ugly but effective.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
I used the mancini connectors , welded them in, they were too short..as in the shoe that fits to the rear frame did not slide back enough so that you can weld the boxed/tube portion to the rear frame section.

I extended mine at the fronts so that I could weld the tube along with the shoe to the frame.


They made a HUGE difference, like crackedback said...jack lift the car at the corner and you notice right away...as well just taking hard turns...leaving the line....the car feel 10 times stiffer.
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Now add torque boxes in. I didn't think the difference would be that noticable over the connectors. I was wrong.
 
crackedback said:
Trust me... I'm not mad at all.

If I care about the car and potential originality, nothing is getting cut in the floor area or attached to it.

If I don't care and it's a hardcore, leaf spring, drag race set up, it's getting something similar to mopardudes setup. I run them inside the rear rails, cutting the front diagonal section out. If the car is getting a relocation kit, they go all the way to the relo boxes and are welded to the boxes, tying the rear suspension mount points solidly to the chassis.

Lots of ways to do things. I prefer the SBE approach... simple but effective. There is also, UBE, which I really try to stay away from but sometimes can't... Ugly but effective.
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That's what UBE is? Man, I always thought that was the ten dollar hooker option.
 
4mulaSvaliant said:
By the way Mopardude, what did you do (if you are that far) about the carpet going over the tube? Did you build a false floor to bring it level across the floor or? Just leave it?

Just wondering.
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uhm, not that far yet! car has been put aside for the last year in my girlfriends garage...im trying to get my 68 cuda back in action for the time being. :) i need to duplicate the connectors i made for the dart for my cuda...took me and my bud a weekend to build those and install them...55 dollars for a 10 ft piece of 2x3x.120 wall stock...

on the dart ill dynomat the floor, then see how the carpet fits....im sure it wont fit but, not there yet. ill figure it out once i get there lol
 
This is how I am doing mine on my Duster. It is a drag car so it will not have any carpet. This and a 12 point cage should make her very strong.

Don't want to cut the floors in my Dart so I got a set of UScartools for it.
 

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I know you could run this into the ground ad nauseum, but does anybody have any thoughts on running an extra piece from the subframe connector to the rocker under the B pillar?
 
Revhendo said:
I know you could run this into the ground ad nauseum, but does anybody have any thoughts on running an extra piece from the subframe connector to the rocker under the B pillar?
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Good idea and effective.
 
Yes......a great plan. Again though.....weld it to the floor as well. Though it is just a short run of tube, it will again help with reducing torsion to the whole floor and transfer some to the rocker area of the car which is significantly stronger than the floor alone.
 
OK, so what did you guys do with the emergency brake cable ?

It seems to be right where I need to weld the subframe connector.
 
Revhendo said:
Now add torque boxes in. I didn't think the difference would be that noticable over the connectors. I was wrong.
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Of course it made a big difference!You just tied the rockers in and they are boxed,and very strong!

As for welds tearing at the floor pan Id simply add a flange at the top of a weld in style frame connector. This will increase the contact area between the floor pan and connector and allow for some nice big plug welds at the top of the connector. Also increases the thickness of the contact area.

IMHO,this is how it should be tied to the floor pan.Also the butt ends of the connectors should really be sleeved inside both the original frame end and the new connector.Again this increases contact area and allows for some extra nice big plug welds.

And in the end the frame connector will have a nice flush appearance and be VERY strong!
 
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