sure grip is toast ???

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71scamp78

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Ok my sure grip is worn out and I believe it is the non rebuildable cone type. With that being said my car is a street strip car and will see a good amount of road time. Should I just get new sure grip if so what one and where. If I do get a new sure grip will it last a long while. Not sure I'd want a spool although much cheaper but be a pain on street car. Car will be around 425 hp with 3.55 gear
 
Cone type SGs are so rebuildable.
I've done lots.
I just machine off the bottom of the cone, and put a shim between the sidegear and the cone, to put the sidegear back into mesh with the spiders. I cut off enough to put about .080 clearance under it.I lube it all up with the correct fluids. I set the turning torque to 100 to 130 ftlbs. Closer to 100 for streeters. Closer to 130 or a bit more for racing. I buy my shims at the Ford dealer cuz they're cheaper there.

To set the turning torque, I clamp an axle into the bench-vise, hard. Jump-on-the-bar hard. Then I drop the assembled case onto it and make sure it's all the way engaged.Then I put my custom tool into the other side and go for the torquewrench.The tool is nothing more than a 6 inch length of the splined end of an old axle with a big nut welded onto the end. You could stuff the other axle in there and estimate turning torque on a longer bar.But the result will only be as good as your estimating.

Shims come in a bag of 5 IIRC. Cost was like $12Can. Labor to cut the cones was about $12/pair.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Cone type SGs are so rebuildable.
I've done lots.
I just machine off the bottom of the cone, and put a shim between the sidegear and the cone, to put the sidegear back into mesh with the spiders. I cut off enough to put about .080 clearance under it.I lube it all up with the correct fluids. I set the turning torque to 100 to 130 ftlbs. Closer to 100 for streeters. Closer to 130 or a bit more for racing. I buy my shims at the Ford dealer cuz they're cheaper there.
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Damn nice but I don't know how to rebuild so I'm out of luck...think Dr Diff has a nice new unit for 395.00 not bad
 
Just because you don't know doesn't mean you can't learn. Absolutely ANYTHING on these cars can be accomplished with basic skills and will.
 
This is nothing more than spinning bolts, and putting parts back where you found them.
The most important part of the job is putting the case back in with the backlash shims going back where you found them. If you replace the case with a different one, chances are good that you will need to reset the backlash. This means a new shimpack, and a new set of skills.And the spool? It will need the backlash set too.
By far the simplest is to fix what you got and slam it back in.
I found a spool unbearable on the street with 325/50s and 295/50s as well.

BTW. Don't be peg-legging it. With just one tire spinning, it will be spinning at double the speedo-indicated speed.This can overheat the spider to crosspin interface to the point of seizure, which can lead to the retainer bolt being torn off and the pin ejected. It usually get's caught hitting the carrier when it's halfway out. When this happens, everything locks up and the wheels stop turning. If this happens at 30 or more mph, the car can spin. I guarantee you won't be ready for that.
 
Eh, these days it's all about instant gratification. No patience for actually taking part in the building of your car on a primal level.

And then complain that they are broken down and can't turn a screwdriver. A vicious cycle.
 
71scamp78 said:
Damn nice but I don't know how to rebuild so I'm out of luck...think Dr Diff has a nice new unit for 395.00 not bad
Click to expand...

Dr. Diff hasn't had any of those $395 Mopar units for ages. They had hardening issues with them and I believe they just discontinued them.

If you want to send me your sure grip unit I can take it apart and recondition it as long as the case isn't ate up. I've only seen 2 that were bad. If it just need the cones milled down and shimmed up the total price including shipping both ways should be less than $100. Before you take anything apart clean all the gear lube off and take a dial indicator reading of the backlash. If you don't set it back where it was it might howl
 
fishy68 said:
Dr. Diff hasn't had any of those $395 Mopar units for ages. They had hardening issues with them and I believe they just discontinued them.

If you want to send me your sure grip unit I can take it apart and recondition it as long as the case isn't ate up. I've only seen 2 that were bad. If it just need the cones milled down and shimmed up the total price including shipping both ways should be less than $100. Before you take anything apart clean all the gear lube off and take a dial indicator reading of the backlash. If you don't set it back where it was it might howl
Click to expand...


I may do that...not sure what I'm gonna do with it yet . Dr Diff does sell a Detroit lower to which is stronger since I'm gonna race
 
It could be "toast" if the cross shaft hole is wallowed out but if not the above procedures illustrated in Rusty's thread work great. Any machine shop should be able to remove material from the cones and the shims are basically big washers.
 
Dr. Diff has them in stock now. He has the parts made and assembles them himself.
 
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