Tearing apart hemi 5.7, machine work worth it?

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If you are low on cash, you are really going after high dollar build-ups!
How about a warmed up 360?

A bone stock 5.7 will out-perform a "warmed up 360" all day & get better fuel economy to boot.

You guys are paying too much for your 5'7s.

A good 5.7 short block can be had for about $400 if you know where to look.

Nothing wrong W/a stock pre '09 rotating assembly. with the right heads & such it can make 500 HP.

Been there, done that. 426RWHP, 460 RWTQ. 26 MPH on the h-iway in a 4300# LX.
 
I think you'd probably be way in over your head with a V10 in the long run. Pretty sure the little things will keep adding up and make things a pain. For instance, the gen 1 engine controllers can't be tuned (easily at least), so you may have some issues there. On top of that I'm not sure the engine will run correctly without the rest of the vehicle electronics (instruments, etc.). Plus you'll have to come up with your own custom exhaust since I'm fairly sure no one makes anything of the sort off the shelf (might be able to use SRT10 truck manifolds though).

I went with a 5.7 swap myself and it can be done a lot cheaper than some people make it. I originally went with a carb swap because I didn't want to spend the extra money to update the whole fuel system to high pressure, but I've since swapped back to EFI (Megasquirt) once I got a job out of college and had some disposable income. My engine had a trashed cylinder from a dropped valve seat, so in the end I had the bad cylinder sleeved and replaced the bad piston and head. All in I had the car on the ground running with a carb for maybe around $5k (cost of engine, machine work, swap parts, etc.). A lot of that money is just little parts adding up (things like gaskets and bearings that aren't really aftermarket yet, so the local dealer is happy to screw me, belts, pulleys, etc add up in the long run as well). I splurged a little as well with a set of headers, so you could do it even cheaper with stock exhaust. I didn't have any electronics or wiring to start with though, so I bet it could be done even cheaper with a junkyard takeout since you'd mostly just need swap parts (motor mounts, oil pan, flywheel/flexplate, and whatever your engine might be missing).

The nice thing about the Hemi over the old small blocks is the potential in them. Sure you can get an old small block to 400-500 hp, but you have to build them pretty stout to get there and wind them pretty high. You can get a 5.7 to 400 with just a cam. The newer engines are just more efficient, end of story.
 
^^^^this is true no doubt but if cost is an issue, go with the small block route...


Warmed up 360 ftw:mrgreen:

1) you ALREADY HAVE the block!
2) You want 500 PROVEN hp? Here you go:

http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/4feb2008smallblock426strokerdynotest.php

3) You can still say you have the magic number, 426!!!!
4) Or just build a 408, make 500 easy hp with Dr. J's airwolf heads and be in it only about $4.5K ready to go!!!
 
A bone stock 5.7 will out-perform a "warmed up 360" all day & get better fuel economy to boot.


Been there, done that. 426RWHP, 460 RWTQ. 26 MPH on the h-iway in a 4300# LX.

I'm sure you meant 26 MPG!

I have to agree with you about the potential these Hemi's have! If Ma' Mopar was to put one in a 3200# car, lets say a new Dart?? That my friend would be the fastest thing on the street coming off the showroom floor!! The FJORD 5.0 would be a speck of dirt in the mirror LoL...

I don't see why the stock 6.1 shorty headers wouldn't work in a A-body?? They dump the same way stock smallblock mannies do!

I thought I might regret trading my BB Cuda for my SRT8, Not a chance!! 12.70's in a brick with a/c, comfy leather sofa seats, 2 screens with DVD including 600+ watt 5.1 Surround and 13 Kickers bangn'. Not to mention 160mph+ capable when I feel like it!!

When I do decide to build another "OLD" Mopar, it will have a SRT8 Donor car for engine/trans and anything else I can make fit!
 
thanks for the info. I am now at a cross roads. I may just be getting rid of the dart and all the parts.
My parents are thinking of giving me the family 55' belair....and im a mopar guy thru and thru...but a shoebox? you betcha. Hello belair, goodbye dart.
 
......talk about a roller coaster thread! 5.7 to V10 to scrap it all and go with a Chevy Belair. lol.
 
I'm sure you meant 26 MPG!
I don't see why the stock 6.1 shorty headers wouldn't work in a A-body?? They dump the same way stock smallblock mannies do!

There are a few different options with exhaust for the swap. I believe the easiest fit variety are the truck manifolds (maybe Jeep, I can't remember), but I believe they dump pretty close to the firewall. They offer the best clearance near the block though. Some have had luck with the LX car manifolds, but you have to take a bit of a chunk (not real bad) out of the passenger frame rail for clearance. The shorty 6.1 manifolds have come up several times, but I think the main issue with them is the flanges. They're pretty dang big and I think they tend to get into stock steering boxes pretty quick. If you go with an aftermarket K member with rack and pinion your options open up quite a bit though.
 
There are a few different options with exhaust for the swap. I believe the easiest fit variety are the truck manifolds (maybe Jeep, I can't remember), but I believe they dump pretty close to the firewall. They offer the best clearance near the block though. Some have had luck with the LX car manifolds, but you have to take a bit of a chunk (not real bad) out of the passenger frame rail for clearance. The shorty 6.1 manifolds have come up several times, but I think the main issue with them is the flanges. They're pretty dang big and I think they tend to get into stock steering boxes pretty quick. If you go with an aftermarket K member with rack and pinion your options open up quite a bit though.

6.1 exhaust manifold will also work on the 5.7 if the EGR port in the right head is blocked off.

Also, JBA "shorty" 5.7 headers should fit if the stock 6.1 headers do.

If it were me, & extensive mods weren't in the plan, I would go W/a pre -'09 5.7.

W/stock (pre -'09)head castings milled .030" on the stock rotating assembly you get 10.4:1 CR W/.035" quench.

You can crank the timing to 'em W/O spark knock & srayed mine W/a 175 sot W/O KR until the trans shifted to 4th & even then there was only 4° of spark retard.

You can make 500HP @ the crank (mine made 426 RWHP 460 RWTQ) on a stock rotating 5.7 W/a mild cam, a good set of heads mated to a 6.1 intake manifold, headers, etc.
 
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