Subframe connectors?

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hypermite

hypermite

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I'm planning on taking my Duster to the track this summer ( Edelbrock head 440, 727 & 3.91s) The cars pulls way harder than my 12.20 sec. small block Scamp, So I'm hoping for super low 12s or high 11s, So my question is, At what performance level do subframe connectors become neccessary ? the car hooks like mad on the street with 295-55-15 M/T et streets.
 
anytime will help you out.like now is the best time.it helps tighting the chassis up.
 
It does not matter how you drive your early unibody, because subframe connectors make craploads of difference to the body stability and also cut down on a lot of the body flex sounds inside the car.


6pakattack said:
And Lord knows tightening her chassis works wonders !!!:D
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Ok, what's with the 6pac quote in my post?
Opps, it was probably me. :)
 
The subframe connectors and torque strap made a huge difference for me. The car handles better in normal driving and when hitting max power there is no twisting force. The front end lifts evenly where it used to be the left side under power. It doesn't fishtail as violently anymore, but slides out just a bit and keeps a straighter track. Much easier to control. I recommend subframe connectors to anyone. The difference is incredible.
 
Don't get the flimsy online stuff either.
Have it done or do it if you have the resources.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
The day you buy an abody, even if it is a stock slant 6.
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+1 here.... It was the first modification I did when I bought my car. Slant six with an auto. The car did stiffen up substantially!


I just bought 2- 2"x4" rectangle tubing 4' long. Notched the rear section to swallow the front part of the rear frame and welded every contact point, including the floor pan.
 
The US Car Tool makes one that welds to the bottom of the floor pan and to the subframe. It's a great product you might also want to install the torque boxes.
 
Im glad this came up.
Do you have to cut the floor pan to install subframe connectors?
I though I saw subframe connectors sold by mancini racing that dont require cutting the floor?
I would like to do this to my Dart in the next few months, but am a bit confused
I would appreciate any suggestions
thank you
George
 
Depends on where/who you get them from. US Car Tool require you to weld to the floor pan but you don't cut through it. Some just weld to the subframes and don't touch the floor pan and others require you to cut through the floor.
 
when we put in the 416 we put them in right away...didnt know what times I would be doing..but to be safe we put them in...I had bought the bolt in ones from Mancini Racing...but we welded thenm in as well...and did not have to do any floor cutting on my Duster...now she is stiff like good wood and no more flex...glad I put them in..the car leaves hard...have to get her to the track when it gets warmer...
 
good info Dustpan340
when you bolted them in, did you put jack stands under the rear axle tubes?
where did you put the jack stands in the front?
thank you
George
 
GeorgeGerhard said:
good info Dustpan340
when you bolted them in, did you put jack stands under the rear axle tubes?
where did you put the jack stands in the front?
thank you
George
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The bolt in ones are junk, you need to weld them in.
 
the way i did them.
:wack:
 

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1970Duster said:
The bolt in ones are junk, you need to weld them in.
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I did weld them in as well...as far as junk...no one told me they were ...a few people with Dusters and Darts told me to get them and also weld them in...I asked before doing when I build this car....guess I was told wrong ...oh well next car I do diff
 
DUSTPAN340 said:
I did weld them in as well...as far as junk...no one told me they were ...a few people with Dusters and Darts told me to get them and also weld them in...I asked before doing when I build this car....guess I was told wrong ...oh well next car I do diff
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Oops I messed that up. The bolt in connectors are fine, just don't bolt them in but weld them instead. Is what I was trying to say.
 
this is how i put mine in ..... before welding them in.

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all you need is 2x2 .120 wall and you dont need to cut the floor... flare the front and pie cut the back...

quick and easy, and strong as hell to... also while your under there weld all the seams on the sub frames...
 

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