Sure Grip issues

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A few decades ago, I made the rounds and collected a pile of suregrips from local picNpulls. From the gleaned parts, I rebuilt several of those banged out cases;
I took them to my favorite local machine shop, who fixed the saddles up stronger than new. The cases were no longer a problem.
Finding good used guts, was.
After I cleaned up the cones, I restored the clearances with shims as was required, reset the cone-preloads to suit my combos. and then I stuck the reconditioned cases into various chunks from 2.76s to 4.30s, and from there into my cars, some of which were from 330 to 430 hp, and ran the crap out of them.
Some say that they are not rebuildable. ......... IDK what that's about. We recondition/rebuild 50/60/and 70 year old engines, transmissions , and carbs don't we? Com'on, compared to those, rearends are nothing.

I might still have one or two kicking around. Since yur practically next door, ............
I have spoken to a local recommended shop (Vogt Automotive) and they said they could rebuild the diff. If I run into any parts difficulties, I will gladly let you know!
 

The cone types by design wear into the cases.. Can you shim and make em work, sure. Can you make them good as new... Well, that's very subjective. Once the pins eat up the case halves is it really cost effective to stay with the 2 pinion gear vs upgrading to the 4 pinion powr lok? Only you can decide that. If it was my $'s I'd find a good used powr lok and replace the clutches, short of catastrophic failure they are 100% rebuildable. I'd take strength and longevity over it'll sorta work and might hold up any day.
 
Is this what I need? I'm out of my comfort zone when it comes to diffs. I'm up in Saskatchewan, so no Dr. Diff locations up here.

1pc Powr-Lok Sure-Grip Posi - Power Lock For Chrysler 8-3/4 - 8.75" - 30 Spline | eBay
A little late with my response, but here goes....
The chinese eBay versions are a crapshoot. You might get a good one, machined properly, you might not. I believe factory tolerance for runout of the ring (crown) gear is half a thousanth. Four thousandths has been reported for the chinese ones . Makes gear setup difficult, possibility of noise more likely.
Now, to be honest, I've got a 741 case 3.55 open, and I AM considering trying one of the eBay versions. I will LIKELY spring for Dr Diffs version.
 
A little late with my response, but here goes....
The chinese eBay versions are a crapshoot. You might get a good one, machined properly, you might not. I believe factory tolerance for runout of the ring (crown) gear is half a thousanth. Four thousandths has been reported for the chinese ones . Makes gear setup difficult, possibility of noise more likely.
Now, to be honest, I've got a 741 case 3.55 open, and I AM considering trying one of the eBay versions. I will LIKELY spring for Dr Diffs version.
I called a local speed shop with an excellent reputation here in Regina and will be dropping everything off this week. I will trust them to make the right call. Want to go with the clutch disc type for reliability.
 
I had one of those Ebay clutch dana jobs for a few days. Steer clear. Cross pins and ramps were machined wonky, you can even see it in the pictures if you look closely.
I have had good luck with the ones I have used. I mostly use old Dana Powrlok and renew them. But have gotten some eBay I ones when they first showed up on market before Dr. Diff stared getting them and going threw them. I would if in market get one from him instead if an orginal can't be sorced and rebuilt.
I have one eBay special 2-3 years ago I got in a parts deal. At this point that has been moved around the garage to many times that the plan is now to add it to a spare 276:1 with new bearings and races while apart to freshen. Versus leaving it a one legged pirate.
I do know I don't like the bolts they used to bolt the halves together. Just look cheap, but that's just because their cheap. The others I had were fine. But who knows the newer ones maybe crap.
I can get pictures of it if interested.
 
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