The Great White Brick - '69 Valiant

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They use lots of salt out east eh? Here too, but I think they use more out there. I think this type of operation on a car is only for those that want a challenge and some experience. That's why I bought my '69 Valiant. The easier softer way would have been to buy a cream puff 4-door Valiant and turn it into a 2-door with parts from this car, but there were no 4-doors around and we started. Of course, as luck would have it, I was out for supper last night with the local Mopar crowd and a guy has a cream puff 4-door '69 Valiant..........too late now though!

Your car looks about the same as what we've got here, I think it's doable. But again, you have to love doing it and enjoy the work or forget it and buy a California car. I think you might actually have more floor pan than what we had...we sure didn't have much! Measure everything! Measure and mark where the crossmember goes before you cut it out (but the new frame will dictate, you'll see what I mean). Like I said before, I think I'd try to rebuild your rockers a little before doing anything, then when they're pretty solid put jack stands under the front edge and drill out the front frame. We had a hard time manuevering the new front frame into place, but we got it. I was afraid the jack stands would be in the way, but they weren't. You definitely need two guys to get the new frame in.
 
Thanks 65S you are right they use a tone of salt here, I have to perlace complete floor from firewall to rear bumper. I think I can can get this done as long as I am carefull, take my time, and do't get overwhelmed. It is a chore but hey isn't everything. What did you use for your inside sills? Thanks again for your expertise!! Much appreciated. I only paid 100 bucks for the car with a slant six basket case that had some usable parts on it, thgats why I am trying it, I have stock piled quite a few parts over tha last couple of years so I will be set for cutting and building when I get my floor pans. Still need a 727 tranny and 83/4 posi though. I am sure I will have some more questions down the road. Thanks again! :thumbup:
 
We've only been working on the front of the car, not really touching the back half yet. Like you said, don't want to get overwhelmed. When I have time I crawl under the back and scrape off old undercoat and dirt, but we need to work our way from front to back, I suggest you do the same.

The replacement front frame I got didn't fit into the body exactly the same as the old frame. What I mean is, it fit but some of the "landmark" spots I had in my mind to use as line up spots were different! For example, there's a small fold in the frame right at the inner fender, where it folds and suddenly becomes visible at the front of the car, where it continues towards the radiator (under the battery on the drivers side). That part of the frame is painted. Know where I mean? That funny looking fold was in a different spot on the new frame, compared to the one we took out. Different spot by about 1cm maybe. I can only assume it's just a slight difference in manufacturing from plant to plant or day to day, or maybe worker to worker? I don't believe things need to be 100% perfect, just perfect enough that you can get the car aligned, and even then you could put the car on a frame straightener if necessary. Just make sure the front meets the rad sadle properly and that the torsion bar crossmember is square with the body. This is why we put ratchet straps on the crossmember, to pull it back ever so slightly to get our measurements right.

It's amazing how flimsy the body is once the frame is cut out, and amazing how rigid it is once the new frame is welding in. Good luck!
 
The problem is you are measuring in metric, and the car was built in good o'l boy inches. :) There ain't no centemeters on a Mopar!
 
flyboy01 said:
The problem is you are measuring in metric, and the car was built in good o'l boy inches. :) There ain't no centemeters on a Mopar!

Canadians and Finnish knows; measured in metric...
:toothy7:
 
I still use my 9/16'' and 1/2'' tools and 1/32'' measuring tools. :axe: :headbang: :salute:
 
i dont care what size it is.. i grab the closest pair of vise grips and remove nuts things that way. :toothy7:
 
Haha...okay okay, you got me. I use inches, my co-worker always uses metric for some stupid reason (his measuring tape has metric on it) so he's got me talking all this metric stuff. In school I remember them switching us and I didn't learn either one properly!

Maybe Mopar lingo would be better? The thingamajig is off the whachamacallit by a couple of c$%t hairs, so use your visegrips to move the little f#$ker!
 
I know exactly the spot you mean 65S. The ratchet straps is a good idea to snug the frame into exact location. I will be building my new front frame rails I'll probably never find any decent ones around here anyway. What did you use to fab your inner rockers out of? Your replacement piece looks to be in good shape! You couldnt have gotten that in Canada? Thanks again for the info. I will weld some rockers on first before dis -assembly!
 
Well things slowed down a bit. Tom went and got married and went away to Mexico and I went away to the West coast with my wife but now we're back on track.

Tom's been working feverishly on the floor/rockers/rear frame. The drivers side frame was bad, right where the spring mounts. He had to build all new **** inside and out, it's hard to tell from the photos.

The rear floor pan, under the seat is a complicated area too. Two layers of pan..........it's a nightmare! I'm telling ya, there IS something to be said about expensive rot free Arizona cars, I think it's the better choice.

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Here's the donor rear pan sitting in place. We'll use new front pans and we've got a donor tranny hump (came with the front frame) cut and ready to go in as well. This should all go a little quicker, lap joints instead of butt joints (knock on wood).

The black lines you see are Por-15 drip marks!

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I'm still in need of some parts if anyone can help.

Need black door panels, black sun visors (that clip to the center mirror), dual hood scoops, radiator, steering wheel. Probably other stuff but can't think.
 
Look's like you are getting with it!!!
She sure is coming along and your work look's Damned good.
Someone get this man some door panels :blob:
 
looking good, thanks for the pics, more to add to the cllection for my project, keep them coming, I have some blue visors that clip to the mirror if that is any good to you with the mirror setup as well, What type of steering wheel are you looking for?
 
I currently have the original '69 Wheel with lower half "deluxe" horn ring, but the wheel is very cracked. I'd like to keep it original, but I think this style of wheel tends to be highly desireable and expensive....same wheel used in Road Runners.
 
Should have just bought a car like this for all the work and trouble!

Ebay: 260095946993 A nice clean '69 Valiant 2-door!
 
Actually, truth be told (I may have said this before), I mostly bought this car because I knew my friend Tom would love it and would put his heart into it, which he has. He suffers from depression, especially in the winter and he needs something to keep him busy all winter. This is therapeutic for him. He's over the moon excited with the project! I just got all the paperwork together today to transfer ownership over to him.

So it's a project in the truest sense of the word.....something to keep us busy and learn on. If it turns into a great cruiser (which it will!) then that's bonus!
 
Your a good man Neil..... :goodman:

For yourself...just buy the blue Signet :lol: :lol:

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Oh man, that thing would be so SWEET! I'd love to park that in my driveway...the granola/tree hugging neighbours would freak out!
 
65s said:
Oh man, that thing would be so SWEET! I'd love to park that in my driveway...the granola/tree hugging neighbours would freak out!

Money talks...go for it :toothy7:
 
Man that thing is insane! I love to see a lil' Valiant hooked up like that! just gives me restored hope in my slow going project.
 
Floor pans are in! I don't have a photo of the new front section and hump, but it's all in there..just needs to be cleaned up then coated.

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If you look closely you'll notice this pan was from a Dart, which has a longer wheelbase. The extra length is a section attached to the rear of the pan, just before the rear seat hump. We carefully drilled all the spot welds and removed this section. The area circled in red is the area I'm talking about.

I'd also like to thank the poor blue donor Dart for donating its life to rescue this one.

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