Suggested carb, intake and cam for 318

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fnaramore

fnaramore

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I have '73 dart with a 318 and I was recently suggested to use a Edelbrock 600cfm carb, performer intake and performer rpm cam. It is a street car that I am looking to find maximum performance without taking too much from drive-ability. If anyone has any advice on what would give me this the best, I would really appreciate it!
 
Screw the cam and use he RPM intake instead. Help in Tne Cam selection can be given if you include the gear ratio, tire size and if you want to change the converter out for. Higher stall unit. Also, a very important thing is what is your compression ratio? Will you mill the heads for more?
 
It is the stock 8.6:1 compression with 2.76 final gear ratio. If I recall correctly, the rpm intake requires 340 or 360 heads
 
Requires?!?! Perhaps port matching the head is a better idea you missed?
I can also show you stock 340 intakes with a smaller port window than a Performer.
Do you plan on in reading the compression ratio? Wha about changing the rear ratio. Those two items limit your cam shaft selection in a mongo huge way.
The RPM cam is WAY WAY toooo much for that ratio and gear.
And you still have not answered all of my questions.

Failure to do so will only result in a crappy cam for what your doing and any oxy else answering the question is simply making the best choice while being ill informed which could result in a slower moving car with crappie mileage.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Requires?!?! Perhaps port matching the head is a better idea you missed?
I can also show you stock 340 intakes with a smaller port window than a Performer.
Do you plan on in reading the compression ratio? Wha about changing the rear ratio. Those two items limit your cam shaft selection in a mongo huge way.
The RPM cam is WAY WAY toooo much for that ratio and gear.
And you still have not answered all of my questions.

Failure to do so will only result in a crappy cam for what your doing and any oxy else answering the question is simply making the best choice while being ill informed which could result in a slower moving car with crappie mileage.
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I second Rumblefish. If you keep the stock low compression you need to go smaller on the cam. Large cam + low compression + high gears = dog.

What transmission? If auto your converter will also dictate.
 
I dropped in a Comp Cams XE268H cam along with an RPM air gap intake and and Edelbrock 600 on my 318. It was pretty dang quick and sounded nice. Funny story, my friend has very little money to fix his '55 Chevy, so we are dropping this 318 and 904 transmission into his Chevy. The license plates should read FAUXPAR.
 
fnaramore said:
I have '73 dart with a 318 and I was recently suggested to use a Edelbrock 600cfm carb, performer intake and performer rpm cam. It is a street car that I am looking to find maximum performance without taking too much from drive-ability. If anyone has any advice on what would give me this the best, I would really appreciate it!
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The intake and carb are both good choices for the 318.I would steer clear of the Ede cam.I like Comp Cams. Look for something in the XE (Extreme Energy)line. Very popular line of cams,with very happy owners.

The best thing for you to do is give Comp Cams a call,and have them help you pick a cam. Have all your information ready,because they are going to ask you.Things like motor,heads,carb,gear ratio,tire size,vehicle weight,intended use,etc.
 
As you can most likely tell rumblefish I am fairly new to this. The combination I listed was suggested by East Coast Hot Rods, a classic car restoration shop nearby. I know what port matching is, the reason I said that is because Edelbrock says to use 340 heads.
 
Johnny Dart said:
The intake and carb are both good choices for the 318.I would steer clear of the Ede cam.I like Comp Cams. Look for something in the XE (Extreme Energy)line. Very popular line of cams,with very happy owners.

The best thing for you to do is give Comp Cams a call,and have them help you pick a cam. Have all your information ready,because they are going to ask you.Things like motor,heads,carb,gear ratio,tire size,vehicle weight,intended use,etc.
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Okay cool, thanks a lot man!
 
Mopar to ya said:
I dropped in a Comp Cams XE268H cam along with an RPM air gap intake and and Edelbrock 600 on my 318. It was pretty dang quick and sounded nice. Funny story, my friend has very little money to fix his '55 Chevy, so we are dropping this 318 and 904 transmission into his Chevy. The license plates should read FAUXPAR.
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Is yours a manual or automatic? Mines an automatic I would imagine I would have to increase the stall to get in that intakes operating range
 
904 automatic. I ran a 2400 stall in mine. If I had it to do over, I would have gone a little higher, maybe 2800. I run a Dana 60 with 4.10's and it didn't smoke the tires as well as I would have liked, but with the old 2.76's it spun all day long. It was a real nice combination. I only changed because I wanted a big strong small block and went to a 408 stroker instead. I have two sets of headers for it still. I have a set of Hooker Competition and a set of Super Competitions. You are welcome to either set at no charge. Shipping might be a little expensive, and they are a little beat up, but .... free plus shipping if you want 'em.
 
2.xx gears, if going with a comp, XE256-262H with a 268 as the upper limit or something else similar.
 
Only you can figure what "best" is. It's different for everybody because of budget constraints, goals with the car, what you have to work with and on and on. ANY high rise dual plane intake will be a GOOD choice. Are there some better than others? Sure. Do you have 300 plus bucks to spend on one, or the time to wait for a good deal on one? Only you can answer those questions.

For 300-360 or so HP, a good old reliable LD4B, or Action Plus will be GREAT. Don't toil forever trying to choose "best", you'll drive yourself crazy and take all the fun out of it.
 
Mopar to ya said:
904 automatic. I ran a 2400 stall in mine. If I had it to do over, I would have gone a little higher, maybe 2800. I run a Dana 60 with 4.10's and it didn't smoke the tires as well as I would have liked, but with the old 2.76's it spun all day long. It was a real nice combination. I only changed because I wanted a big strong small block and went to a 408 stroker instead. I have two sets of headers for it still. I have a set of Hooker Competition and a set of Super Competitions. You are welcome to either set at no charge. Shipping might be a little expensive, and they are a little beat up, but .... free plus shipping if you want 'em.
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Could you send me some pictures of their condition?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Only you can figure what "best" is. It's different for everybody because of budget constraints, goals with the car, what you have to work with and on and on. ANY high rise dual plane intake will be a GOOD choice. Are there some better than others? Sure. Do you have 300 plus bucks to spend on one, or the time to wait for a good deal on one? Only you can answer those questions.

For 300-360 or so HP, a good old reliable LD4B, or Action Plus will be GREAT. Don't toil forever trying to choose "best", you'll drive yourself crazy and take all the fun out of it.
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Thanks for the info, you make a very good point!
 
fnaramore said:
Thanks for the info, you make a very good point!
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You're certainly welcome. People have been making big power with 318s for decades before all the latest and greatest parts came out. While the new stuff is certainly better, the old stuff is budget friendly. I sure wouldn't worry about the glitz and glitter of all the latest and greatest unless I was maybe building something to race.
 
fnaramore said:
As you can most likely tell rumblefish I am fairly new to this. The combination I listed was suggested by East Coast Hot Rods, a classic car restoration shop nearby. I know what port matching is, the reason I said that is because Edelbrock says to use 340 heads.
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1st;
I hope your not taking me in the wrong manor here.

2nd:
You know what port matching is but still state what you did about what Edelbrock said? Hummmm

Yea yea yea, I get that your new at this. Your first post reeks of new guy and that is not an insult but an honest telling. It's also a good thing you mention it.

A resto shop isn't the best place to get a recommendation for performance parts. In my Experiance, it's the second worst spot.
 
fnaramore said:
Could you send me some pictures of their condition?
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I thought I posted them for sale on FABO at one time, but I don't see the post in my history. I can get some pics if I can get into my shed in daylight. The comps are rusty looking and they have a couple scraped spots where they rubbed. The Super Comps I never used but came with my 408. They are ceramic coated (silver) and have numerous dents and whatever car they were on leaked oil like a sieve. They have oil stains on them. Both sets are functional but not pretty. If my TTi's are any indication, the oil stains burn off very fast once the leak is fixed.
 
rumblefish360 said:
1st;
I hope your not taking me in the wrong manor here.

2nd:
You know what port matching is but still state what you did about what Edelbrock said? Hummmm

Yea yea yea, I get that your new at this. Your first post reeks of new guy and that is not an insult but an honest telling. It's also a good thing you mention it.

A resto shop isn't the best place to get a recommendation for performance parts. In my Experiance, it's the second worst spot.
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Oh, I understand you are not trying to be rude, I was just saying my experience is limited. I know what port matching is, which is way different from feeling I have the ability to do it on my own.
 
fnaramore said:
Oh, I understand you are not trying to be rude, I was just saying my experience is limited. I know what port matching is, which is way different from feeling I have the ability to do it on my own.
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Hahaha! Me too. I figure if I tried it would look like they gave a drunken monkey an electric file. I'll pay to have that stuff done.
 
RustyRatRod said:
You're certainly welcome. People have been making big power with 318s for decades before all the latest and greatest parts came out. While the new stuff is certainly better, the old stuff is budget friendly. I sure wouldn't worry about the glitz and glitter of all the latest and greatest unless I was maybe building something to race.
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Thats not true. New stuff is better therefore old stuff is worthless and wont work anymore...at least thats what I gather from most of the reading on the boards :D
 
Baxter61 said:
Thats not true. New stuff is better therefore old stuff is worthless and wont work anymore...at least thats what I gather from most of the reading on the boards :D
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From they way people virtually spend other peoples money, there should be a huge pile of "obsolete" parts somewhere, huh?
 
I run the Ed Performer, Comp XE256, 600cfm, stock convertor and 318 small valves 302 heads, works great. It's in the work truck with a 3.91, but changing to a 3.55.

Torque convertor should be a deciding factor, Comp says the 256 works with a stock one, and it does no bog or stumble off idle. I think like others any bigger and you'll start feeling a bog coupled with unhappiness.
 
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