That sucks and I hope you get it sorted out.
The heads are being put on now
- Thread starter jerry6
- Start date
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MopaR&D
Nerd Member
That's not terrible I'd still look at other places to spend the money first... Put the thinnest head gaskets you can
stroked340
Well-Known Member
What part number are your Edelbrock heads??
60179 , still want to get the extra hp left on the table and get the compression where it was or higher , that was the reason for alu heads get the highest compression using 89 octane gas with no pinging .
Using fel pro .039 thick gaskets now , what gasket can I use that is thinner , zero decked block mahle 10.5:1 forged pistons .
Maybe you're right , got my mind on the Ritter alu block to go with the heads , take some weight off the front end . And I know lots of money for little gain , but I want close to 50/50 weight distribution with as much HP and TQ as I can get on a RELIABLE car that I drive daily . Once in a while I take it to the 1/4 mile and the road course track , and I have the right tires for each situation , I don't ask for much .
Is all this worth the time and money ? Probably not , but it's what I'm going for .
Is all this worth the time and money ? Probably not , but it's what I'm going for .
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
Those are cool goals to be going after I ultimately want to do much of the same with my '70 Duster. However if you really want to get the most out of your car you need to look at everything from a 'bang for buck' perspective. Having 50/50 weight distribution will help your car handle but not as much as going through and upgrading certain key suspension and chassis parts. Do you have subframe connectors? Tubular upper control arms? Adjustable jointed strut rods? What kind of rear springs and overall ride height? I skimmed another thread saw that you might have done some other upgrades so far but there's still a lot left to be had from suspension and chassis tuning; an adjustable rear sway bar would help you get it handling "neutral" in the first place. Think about this before you go dump enough cash to buy another whole running & driving A-body on just aluminum parts to shave 100 pounds.
Being a young A-body fan who started out with zero experience I have learned by far the best knowledge from setting a clear goal of what performance I want from my car then getting the information from the guys who have the real experience to help get it in the most effective way. As in, people who I know have built strong-running race or street machine Mopars and engines not just "old muscle cars" in general.
I'm not building to win races , just to have some fun . Have all the parts listed but the tubular A arms , don't think they are needed . So far it's okay without the rear sway bar , but it might be needed . Like I said RELIABLE daily car that I can have a bit of fun with a few times a year . Besides it's only money and I'll probably die soon enough(close to 60 and had a hard life ) so wtf not going to worry it's not the best bang for the buck
And it is easier for me to get the alu block than lose 100 lbs , see I weigh 240-250 , plus it will be more one of a kind , not that I open the hood much , but I'll know it , that's all that matters . I tell people it's a 318 clone car all the time , they are not impressed , until they go for a ride or see it go .
And it is easier for me to get the alu block than lose 100 lbs , see I weigh 240-250 , plus it will be more one of a kind , not that I open the hood much , but I'll know it , that's all that matters . I tell people it's a 318 clone car all the time , they are not impressed , until they go for a ride or see it go .
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
OK I get ya now although I meant lose 100 lbs. off the car not necessarily yourself lol.
BTW I recommended tubular UCA's because the factory ones flex really badly under load and actually change dynamic alignment, they also have extra caster and camber built in.
Imagine if I lose 100 lbs and get the alu block . A few 10ths in the quarter and 200lbs less weight around the turns .
The upper control arms , I think I'd just reinforce the originals , I used to jump my Dart off railway overpasses , went off road and they lasted over 500,000 miles(on my 72 Dart) , never broke , they be good enough for me with a bit of reinforcing . Seen quite a few broken tubular UCA'S .
I'm in it for the fun .
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