Sure grip swap

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dana type limited slip uses two spacers and a pin in the center of the diff to hold the axles apart , and it can't be adjusted enough to get rid of end play .
 
dana type limited slip uses two spacers and a pin in the center of the diff to hold the axles apart , and it can't be adjusted enough to get rid of end play .

Yes that PLUS we are not sure yet even which bearings he has. He said he was going to pull an axle tomorrow so we'll see.
 
There was nothing I said that was "wrong". Ask zigs how I described it in a PM. You MUST get all the free play on the passenger's side first. Which is what I told him. So, point out in my post where there was a mistake. There was none.

You said I was wrong! I just said end play should be the same on both sides
 
passenger side with adjuster does both bearings. With both wheels and drums removed push the passenger axle in all the way until it has the bearing is seated tight in the race on the drivers side. Pull the passenger side in and out . That is the end play. I can do them by feel I did so many. You should just be able to feel the movement. Go to the drivers side and push it in and out It will be the same. The split buttons between the axles make them one solid length between the two races. So you are adjusting both sides at one time with the passenger side adjuster. Like I said to loose is better than to tight. Grease the bearings good before you install them . they are not lubed buy the differential oil. Take it for a ride and check the play again. This procedure must be done with both wheels and drums removed if you do not have experience.

It sounds like you are missing the two buttons and the split dowel pin. They are always missing when you buy a unit due to most people install green bearings.
 
You said I was wrong! I just said end play should be the same on both sides

That's correct. But you said nothing about getting all of the end play to one side FIRST. If you do not do that, your end result will not be correct. Leaving that info out, made you wrong, since leaving out that step will give the wrong result. Now, where was I wrong? Just because I said you were wrong?
 
That's correct. But you said nothing about getting all of the end play to one side FIRST. If you do not do that, your end result will not be correct. Leaving that info out, made you wrong, since leaving out that step will give the wrong result. Now, where was I wrong? Just because I said you were wrong?

Post #2 already said read the FSM, post #3 said Pass end play set, So if he did it right the drivers side will be the same, that's what I was referring to in post #4.
 
Post #2 already said read the FSM, post #3 said Pass end play set, So if he did it right the drivers side will be the same, that's what I was referring to in post #4.

It will not be the same unless he taps the driver's side axle in FIRST to get all of the end play on the passenger's side, where the adjuster is.

Regardless, all this may be a moot point, IF ha has a Dana Power lock as he has hinted to, OR he has green bearings or both.
 
It will not be the same unless he taps the driver's side axle in FIRST to get all of the end play on the passenger's side, where the adjuster is.

Regardless, all this may be a moot point, IF ha has a Dana Power lock as he has hinted to, OR he has green bearings or both.

If you taps the drivers axle in it will take the play out of the pass bearing and will put all the play on the drivers side.
I just tighten the adjuster down so there is no play on ether side and loosen it up so there is a little play, it's done.
 
If you taps the drivers axle in it will take the play out of the pass bearing and will put all the play on the drivers side.
I just tighten the adjuster down so there is no play on ether side and loosen it up so there is a little play, it's done.

Ok.
 
If you taps the drivers axle in it will take the play out of the pass bearing and will put all the play on the drivers side.
I just tighten the adjuster down so there is no play on ether side and loosen it up so there is a little play, it's done.

Looks to me if you drive the drivers side in you just took all the play out of the drivers side.
Then you can adjust the passenger side and be done with it.
 
Looks to me if you drive the drivers side in you just took all the play out of the drivers side.
Then you can adjust the passenger side and be done with it.

That exactly what the FSM article says that HE posted HIMSELF. LOL
 
There was nothing I said that was "wrong". Ask zigs how I described it in a PM. You MUST get all the free play on the passenger's side first. Which is what I told him. So, point out in my post where there was a mistake. There was none.
Rusty's PM to me was by the book and no need to argue , not worth it.
 
Rusty's PM to me was by the book and no need to argue , not worth it.

Thanks, I am wonderin where it's comin from myself. Is it a full moon?
 
Moving on . Couldn't wait tell tomorrow to take picture. I'm getting good at pulling axles. Here's what I got . I bet I'm going to have to buy buttons

IMG_20191024_190955040_HDR.jpg


IMG_20191024_191009318_HDR.jpg
 
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Well, them ain't green bearings. lol Now, is this a clutch style Dana Powerlock unit?
 
Well, them ain't green bearings. lol Now, is this a clutch style Dana Powerlock unit?
Clutch 8 3/4 powr-lok as by Dr Diff. The bearings were on the axles when I pulled them for the swap. this is compete new stuff no used parts other then bearings shown and no thrust buttons
 
Clutch 8 3/4 powr-lok as by Dr Diff. The bearings were on the axles when I pulled them for the swap. this is compete new stuff no used parts other then bearings shown and no thrust buttons

Ok. I think you should call Cass and see what he says. I believe that whoever said the end play cannot be adjusted with your Power Lock is correct. I have read that elsewhere. Cass can advise you for sure. That way, you are going straight to the horse's mouth. Good luck man. Let us know what you find out.
 
That exactly what the FSM article says that HE posted HIMSELF. LOL

LOL I'm not going to argue the fact, but It says tap the left axle in to seat the right wheel bearing cup against the adjuster. That means it's taking all the play out of the right axle bearing.
if you move the left axle in it's moving the bearing away from the race or cup call it what you will, so now the play is on the left side. get it.
 
When ordering a diff off Dr.Diff's website, I believe it asks you if you have tapered roller bearings, or green bearings.
 
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