Switches, connectors, control units in 72 A body

-

72ScampTramp

Scamp Tramp
Joined
Jan 13, 2009
Messages
4,406
Reaction score
172
Location
Fort Dodge Iowa
Ok so im new at this and building my first car. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=111522.

Now my question is im fairly new to these cars. Been working on my for about 3 years but the only one I have worked on. Looking for a list of switches, connectors, regulators I will need for the electrical system. I do realize this is a odd question but would like to buy new ones. I do have a wiring diagram. Also going with MSD ign, and Mallory Dist. No AC or heat. Failed to mention I have a 72 harness stock and also a 12 circuit aftermarket harness. Haven t decided which to use.
 
You have a shop manual? Download a 72 (and others!!) fer free here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual%2C+download

der linky

[ame="http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Misc.%20car%20info/1972%20Plymouth%20Chassis%20Serv%20Man.pdf"]http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Mis...Serv%20Man.pdf[/ame]

For the harness, for me, would be a no brainer. Put in the 12 circuit, get rid of the bulkhead connector (or run wiring straight through) and convert the ammeter to voltmeter

Ideas on ammeter to voltmeter, a simple project:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=119480&highlight=ammeter+conversion

On mine, I used a "used" Painless harness I got cheap, that someone had abandoned a project. I left such connections as the wiper connector in place in the bulkhead, and ran other wiring through the vacant connector holes

Mine ain't all the pretty, but I used a Voyager relay box, and you can buy new ones made by Bussmann which you can configure the way you want, for the underhood loads, ignition/ charging, fuel pump, high and low beam, and an extra for security, as well as a couple of spare sockets.

This one mounts very nicely to the front fender apron between the battery and washer tank

image.php


Some of this will also depend on whether you want a trunk mount battery, and plan on ever showing up at a dragstrip, as you must have certain safety 'stuff' in regards to a trunk mount battery
 
I actually left the amp meter in mine. but will run an aftermarket gauge. Now if I understand you correctly you used the relay box to cover and supply your under the hood. Does this take pressure off the rest of the system?
 
I actually left the amp meter in mine. but will run an aftermarket gauge. Now if I understand you correctly you used the relay box to cover and supply your under the hood. Does this take pressure off the rest of the system?

Yes a combination of things

Relieves stress on the ignition switch, which now continues to directly switch heater, wipers, radio (just the low power control head) and warning lights / gauges.

The heavier ignition/ regulator loads and fuel pump are run by relays

The headlight switch/ dimmer switch now simply turns on relays

So all that stuff that normally went through the bulkhead is now contained under the hood.

In addition (see the Mad article)

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

The only heavy wire going from engine bay into interior is now simply a battery feed, and much of that has been lightened by the relay box

The heavy charging current no longer goes through the bulkhead connector, a single no6 wire direct from alternator output to the starter relay battery stud.
 
-
Back
Top