tail panel swap

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SRT_DSTRHOLC

SRT_DSTRHOLC

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When you first take the lead off to put the new one on and then finally get the new one on, how do you prefer to fill the seams? Use new lead or what? I have never worked with lead, so I would not know what to do. Any help would be great.:prayer:
 
i have used what is called all-metal. has held up great for me
 
you would have to get it at a autobody supply shop
 
I just used the regular bondo I used everywhere else on the car. No problems.
C
 
340plot said:
i have used what is called all-metal. has held up great for me
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When we did our buddy's 72 Duster 340 car, after the lead and the old panel was removed, and re-installed an NOS one, we re-leaded all the original seam's,
but their is a knack to it, not likely for most people to do it that way. Like 340plot said...... go buy a quart of USC All Metal, you have to go to a very good auto body supply store to buy it. Last time I checked, it was like 25.00 my cost per quart, which is ridiculous, nothing you can do about it. NOTE: To make your job easier when using this All Metal, TRY to put it on the panel, when you have time to work with it......... as the longer this stuff is on without being sanded down, it can get very hard to sand, like sanding on a field stone rock!!!!!!!!! Good luck with your adventure.
 
I did a search for: anaheim auto paint supplies and there's tons of them in your area. If they sell the paint they will sell all the other supplies you need including the filler. The seam under my 70 Swinger's vinyl top was more like seam sealer than any other type of filler. No lead. I scraped it out and we media blasted it to the bare metal. After fixing the missed factory welds we used All Metal to fill the seams. The stuff is ridiculous. Great filler and very strong. Just use the internet and search suppliers in your area. We live in BF Nowhere and our local PPG supplier has it. You can certainly find it in Orange County.

Have fun!!!
 
That's why Al Gore invented the internet, check Amazon.

All-metal is kind of a ***** to deal with, the hardner is the same color as the filler. Try Duraglas, Everglass etc. both easier to work with same stuff short strand fiberglass.
 
O'riellys and Autozone has All-metal. NEVER use Bondo!! I am a Master in the collision and restoration field. Take my advice! Bondo will bite you everytime! Bondo is for BUTCHERS!! Be sure to weld the seam completely! Don't rely on just the spotwelds. The spotwelds will allow movement therefore crack any filler that you applied!
Fill with All-metal and finish with Evercoat glaze for a perfect no hassle repair! Be sure to use a good seam sealer on the inside of the trunk area on all the factory seams. You must seal the seams or you will get choked by exhaust fumes!

Do it right the first time!
 
PoisonDart74 said:
All-metal is kind of a ***** to deal with, the hardner is the same color as the filler.
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Um, the hardener that comes with All-metal is orange! The filler is gray. Like stated before, it is very hard to sand the longer you wait! I usually allow it to kick for 10 minutes or so and sand with 40 grit or buzz it down with a angle grinder with a 36 grit disc then apply the evercoat glaze. Start sanding the glaze with 80 grit to knock off the sticky surface then finish with 180 grit. Prime then sand with 400 to 600 grit wet/dry paper. Seal it then shoot the color and clear if that is the route yor are taking.
 
The car is at paint, so what ever the body guy wants to use to fill it in is his choice. He is a old school low rider guy, so I trust him with body work because I know how picky they can be with paint and perfect lines etc.
 
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