TF-2 install

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Orionsax7

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Just got a TF-2 transgo shift kit for my 727 and I have a question. After reading through the instructions, they make it seem that some mods should only be done on race only vehicles. My car is a street/strip car. Exactly how hard do the shifts become? Any feedback from those of you who have done everything in the instructions on shift quality and feel?

One of the hole sizes in particular says to drill out only if you have a high stall convertor. How high they talking? I have a 2800 stall...

Also if you could give approx time of installation, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks.
Alex
 
I put the TF2 kit in my 727, but I haven't put it in the car yet. From others I've talked to, they aren't jerking shifts, just firmer especially the 2-3 shift. I installed the shift option as well, since I was putting the rest of that kit in. Just watch all those ball bearings and I would clean everything with 2+2 to get all the dirt out of the valve body. It didn't take all that long, the hardest part was putting in a new spring under the servo. Watch your diagram for drilling the holes, some state for TF1 & some for TF3 kits.

MY ADVICE: if you can find one, get a 518 (727 with OD) pan, it's deeper than Mopar's and TCI's deep pan for the 727, but it's steel and has no drain plug, I put a B&M drain plug kit in; it gives you a little more fluid to keep your trans running cooler. I was told DO NOT use type F fluid because it breaks down too quicky. Transgo also advises 1-2 containers of posi or sure grip additive to your fluid to stop any lock-up converter problems, BUT Mopars ATF+4 is set up to handle that, I would recommend using that.
 
Thanks for the info! I got ATF+4 waiting to go in. I have a few more questions but don't have the instructions with me right now. I'll post some tonight when I get home. Thanks.

Oh and I got the TF-2 kit from ebay for $60

-Alex
 
Alex first off your 2800 stall converter definetly classifies as a high stall converter. Anything above stock stall is considered high stall really. That being said don't be affraid that drilling out the holes to what they say will make it shift too hard per say. The loose converter will soften the shift some. That's probably the reason your instructions say to only drill out if you have a stall speed converter. I just re-read my TF-2 instructions from the last install I did in Feb. and it had nothing in it about only drilling some holes for a high stall converter. Maybe something new they're doing.

The only part I usually skip in the kit is the shift command feature. Since I deal with mostly street vehicles I see no logical reason to want to downshift into first gear at 100 mph.

BTW: The Transgo kits don't really make your trans. shift hard. Just nice and crisp.
 
I put one in a couple years ago with all the mods (inc. the shift command! :rock: ). It's in a '71 New Yorker w/the 440HP (healthy! :supz: ) It is pretty impressive the see/hear the 'ol beast chirp 2nd at WOT with 2.76 gears (open :toothy10: ).

Highly recommended! :burnout:
 
instaled one of those TF2 kits 3 years ago and i love it, when just driving around town you will hardly notice the shifts since your converter will take most of the hit when it shifts at low rpm but at full throtle it shifts real firm and at whatever rpm you set the gearbox to shift and it will keep on doing so basicly forever:)
 
I am planning to get a tf-2 kit for 904..what do you have to do to change spring in servo? my trans will still be in the car....is this spring change vital for the tf-2 kit to perform? thanks in advance....Jerry
 
chi6er said:
I am planning to get a tf-2 kit for 904..what do you have to do to change spring in servo? my trans will still be in the car....is this spring change vital for the tf-2 kit to perform? thanks in advance....Jerry
Click to expand...

Jerry if your talking about the spring in the front servo it's a piece of cake that takes me about 10 minutes. Now if your talking the spring and related mod in the rear servo it's a little more work. Both are ABSOLUTELY VITAL that you do the mods to the servos for the shift kit to work properly no if's-and's-or buts!!!. The rear servo mod is a step that not only makes your trans shift better but eliminates overlap. Overlap is detrimental to your transmissions life. If really isn't that hard to do the mod. Taking apart is as simple as unscrewing the band all the way and compressing the spring and removing a retainer and taking out the assy. Putting it back together takes a little more effort. Basically reverse the procedure and you'll need a large screwdriver to pop the band strut into place. Then you put your screw adjuster back in to hold things in. The instructions show clearly how to do it. Don't worry it's not that hard.

This mod is one of the best mod's to be done to a torqueflite because it is one of the problem areas of them. Yrs. ago when I first started installing shift kits in them before I knew about the Trans-go kits I had problems with them overlapping when manually shifting from 1st to 2nd and suspected the problem was with the rear servo holding the band on too long since the band was only active when manually shifting but didn't have the technoloy to do anything about it. When I found about Trans-go's kit I tried one and haven't had any problems with overlap and haven't looked back since. Won't use anything else here.
 
Fishy68

thanks for the info, I am going to get the kit and just really study the instructions.....I have a spare trans that I can practise on.....Jerry
 
chi6er said:
Fishy68

thanks for the info, I am going to get the kit and just really study the instructions.....I have a spare trans that I can practise on.....Jerry
Click to expand...
No problem Jerry. That's a good way to do it too. Practice makes perfect as they say. LOL
 
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