The barnfind 1965 Valiant resurrection thread.

[cerb]

A few interior photos.

Not the original stereo.

There are holes in the window posts behind the front seats, like it was prepared for three point seat belts (it has no belts at all), but there are no threads. What do you make of it?

I will be installing three point belts in it.




This is about the extent if visible rust on the body, though I’m sure more is hiding somewhere.

 

[mygasser]

those unthreaded belt holes probably had plastic bungs in from the factory.
neil.

 

[cerb]

The goal for today was to install the new ignition parts and get the engine running. Unfortunately I have a stuck valve, the intake valve on cylinder six. The result was a bent push rod, because I didn’t pay enough attention. Next project will be pulling the cylinder head to get the valve unstuck.

The brakes look surprisingly good!

Do you think I need a new steering wheel? Or maybe I should just weld it?

 

[mygasser]

before pulling the head, remove the rockers and give the valve tip a few good taps with a hammer. often it will free the valve up. worth a try anyway. make sure the piston's not at tdc when you do it, lol.
neil.

 

[cerb]

before pulling the head, remove the rockers and give the valve tip a few good taps with a hammer. often it will free the valve up. worth a try anyway. make sure the piston's not at tdc when you do it, lol.
neil.

Did that. It’s now stuck open rather than closed

If I’m unlucky I have a bent valve.

 

[mygasser]

keep dripping releasing oil/diesel on the valve stem (to run down into the guide) and give it a few taps every day. it might work.
neil.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Get some Seafoam Deep Creep penetrating oil and SATURATE the valve stem going into the guide. Keep doing it for several days. Then tap the valve tip gently with a hammer. I've gotten some REALLY stubborn ones loose like that.

 

[MDchanic]

Do you think I need a new steering wheel? Or maybe I should just weld it?

That's plastic. You can't weld it (unless you are transliterating the word "weld" but intending to mean something more like "glue").

The underlying steel structure should be fine.

There are people (some very highly skilled) who restore plastic steering wheels like this.
I've never used that service, but I'm sure there are others here who could make recommendations.

– Eric

 

[cerb]

That's plastic. You can't weld it (unless you are transliterating the word "weld" but intending to mean something more like "glue").

The underlying steel structure should be fine.

There are people (some very highly skilled) who restore plastic steering wheels like this.
I've never used that service, but I'm sure there are others here who could make recommendations.

– Eric

I could have sworn the steering wheel was made out of metal. Except the “chrome” parts.

 

[MDchanic]

I could have sworn the steering wheel was made out of metal.

It just feels like metal on a cold winter day.


Here you can see the steel frame inside the plastic, on the same wheel you have:

Here are a few links regarding fixing it yourself:

Steering Wheel Repair - What epoxy???

Gallery: Low-Buck Steering Wheel Repair On a 1967 Dodge Dart - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news, features and the latest Mopar tech

Steering wheel restoration - Studebaker Drivers Club Forum

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/steering-wheel-repair.954838/

Steering Wheel Restoration



A couple of US restorers, in case you feel you have too much money in your pockets (I have not used their services myself):

Chrysler Steering Wheels - Quality Restorations,Inc

Steering Wheels by Mike - Services


Good luck!

– Eric

 

[cerb]

It just feels like metal on a cold winter day.


Here you can see the steel frame inside the plastic, on the same wheel you have:

View attachment 1716372754


Here are a few links regarding fixing it yourself:

Steering Wheel Repair - What epoxy???

Gallery: Low-Buck Steering Wheel Repair On a 1967 Dodge Dart - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news, features and the latest Mopar tech

Steering wheel restoration - Studebaker Drivers Club Forum

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/steering-wheel-repair.954838/

Steering Wheel Restoration



A couple of US restorers, in case you feel you have too much money in your pockets (I have not used their services myself):

Chrysler Steering Wheels - Quality Restorations,Inc

Steering Wheels by Mike - Services


Good luck!

– Eric

Sweet! Thank you

 

[cerb]

The valve seems pretty determined to stay stuck, so I will lift the head. I’ll of course replace all the gaskets and the valve seals while I’m at it. Would you replace the valve guides too?

 

[MDchanic]

Would you replace the valve guides too?

I hate to tell you, as a European accustomed to aluminum heads, but there are no separate valve guides. They're just bored through the cast iron.

Whether to have the valve guide bores drilled out and replacement valve guides installed would depend of how the original bores measured out.

– Eric

 

[cerb]

Pulled the cylinder head today. Good thing I did! Are the bolts stretch bolts, or can they be reused?

 

[mpgmike]

They are not torque-to-yield. If they're in good shape, they can be reused.

 

[MDchanic]

Those cylinders and combustion chambers look pretty good.

Is there a piston ring ridge at the tops of the cylinders?

And, as Mike said, no stretch bolts on old US engines. Just regular old bolts.

– Eric

 

[cerb]

Those cylinders and combustion chambers look pretty good.

Is there a piston ring ridge at the tops of the cylinders?

And, as Mike said, no stretch bolts on old US engines. Just regular old bolts.

– Eric

Yes, they do look pretty good. I ran my finger over s few of them and couldn’t feel a ridge. I feel pretty good about getting it to run again.

 

[MDchanic]

Also, remember that the original head gaskets were thin steel shims.

Modern replacements are more than twice as thick, and will reduce compression significantly (about half a point if I recall, but don't quote me), so if you aren't able to find a head gasket of the original thickness, it would be a good idea to have the head shaved at least the amount of the thickness difference. If you measure the volumes of the cylinders at TDC and the combustion chambers in the head, you will probably find that you can afford to remove more and still be within the factory specification. (Factory-specified compression ratios in these, and most other American cars of the era were, as we say these days, "aspirational").

– Eric

 

[Icetech]

That looks like it will clean up nice

 

[mpgmike]

Most /6 heads can be milled at least 0.100", with 0.120" reasonable on many. Don't be afraid of milling a slanty head.

 

[cerb]

It’s slowly coming along. The head has been resurfaced, I’ve lapped the valves, cleaned everything, painted it, got a replacement exhaust manifold in good condition, painted that, and I rebuilt the carburetor. Today we replaced a bum engine mount. All that’s left now before reassembly is separating the old exhaust manifold from the pipe.

Does anyone know if this rubber hose on the fuel line is a repair, or the original installation? I can’t see the need for a flexible coupling as both ends of the pipe are attached to the engine.

And a few more of the painted parts

 

[4spdragtop]

Looks good! That rubber fuel line appears to be a repair. The giveaway is the clamps on it. They look newer style.

It’s slowly coming along. The head has been resurfaced, I’ve lapped the valves, cleaned everything, painted it, got a replacement exhaust manifold in good condition, painted that, and I rebuilt the carburetor. Today we replaced a bum engine mount. All that’s left now before reassembly is separating the old exhaust manifold from the pipe.

Does anyone know if this rubber hose on the fuel line is a repair, or the original installation? I can’t see the need for a flexible coupling as both ends of the pipe are attached to the engine.

View attachment 1716419761

And a few more of the painted parts

View attachment 1716419762
View attachment 1716419763

 

[MDchanic]

Does anyone know if this rubber hose on the fuel line is a repair, or the original installation?

The rubber fuel line is traversing the open space where the fuel filter is supposed to be.

– Eric

 

[cerb]

Things have progressed slowly, but it’s at least a constant progression. I had the cylinder head leveled, then lapped the valves and valve seats. I took the opportunity to clean and paint the parts I took off, and got a layer exhaust manifold in good condition.

I ran into a little snag with a broken off bolt as I was putting it back together and had to take the cylinder head off again. Now it’s back together again and I have a few more nights of work before I can try to start it. After that there’s work to be done on the brakes, and all the fluids need changing.

 

[69conv]

Impressive progress. She will be running in no time!