Foghorn leghorn
Well-Known Member
I have spoken to a local recommended shop (Vogt Automotive) and they said they could rebuild the diff. If I run into any parts difficulties, I will gladly let you know!
Sure Grip issues
- Thread starter Foghorn leghorn
- Start date
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They are rebuildable just not as easily as replacing a set of clutch disk and plates.
The cone types by design wear into the cases.. Can you shim and make em work, sure. Can you make them good as new... Well, that's very subjective. Once the pins eat up the case halves is it really cost effective to stay with the 2 pinion gear vs upgrading to the 4 pinion powr lok? Only you can decide that. If it was my $'s I'd find a good used powr lok and replace the clutches, short of catastrophic failure they are 100% rebuildable. I'd take strength and longevity over it'll sorta work and might hold up any day.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
A little late with my response, but here goes....
The chinese eBay versions are a crapshoot. You might get a good one, machined properly, you might not. I believe factory tolerance for runout of the ring (crown) gear is half a thousanth. Four thousandths has been reported for the chinese ones . Makes gear setup difficult, possibility of noise more likely.
Now, to be honest, I've got a 741 case 3.55 open, and I AM considering trying one of the eBay versions. I will LIKELY spring for Dr Diffs version.
Foghorn leghorn
Well-Known Member
I called a local speed shop with an excellent reputation here in Regina and will be dropping everything off this week. I will trust them to make the right call. Want to go with the clutch disc type for reliability.
340six
King Of Bling
I have had good luck with the ones I have used. I mostly use old Dana Powrlok and renew them. But have gotten some eBay I ones when they first showed up on market before Dr. Diff stared getting them and going threw them. I would if in market get one from him instead if an orginal can't be sorced and rebuilt.
I have one eBay special 2-3 years ago I got in a parts deal. At this point that has been moved around the garage to many times that the plan is now to add it to a spare 276:1 with new bearings and races while apart to freshen. Versus leaving it a one legged pirate.
I do know I don't like the bolts they used to bolt the halves together. Just look cheap, but that's just because their cheap. The others I had were fine. But who knows the newer ones maybe crap.
I can get pictures of it if interested.
LST46
Well-Known Member
Rebuildable and repairable are not the same thing. You can repair a cone type by milling down the sides of the cones and shimming the springs up (as long as the spider gears, case and cross shaft are ok) but the cone faces will still be worn. Nothing you can do about that
65TerrorCuda
Well-Known Member
Yeah let's see it
340six
King Of Bling
65TerrorCuda
Well-Known Member
To be fair I haven't seen a real Dana in the flesh so it might be completely fine. I agree the bolts look cheap even though the markings on mine indicated they're metric/chinese etc. grade 8 equivalent.
I would be suspect on that as some metric fasteners are smaller for an equivalent SAE size. They MIGHT be just as strong (or stronger if engineered correctly) I'm no metric bolt expert
Best I can do right now showing an OEM 1968 one I tore down and rebuilt. OEM Powr loks used grade 8 Left hand thread bolts.
Not a sale post, I don't have any available. Just a good example of them taken apart and assembled.
[SOLD] - Dodge Chrysler Plymouth Mopar 8.75 8 3/4 Sure Grip Carrier
Not a sale post, I don't have any available. Just a good example of them taken apart and assembled.
[SOLD] - Dodge Chrysler Plymouth Mopar 8.75 8 3/4 Sure Grip Carrier
1WildRT
Well-Known Member
Here is my reason for not wanting a cone style sure grip... They start eating themself on day 1... The cones eat into the case chewing up the case as well as the cones... Yes, the small end of the cone can be machined off allowing it to grab and eat some more... When you do that you need to shim the side gears to reduce the backlash... This was ever the intent of the engineer who designed it but mechanical people are crafty and found a way to prolong the life of the cone style units... But in spite of being "Rebuilt" the unit is still eating itself and while eating itself it is putting metal filings into the lube.... Which in turn means there is metal going through the bearings and gear teeth...
Also as the cones & case are eaten the backlash on the spider gears is increasing...
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A clutch style unit eats the clutches... Which are made of a fiber material... It doesn't effect the bearings or gears... When the clutches wear out you can replace the clutches, they were originally sold by Chrysler & now are available through the aftermarket...
Also as the cones & case are eaten the backlash on the spider gears is increasing...
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A clutch style unit eats the clutches... Which are made of a fiber material... It doesn't effect the bearings or gears... When the clutches wear out you can replace the clutches, they were originally sold by Chrysler & now are available through the aftermarket...
john-9
Well-Known Member
the clutch plates used in the clutch style sure grips are STEEL on STEEL ,,, NOT fiber at all ,, and when they wear the steel fragments still circulate thru the gear oil
Foghorn leghorn
Well-Known Member
Just came back from the speed shop doing my 8 3/4 diff overhaul. Took some pics of his funny car! Amazing! He will fill and redrill the axle flanges and upgrade the studs to 1/2 inch to give me more wheel options and modify my existing drums to fit. My old rally 14 inch wheels won't fit, so I'll have to move up the wheel and tire purchase. here's a pic of the car they are campaigning. It's waiting on the hoist for an even bigger engine!
timk225
Well-Known Member
I rebuilt several cone clutch sure grips years ago. I'd get a machine shop to take 0.100" off the outer ends of the cones, then make round donut shaped shim washers from thin metal to space the spider gears back into full engagement. Always worked great.
Foghorn leghorn
Well-Known Member
The shop reccommended and ordered in a clutch type. don't remember the name.
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
65TerrorCuda
Well-Known Member
Just looking at it, trying to convince myself it's alright. I couldn't do it. The way it was machined had the edge of the cross digging into the ramps. Looking at both sides they're off the same direction. You might get a better one than I did. Temu had them for $90 if I recall.
65TerrorCuda
Well-Known Member
Exactly. The angles machined into the carrier and/or pinion cross aren't a \ \_/ / with equal opposite angles. Might be okay but I didn't feel good about it.
Any idea if that's the way the OEM parts are?
65TerrorCuda
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately no, but the FSM shows how to measure ramp clearance with them being parallel in an illustration. And mine had zero clearance on one side and that's definitely out of spec. Might make a difference, might not.
I tend to overthink these things.
1WildRT
Well-Known Member
Zero clearance is normal, the spider cross can move... when it moves it will try to climb the ramps... When it climbs the ramp it loads the clutches.... cornering if you are off the gas the spiders are free to rotate, hit the throttle, put some torque through the thing & the clutches hook up...
The ramp angles should match, but I've seen plenty of originals that didn't... Ideal? No, will it still work? Yes...
The ramp angles should match, but I've seen plenty of originals that didn't... Ideal? No, will it still work? Yes...
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
I think i might buy the 180-200 special and give it a shot.
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