T56 input shaft trimming

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cu440da

cu440da

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Initial test fit to my 5.7 looks like I will need to shorten the input shaft a bit. Before I do this I figured I had better ask a few questions about it.

Is there a difference in the depth of the pilot holes between manual and automatic cranks?

Is it possible to have the crank pilot drilled deeper to avoid having to trim the input?

Those of you who have trimmed your inputs- how much did you take off?

How much would be considered too much?


I am waiting for a new block plate from Quicktime (bell shipped with wrong one) and would like to be ready to bolt the T56 up and do some fitting when the right one gets here.
 
About a 1/4 inch more than the gap between the trans case and the bell housing.
You can cut it off with almost anything,(hack saw, cut off wheel, hand grinder)

You want to taper the sharp edges also at aprox 45 degress, so I would grease the input shaft and slide it in as far as it will go into the pilot and pull it back out to make sure you have plenty of shaft there.
(just to help verify that you will still be all the way into the pilot after the cut.)
Polish any surfaces on the input shaft that are not nice and smooth.

Lithium grease the splines lightly (oppinions vary on this), as well as the pilot (I like to fill the crank pilot hole behind the bushing about 1/3 of the way)
Too much and the shaft won't want to go in all the way.
 
Trail Beast is correct.

Go very easy on the grease though, a tiny bit on the splines will help with assembly, a bit on the pilot bushing helps with assembly as well.

Too much can get thrown off the assembly as it rotates onto the clutch surface, definitely not a good thing.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Joe Dokes said:
Trail Beast is correct.

Go very easy on the grease though, a tiny bit on the splines will help with assembly, a bit on the pilot bushing helps with assembly as well.

Too much can get thrown off the assembly as it rotates onto the clutch surface, definitely not a good thing.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
Click to expand...

I just use a small paint brush with a little for the splines (barely see it on there actually)
The theory on that besides assembly, is that when the clutch disc get released it does'nt bind on the splines causing dragging on the flywheel and crunch going from neutral into reverse.
Some believe that once installed the disc never moves on the splines but that is not true. (it moves a small amount under normal driving.
 
Sounds good.

Forgot to ask- what are you using for pilot bearings/bushings? I would assume that the pilot from a 2010 5.7 manual Challenger would be the ticket, but I have been wrong more often than not lately...
 
I used the old register style conversion bearing for a standard small block on my setup. Ended up trimming the shaft maybe 1/2" or something like that, did it a while ago and didn't record anything. I bolted the bellhousing on the trans and measured the input shaft relative to the front face (including block plate), then measured the flywheel and pilot hole depth from the rear face of the block to get an idea of where I needed to be. Took off a little extra so I wouldn't be bottoming out in the pilot hole.

Depending on what spec transmission you got though those can be some tough mothers. I got a Viper takeout trans and the shaft on that sucker was hard as a rock. Took quite a while chopping it off with a cutoff wheel. I can't imagine doing it with a hacksaw, I'd probably still be at it if I did, lol.
 
I am beginning to think you may be right. My mini starter is hitting the block and wont fit on the bellhousing. Figures.
 
It's been done before. I'm sure the boys here on FABO have the answers and a starter option that will work. I'd be happy to help. Well, happy is a strong word, but let me know if you need a hand.
 
I hope the input shaft deal is a cast crank 5.7 issue. The regular factory mini starters interfere with the block. People either grind the block for clearance or use an 05 Ram 2500 5.7/5 speed starter.
 
72BBSwinger said:
or use an 05 Ram 2500 5.7/5 speed starter.
Click to expand...

I was just at the Dodge dealer and had him look up the starter. He showed same part for 1500, or 2500, auto, or manual. I bought one. Guess what doesnt fit on the bellhousing?

Do you have a part # that you used? I would rather not grind the block for the mini starter if there is actually one that fits.
 
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