The dreaded amp meter.....

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gdrill

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I have read much about the amp meters being a problem in more than one way. I got my Scamp running and the amp gauge works but the temp gauge does not. The oil light comes on at start up and goes out when running. Because this is a driver not a show car I was considering putting in auxiliary gauges so I can have oil pressure, not just a "it's to late" light. If I do this is there a way to bypass the amp meter so I will not have any worries about it in the future. I have not tested the temp gauge yet to determine the problem, but I'm not really interested in taking the dash out to replace it. If it is the sender that is easy, but I ask this because I have heard about amp gauge failures that cause more problems down the line.
 
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
there are two pages, when you get to the bottom , click for the next

Thanx, I am printing off the pages (book) now. Wow!

Gas gauge work? If so it could be the sensor or just the temp gauge being faulty.

I have not put gas into the tank yet so I can't answer this. Everything electrical has worked so far with minor clean up. I just got to where the engine was ran until hot and saw the temp not reading. I had considered putting an oil pressure gauge in already, but with this failed temp gauge I figured all three would be just as easy.
 
The mad article is a good starting point, even if you do NOT bypass the ammeter. If you are restoring this "factory" and are not adding a bunch of hi current stuff, like a huge stereo, fuel pumps, electric fans, etc, and IF IF your ammeter connections and bulkhead connector are made good, then it will probably work just fine.

THE MAIN POINT is that these cars are getting old, and all these connectors are becoming damaged and corroded, loose, etc.

This thread is a fair read about the temp/ fuel gauge

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=207604&highlight=gauges

What you must understand about the temp/ fuel gauge AS A SYSTEM is that they are both supplied power through the voltage limiter, to each gauge, and then each gauge runs off to their respective senders.

The troubles can be:

In the bulkhead connector, where the temp sender wire goes through

Power to the cluster PC board from the ignition--poor board connections

Poor connections at the voltage limiter or a bad limiter

Poor connections at the gauges themselves

Poor connections in the temp sender wire at the bulkhead

Poor connections in the fuel sender at the kick panel connector

Poor connections at the wire/ sender connectors

Poor ground in case of the fuel gauge sender

Problems with the senders themselves, IE bad senders, rusty fuel sender, etc.
 
Thanx Del. I will be following the suggestions in those threads. I am going out right now to ensure the fuel system is actually grounded. As I said everything electrical has worked with minor clean up. Hopefully this is a ground issue. Then I will tackle upgrading things like the voltage limiter etc.
 
I wouldn't mess with the ammeter circuit at all until you get the car running and figure out the temperature gauge problem and/or the gas gauge issue. You don't need gas in the tank to check the gauge, simply pull the wire off the sender at the tank (you'll have to jack up the car first), ground the wire and have an assistant turn the key to "on". The gas gauge should peg full. Same deal with the temperature gauge. If neither work then you probably have a dashboard voltage regulator problem as explained above.
 
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