Testing Starter

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You are welcome. Too bad we aren't "all local" I could teach you all more in 1/2 hour that I can on here, and I mean simple basics so you can figure these things out. But I myself have been fooled. years ago, I put a brand new battery in a 'rig.' The battery posts looked GREAT nice and clean. Damn thing would not even light the headlights. There was enough oxide on one post that it acted as an insulator.
 
67Dart273 said:
You are welcome. Too bad we aren't "all local" I could teach you all more in 1/2 hour that I can on here, and I mean simple basics so you can figure these things out. But I myself have been fooled. years ago, I put a brand new battery in a 'rig.' The battery posts looked GREAT nice and clean. Damn thing would not even light the headlights. There was enough oxide on one post that it acted as an insulator.
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I appreciate all the help. This is my first classic and the troubleshooting is a little bit different than I'm used too on more modern cars that's for sure. Either way learning more as I go.
 
Good result. "Replace everything" usually works, and is what shops like to do on your dollar. Had you placed the blk lead right on the BATT neg post, you might have found your battery was holding 12.6 V and the drop was thru the connections. I hope the parts store tested your battery before selling a new one.

Funniest "won't crank" issue I had was helping a friend at night in an apartment parking lot. We were both new employees in temp housing, so had few tools at hand. He couldn't get anything from his new battery. Finally, he got a flashlight, looked close and found he had left the black plastic cap over the neg terminal. Cranked fine after that.
 
BillGrissom said:
Good result. "Replace everything" usually works, and is what shops like to do on your dollar. Had you placed the blk lead right on the BATT neg post, you might have found your battery was holding 12.6 V and the drop was thru the connections. I hope the parts store tested your battery before selling a new one.

Funniest "won't crank" issue I had was helping a friend at night in an apartment parking lot. We were both new employees in temp housing, so had few tools at hand. He couldn't get anything from his new battery. Finally, he got a flashlight, looked close and found he had left the black plastic cap over the neg terminal. Cranked fine after that.
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I didn't replace everything, did all the work myself and used the advance auto 30% code online so they didn't make too much. But I charged the battery and tested it after I charged it and then again after they charged it. Failed both times. it ready 11.5 volts and 14 CCA when it was tested the first time. After they put it on the charger and tested it only registered 181CCA out of 690 CCA that it was supposed to have. But for me replacing the cables and battery seemed the better idea for the long run.
 
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