T Bar in Distributor

[my5thmopar]

I didnt mark the T Bar I pulled it out of the STOCK distributor.:banghead: I'm welding the slots as suggested to limit the mechanical advance. I'm not running vacuum. I thought the T Bar was the same but, I didn't account for the rotor. How do I get the proper orientation of the rotor slot to the rest of the distributor. How do I keep it from being 180 out. Make sense what I'm asking?

 

[gliderider06]

It shouldn't matter. The t-bar will go back the same way. As long as you remember where the rotor pointed before pulling the distributor, just put it back the same way. Why are you not going to run vacuum advance?

 

[67Dart273]

The only orientation the "T bar" cares about is it's orientation to the points cam or the reluctor. Any change or improper installation, or improper MANUFACTURING between the T bar and the reluctor will change rotor phasing.

The T bar can go on either way, does not matter.

What are you doing about the vacuum? The vacuum advance / advance plate in the dist. DOES change rotor to cap phasing. So if you are eliminating the vacuum, and brazing/ otherwise pinning the advance plate in place, you need to make an effort to position the plate for best phasing

You don't have to have a running engine for this, you can "rig" a piece of hose and drive the dist. with a drill. Take a scrap cap and cut/ drill/ break it so you can see a plug contact, and "rig" up an ignition system. Ground all unused plug towers, and run your "view" tower to a wire and plug for a gap. Hook up your timing light, shine it through the view port, and you can easily see what the rotor phasing is up to.

I have not tried this, but if I were I think I'd investigate a "lean burn" dist. and use your mechanical advance with the lean burn advance plate, which is already fixed.

 

[my5thmopar]

I've read that the total should be in the 32-38 MAX depending on what the cam likes for initial. I just realized the vacuum on the old distributor had issues. I'll try hooking the advance back up after I get the slots adjusted. I get what you're saying about the T-bar, I can just spin the shaft and drop back in. Thanks.