Swapping master cylinders

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salinasjoel

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I was wondering if anyone could shed some knowledge on me. I am re-doing the brake lines, and putting new shoes on my car. I figure since I am doing this anyway I might as well upgrade to a dual reservoir master cylinder as well. My questions are as follows:
1: Is this bolt right up or will I need a bracket of some sort?
2: Do I need a proportion valve?
3: Do I need a new push rod?

It's a 65 Dart with manual brakes.
Thanks
Joel
 
The M/C will bolt right up,and the push rod will work fine.
There is a couple ways of doing this.
One way is to use the stock distribution block from your 65,for the fronts only.
The hole in the block that goes to the backs is plugged.
Then run a completely seperate line from the M/C to the back brakes,with
An adjustable proportion valve in line.

The other way would be to copy a dual M/C car,like the factory did.
 
The M/C will bolt right up,and the push rod will work fine.
There is a couple ways of doing this.
One way is to use the stock distribution block from your 65,for the fronts only.
The hole in the block that goes to the backs is plugged.
Then run a completely seperate line from the M/C to the back brakes,with
An adjustable proportion valve in line.

The other way would be to copy a dual M/C car,like the factory did.
Thanks for the quick response.
How did the factory run it if you don't mind?
 
I just did some thing like that on a friends 64 Buick Specail, you can buy a distribution block from in line tube for like 40.00 plus shipping so that the front and rear are separate. I think I have $300.00 in to it with all new stainless brake lines and fuel lines
 
So I am putting my rock auto cart together to get the car parts to make my car drivable. I am ordering new wheel cylinders I know I need, new flex lines, I'm having new hard lines made, I am ordering the mc for a 68 dart with the dual bowl, but I can't find where they have the brake distribution block listed anywhere? Any suggestions? Does rock auto not cart this part?
Thanks
Joel
 
BTW I just did the same thing to my 66 cuda. But mine is a Power assist setup and I had to relocate the distribution block due to the headers. Otherwise it exactly like johnny dart said.

good luck!
 
I did this to my 65 Dart, plus added a vaccum booster so I can easily add front disks later. I put a booster/MC from a ~99 Breeze on Dart stand-off brackets. The 4-hole manual MC from a 68 Dart should bolt up. Many use a later 2-hole alum MC on a $50 adapter plate (see posts).

For drum-drum brake cars, the distribution block had just a pressure imbalance sensor between the front and rear lines. It lit a warning light, which you don't have. In many cars it became stuck with rust and didn't work anyway, and is tricky to adjust. In sum, you don't need it.

Front disk cars, had an additional proportioning valve (pressure reducing) in-line w/ the rear brakes. It was a separate piece in early dual MC's and by 1969 (earlier?) integrated into the distribution block. You only need that for front disks. Best to get a new $25 adjustable one like I did and mount up high near the MC.

As mentioned, use your 65 block for just the front brakes and plug the rear port. You can get a 3/16" inverted flare plug and a 1/4" male to 3/16" female adapter in bubble packs at Autozone. You need the later if your MC has a 3/16" tube as all (?)later ones did. Just because the nut fits doesn't mean the fitting is correct. Also get a 3/16-3/16 union for the rear if connecting to the existing tubing (I did), or run new tubing.

Let WD-40 soak in for a few days and work the nuts back and forth. Otherwise, count on shearing a tube and have a dbl flare tool ready to repair it.
 
I did this to my 65 Dart, plus added a vaccum booster so I can easily add front disks later. I put a booster/MC from a ~99 Breeze on Dart stand-off brackets. The 4-hole manual MC from a 68 Dart should bolt up. Many use a later 2-hole alum MC on a $50 adapter plate (see posts).

For drum-drum brake cars, the distribution block had just a pressure imbalance sensor between the front and rear lines. It lit a warning light, which you don't have. In many cars it became stuck with rust and didn't work anyway, and is tricky to adjust. In sum, you don't need it.

Front disk cars, had an additional proportioning valve (pressure reducing) in-line w/ the rear brakes. It was a separate piece in early dual MC's and by 1969 (earlier?) integrated into the distribution block. You only need that for front disks. Best to get a new $25 adjustable one like I did and mount up high near the MC.

As mentioned, use your 65 block for just the front brakes and plug the rear port. You can get a 3/16" inverted flare plug and a 1/4" male to 3/16" female adapter in bubble packs at Autozone. You need the later if your MC has a 3/16" tube as all (?)later ones did. Just because the nut fits doesn't mean the fitting is correct. Also get a 3/16-3/16 union for the rear if connecting to the existing tubing (I did), or run new tubing.

Let WD-40 soak in for a few days and work the nuts back and forth. Otherwise, count on shearing a tube and have a dbl flare tool ready to repair it.

I have drum-drum so is your recommendation use my current distribution block for my front brakes and a proportioning valve inline to my rears?
 
I have drum-drum so is your recommendation use my current distribution block for my front brakes and a proportioning valve inline to my rears?

Yes, easiest to use your current distribution block. You could install a 3-port T, but it won't have a bracket to bolt to the frame.

No, you don't need a proportioning valve with drum-drum. I installed one in my current drum-drum setup, but only so I won't have to add it if and when I change to front disks.
 
Four down on page, 67 – 74 factory distribution block.
http://www.megapartsusa.com/products.asp?cat=3&pg=6
 
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