Temperature gauge problem

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leblanc

leblanc

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Dieppe, New Brunswick, Can.
All last year my temp gauge worked fine, this year as soon as I turn the ignition key it goes to 100F so I tried a new gauge but I get the same results. The dash lights and gauge lights are the same as before. As far as I know nothing changed in the wiring. The car is a 1976 Dart Sport. Does anybody have any suggestions? It almost seems as if there was a voltage surge somewhere.
 
Maybe your Instrument Voltage Regulator is bad. It's mounted on the backside of your cluster.
Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator
2017-07-18_12-59-42.jpg
 
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Not sure of your daytime temperatures, but seems like 100 degree temperature reading at startup would not be too off the mark?
 
Cuda68Scott said:
Not sure of your daytime temperatures, but seems like 100 degree temperature reading at startup would not be too off the mark?
Click to expand...

Down where you live I would be wondering why it was reading so low. :D
Even up here my mechanical gauge reads 100+ this time of year when I get in the car.
I have had it read 125 once before the car was ever started.
 
Seen this several times before. Wild needle swing is the result of a faulty instrument voltage regulator. At switch on it should throw a little more current to heat up the fuel gauge but not soooo much that it cooks the temp gauge.
 
I can reach up and feel around behind the cluster, but I think it would be difficult to remove and replace the regulator.
 
The regulator is plugged in with the 3 heavy male spade terminals on it but...
Theres a little round part called noise suppression capasitor that also has a spade terminal on a short length of wire. This one is plugged into the same center of 3 female slots with the regulator. So... Reach under there and pull the regulator, the lead from noise cap may stay in place or it may come out. If it comes out and not put back where it goes you could have a pop noise in the radio speaker. More importantly, A loose/intermittent connection since that female has been stretched to fit 2 males. Those are special fancy springy female terminals sort of like whats in a wall outlet. They widen tolerances in limiter construction/male fitment, absorb vibration, etc... The weight of the limiter would probably crack rigid solder connections over time. Too much info I'm sure. Anyway... Some owners have successfully exchanged that limiter laying upside down in the seat, whatever. Others pull the inst' panel to geter done. Then there are those who pull the panel and replace the OEM mechanical limiter with a solid state regulator. Good luck however you proceed.
 
Change the temp sender and see what happens.
If that doesnt work, while at parts store see if there is a local mopar friendly midget. Skirts preferred.
 
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