The rubber keeper that goes on the brake pushrod.

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Dodgeboy68

Dodgeboy68

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I could not find one of these when I replaced the master cylinder. So I assembled it without one but debating if I should find one of these and install it. Doesn't seem necessary. Just wandering if any others here are doing this?

Roger
 
Why chance fate and have the last thing go through your mind on this earth be "Guess there WAS a reason for that thing"? It's three bucks for peace of mind- skip Starbucks and get gas station coffee for one day.
Mopar Manual Brake Push-Rod Retainer, Bushing, Clip Rubber Grommet
Heck, if you can't get one you can use a piece of rubber fuel line, fer Chrissakes.
 
I have seen race cars absolutely destroyed
by the pushrod falling out and a friend (Ken Etter) spend
weeks in the Hospital. We build an additional
stop to keep the pushrod in place ((just a piece of
sheet metal will do).
 
Are you talking about the bushing or the rubber boot?


mancini-racing-dual-inline-master-cylinder-207.jpg
mancini-replacement-pushrod-bushing-13.png

master-cylinders-6.png
 
The bushing is not a "need". Its only job is to keep the brake pushrod from rattling. It's not like it can fall out once everything is installed. It's nice to have though, because it will hold the pushrod in place during installation. But "need" because something bad will happen if you don't have it? No. ...and the vacuum hose idea works well. That's what I do.
 

I was the worst POS in the world for suggesting making your own bush.
I was basically trying to kill Princess Valiant :lol:
 
The brake light switch should still hold the pushrod in place if the keeper is missing. No switch and no keeper and the pushrod can easily come out. Had it happen to me on a race car I bought as a roller 35 years ago.
 
I drove around for decades with no bushing on brake rod. The flimsy brake switch kept peddle from going too far back. I have a piece of vacuum hose on brake rod now and that rod is wedged in there super tight. Then later I ordered some official brake rod bushings to keep on hand for future.
 
Use the one from Dr. Diff with the notch in it for installation. Without the notch the material used for installation is to soft. remember it is a "lock ring" not made for reuse. Do not use a petroleum lube to install a new lock ring. . Use Dawn dish washing liquid.

Yes a cut hose will seem like it works. But it is not as strong and I have seen them fail. The correct part is only $3.00 from Dr.Diff.
 
Thanks for all the replies. It does't seem to b e a critical issue so far as operation of brakes are concerned, I will order a keeper and replace it the next time I have the MC off the car. Which might be never.
 
Dodgeboy68 said:
Thanks for all the replies. It does't seem to b e a critical issue so far as operation of brakes are concerned, I will order a keeper and replace it the next time I have the MC off the car. Which might be never.
Click to expand...

Hahaha. So funny
This is where I learned about the vacuum tube.
We used to install.change/install headers in all types of vehicles.
I met my mentor at the strip where he and his pals were testing headers in his 64- 426 wedge Dodge, they were testing 3 sets.
On that car he taught me it was easier to install the fenderwell by moving the Master cyl outta the way, by pulling the pedal up outta the m/c., then 4 firewall nuts and move the m/c outta the way.
We damaged the rubber on the pushrod on several misc cars, and I had been taught to use the vac tube, didn't know there was a "special" rubber, figured it was like a cotter pin, if it worked, used it.

WELL I CAN TELL YOU - trying to pull that vacuum tube pushrod outta the Master cyl is every much as hard as any fkn factory special rubber.

Again. This is tested many times. Some cars with a roll bar can be bitchin to pull the pedal hard enuff, and the pushrod with factory rubber vs vac tube rubber is just as capable of pulling the guts outta the Masters !

Ooooh-oooh - it's not special factory.
Order it - wait a week cost $10 with shipping or walk over to the rack of vac tube, nip a bit off, grind a notch in the side. Chamfer ends
 
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