swapping in a 440, what bell to use?

[moparman111]

Hi, I currently have a 67 Barracuda with a 318 and a 4spd. I am going to be swapping in a 440 soon and want to have all my ducks in a row before I ever start pulling anything. I want to know the exact bell I need to find. Not sure if they are different than from say B or E bodies. I have a couple different ones (mostly truck) but only a couple car. If I know all car bells are the same it wont matter. I am not sure what flywheel I may need to use but I believe I need to use a 10.5" as per TTI website for their headers. Its a street car that may see some track time once the 440 is in. I will need an externally ballanced flywheel. I guess I will discuss with Brewers Performance if I dont get much info on here. Any helpful info is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[67Dart273]

I don't know how many car BB bells there are, but there are at least TWO

My 69 RR had a "real" 11" clutch, but my 70 440-6 had a smaller bell, with a flywheel drilled for the same as a 10.5" cover. That year they used that fake 10 7/8 "scalloped" pressure plate. I had a lot of trouble with it and do not like 'em. The problem is that the edges of the cover are too close to the disc, and after a few hard shifts "fuzz up" the outer edge of the disc, the PP tries to grab it

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1969798974

 

[moparman111]

Thank you for the heads up. I am considering a Hays 10.5" clutch #85-301 as its a street/strip heavy duty unit and doesnt require modifying the center spring.

As for my question I guess I was really referring to is there any differences in the bells from the pivot ball location stand point?

 

[desmo900]

If you are going with a factory bellhousing you need a 2468372, there is another one that will work but I can't remember the part number.

 

[moparman111]

Thanks Desmo. What makes this bell the one to use? Is its pivot ball location in the needed spot? Is it compatable with a 10.5" clutch? Thanks

 

[hemi446]

I going through this with a friend of mines RR in a A-Body you need a 10.5 clutch and flywheel the easiest way to tell the difference is the 11" flywheel has 143 teeth and the 10.5 has 130 teeth if you use a bigger bell housing the starter while not line up with the flywheel so no start. The factory A-Body bell housing is cast iron and very heavy but it has both bolt holes for the plate to mount the ball stud for the z bar. I used an aftermarket bell housing from Brewer it is much nicer than the factory one and it works great with the 10.5 flywheel and you just need to tell them the diameter of the front bearing retainer depending on the input shaft side 18 or 23 spline. The runout was almost zero when checking the center line of the crankshaft and the input shaft of the transmission. This is very important when it comes to high rpm shifts. Keep in minded depending on how fast you want to go you may need a blow proof bell housing at the track so just go with a Lakewood or a Quick Times depending on your budget. Hopefully this is helpful good luck

 

[Brad4406]

Are you stuck on a stock bellhousing instead of a blowproof bellhousing? If not, I'd go blowproof instead. I've never seen a clutch come apart and come up through the floor, but I don't ever want to see it either. I guess if you never plan to put slicks on it, it probably wouldn't matter, but I'd never run a clutch without one. It's one of those deals where it only has to happen once.

 

[Greg55_99]

I used a stock BB 10.5" bellhousing (like this one) with the two positions for ball studs and fabbed up my own pivot for the Z bar.

Pretty simple.

Greg