So we've got a little change of plans. I popped the heads off this weekend and it looks like the bottom end is junk. Cylinders are super rusty and the pistons won't move much without excessive force, even after letting the motor sit with oil in the cylinders for a week. We knew it didn't turn much when we bought it, but at the end of the day it was still super cheap and we figured it would free up after letting it sit with the oil. Although I don't think I will be able to get it done for this summer anymore as planned, I still think this is a good opportunity for me and my buddies to really dig into a motor and do our first complete rebuild.
With that said, I have some new questions, beginning with how cheap can I get away with a rebuild? Ideally I'd reuse everything possible, but if that's not feasible, I understand. I also understand that I don't want to go completely cheap and put some money in good parts, but I also want to keep this pretty budget friendly. I found some rebuild kits from Mancini that aren't ridiculously expensive, are those any good? One of them even comes with pistons, so that may be helpful if that's necessary. I figure I'll probably need to get the crank cleaned up somehow too? I've never really thought beyond a cam swap before, so this is all gonna be really new to me. Any advice, words of wisdom, or ideas are greatly appreciated.
I guess this means I can broaden my cam choices a little though too lol
You need reasonable expectations and a reasonable budget. Just "getting by" is a waste of money. It's almost always a double spend, meaning you'll do it again, and much sooner than later.
If the cylinder walls are junk, you know it needs to be bored. That's pistons and rings. If the cylinder walls are in that shape, you can bet the valves are junk, the valve springs are junk, the damper is junk (they always are after that many years...if it is the OE damper...if it's been replaced then it needs to be looked over very close), you'll need rod and main bearings, cam bearings, a gasket set and an oil pump.
The rods will need to be rebuilt, the block should be decked (skipping this makes no sense...the decks are never flat or square but atleast get them flat so the head gaskets have a fighting chance to seal) and for sure, the main line isn't straight and the holes won't be round.
Not to harsh your buzz, but this is just the reality of the situation.
If you want something reliable you'll need to do the work. Doesn't mean you need a set of forged Pistons (you probably don't and there is nothing' wrong with cast Pistons) or aftermarket rods. Rebuild what you have with a decent bolt (don't need the ARP wave lock bolts...I hate those things) and you don't need a stroke risk crank. Grind what you have.
Same with the heads. Replacement quality valves are relatively cheap. Unless the valves are in pristine shape (the stems wear out long before the valve face does) just replace them. Ditto on the valve springs. Who knows how many miles are on them, and they are a consumable part.
Replacement rockers and shafts are also relatively cheap. Most likely, unless you are lucky (I am not) the shafts and rockers are used up. Unless they have been replaced in the past.
My point is you shouldn't skimp on machine work. Get the round stuff round, the flat stuff flat and straight and then you will have a stable foundation to work from.
Then pick your parts accordingly. Cast Pistons, a relatively inexpensive set of rings (I'm not a fan of moly rings but that's just me) a Summit cam if that's what you want, a rebuilders gasket set...it all adds up but it's cheaper to do it correct once than to do it twice.
I'll be back home tomorrow as well so I can check my head casting numbers to make sure they're worth the work, although I'll probably still use them whether they are or not lol.
