Superstock suspension

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fnaramore

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Hey guys! So I'm finally looking to replace my completely exhausted suspension. Iv been looking at mopar performance superstock leaf springs and torsion bar set and have two questions. Should I be getting 2800 lb leaf springs or 3200 lb leaf springs and does anybody know off the top of their head what diameter torsion bars I should get? All this is for a 73 dart.
 
How heavy the car is dictates what springs. I'm keeping my slant 6 torsion bars, don't remember the diameter.
 
Thats what I figured, but one is labeled super stock and the other drag launch. I literally have not clue what I am doing when it comes to suspension lol looking for all the help I can get.
 
Are you gonna drag launch? If not just get some stock replacements, maybe from McVeigh Trucking on ebay.
 
What are you doing with the car? If it's just a street car, you might be happier with something like the XHD (extra heavy duty) leaf spring.
 
There are a lot of threads on here for the pros and cons of using Super Stock springs on here versus XHD, Espo, etc.
I suggest you do a search and do a lot of reading, and then make your personal choice for what's best for you.
I'm personally going with Super Stocks (002 and 003) on my Dart Sport, but i want the look and the funtionality of them in the long run.
If you do go with the Super Stocks, the car will sit higher on the back end, and higher yet on the passenger side which makes the car look uneven when viewed from the back. You really need longer shocks too if you want to take full advantage of them.
 
I got you guys. The main thing is I just really don't understand the weight measurement thing. Like it clearly says maximum vehicle weight 2800 lbs for the superstock spring, but do I add the two weights together so its 5600 or is it saying with two springs thats the max weight?
 
Just remember, SuperStock springs were engineered for drag racing. Are you a serious drag racer?

If your answer is "NO", get XHD springs.
 
if you go with ss springs,and you mainly drive on the street,get 2 pass.side springs.that way the rear will sit even.they are stiff ,but are good springs.i would use them again for sure
 
Yeah, I hear you guys. Anyone have any opinions on the torsion bars? In my catalog it lists it as .810 diameter is for drag racing, .890 for improved "A" engine handling and .920 for performance handling
 
And isn't there a specific purpose for the pass. side to be more arched? Would it neglect anything by doing two pass. side springs?
 
My bad, got too caught up in hunting for information. Mostly a street car with weekend drag strip time.
 
My bad, got too caught up in hunting for information. Mostly a street car with weekend drag strip time.

I would go with SS springs in your case.
The weight of the springs is rated for the approximate weight of your car.
So most people use the 002 and 003 3200 lb springs which should work well with most street/strip a body cars.
 
okay cool! Would you be able to answer question about the doing both sides with pass. springs? I mean that just seems like a bad idea to me. I feel like they are the way they are for a purpose
 
XHD or Mcveigh springs, v8 bars, 1" sounds big, but it's not. Plenty of float with mine, still has good weight transfer.


PS:

I got a great deal on my justsuspension.com 1" bars for $188 shipped discount code 'shopalizer'.
 
okay cool! Would you be able to answer question about the doing both sides with pass. springs? I mean that just seems like a bad idea to me. I feel like they are the way they are for a purpose

Since you have asked a legitimate question, you deserve a proper answer. Super Stock springs were designed and developed in 1967 specifically for the upcoming Hemi A body SS/B cars. Those cars were later redesignated as SS/A, and later still as the current SS/AH class. They were the handiwork of an extremely clever young Chrysler engineer named Bob Tarrozi, who was actually in charge of development for the entire program. These springs are "handed", as you are aware. The reason was, that Chryser wanted these cars to be extremely competitive "out of the box" so that if NHRA imposed the usual restrictions on the cars (which they always did) they could run without any additional, or non-original traction equipment. You see, the problem is that when you initiate a sudden release of torque to the rear wheels of your car, the resistance of inertia and friction tends to cause the entire rear axle assembly to try to rotate in the same direction that the driveshaft is turning. The result is that the driver's side tire is forced downward into the pavement, while the passenger side tire is lifted. That is why with a non-limited slip differential, only the passenger side tire spins. So what if you could load more weight on the passenger side tire when the vehicle was at rest ? If you could load an additional 50 -75 lbs on that passenger tire at rest, when the power was applied and the torque tried to "lift" the tire, it would be countered by the extra weight, you see ? That is exactly how SS springs work. The pass side spring is actually stiffer and has aprox 1.250" more arch than the driver's side. When the driver's side torsion bar is cranked up to level the car, it loads the pass side tire just as described. Some of us have dipped well into the 9 second range at the track with nothing more than properly installed and adjusted SS springs. They do tend to be a little harsh on the street for some tastes, although some of us have used them on a variety of street/strip vehicles for over 40 years without any ill effects. They do work extremely well, but like most automotive things, they are a compromise. To give you an idea of just how well they can work, I knew a guy years ago who was running low 11s with an open(non-limited slip) differential. SS springs and tire pressure allowed him to launch straight with no pass side tire spin at all. These springs will make your car sit higher in the rear. To get a lower ride height, many of us simply have had a spring shop de-camber the springs to our specs with no loss of efficiency whatsoever. Hope that answers your question sufficiently.
 
Since you have asked a legitimate question, you deserve a proper answer. Super Stock springs were designed and developed in 1967 specifically for the upcoming Hemi A body SS/B cars. Those cars were later redesignated as SS/A, and later still as the current SS/AH class. They were the handiwork of an extremely clever young Chrysler engineer named Bob Tarrozi, who was actually in charge of development for the entire program. These springs are "handed", as you are aware. The reason was, that Chryser wanted these cars to be extremely competitive "out of the box" so that if NHRA imposed the usual restrictions on the cars (which they always did) they could run without any additional, or non-original traction equipment. You see, the problem is that when you initiate a sudden release of torque to the rear wheels of your car, the resistance of inertia and friction tends to cause the entire rear axle assembly to try to rotate in the same direction that the driveshaft is turning. The result is that the driver's side tire is forced downward into the pavement, while the passenger side tire is lifted. That is why with a non-limited slip differential, only the passenger side tire spins. So what if you could load more weight on the passenger side tire when the vehicle was at rest ? If you could load an additional 50 -75 lbs on that passenger tire at rest, when the power was applied and the torque tried to "lift" the tire, it would be countered by the extra weight, you see ? That is exactly how SS springs work. The pass side spring is actually stiffer and has aprox 1.250" more arch than the driver's side. When the driver's side torsion bar is cranked up to level the car, it loads the pass side tire just as described. Some of us have dipped well into the 9 second range at the track with nothing more than properly installed and adjusted SS springs. They do tend to be a little harsh on the street for some tastes, although some of us have used them on a variety of street/strip vehicles for over 40 years without any ill effects. They do work extremely well, but like most automotive things, they are a compromise. To give you an idea of just how well they can work, I knew a guy years ago who was running low 11s with an open(non-limited slip) differential. SS springs and tire pressure allowed him to launch straight with no pass side tire spin at all. These springs will make your car sit higher in the rear. To get a lower ride height, many of us simply have had a spring shop de-camber the springs to our specs with no loss of efficiency whatsoever. Hope that answers your question sufficiently.

I have to say thanks a lot for that man! I really means a lot to me you going into such detail to help me understand it.
 
If someone wouldn't mind, could you explain to me what having a larger diameter torsion bar does? Like what do get from a 1" and what do you get from a .810"?
 
Okay, thats what I figured. So for drag racing its a matter of proper weight transfer. But you're saying you are finding a good amount of transfer with an 1"? Anyone else like to chime in? Iv already decided on the 3200 lb SS springs but still unsure about the torsion bars
 
DIA Rate Part Number fits
0.81 90#/in P5249148 drag bars
0.83 100#/in 2535888-9 slant six bars
0.85 110#/in 2535890-1 slant six w/air - 318 w/o air
0.87 120#/in P5249149 (2535892-3) 318 w/ air - 340 std bars
0.89 130#/in P5249150 383 std bars
0.92 150#/in p5249151 *h/d handling
0.99 200#/in p5249152 solo/road race
1.04 250#/in p5249153 h/d solo road race-oval track
1.09 300#/in *p5249154 oval track 1/4 mi--optional 1/2 mi
1.14 300#/in p5249155 oval track 1/4 and 1/2 mile *

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=135256
 
Go with the 0.920, unless you are trying to transfer weight while launching at the track. They will not be too stiff. These cars were set up with soft suspension back in the day. I ran 0.920's on the street for ten years and they seemed soft. I upgraded to 1.06's for better handling. The back end has two left SS springs and it rides fine on the street. Still manage mid 12's at the track.
 
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