Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
You can gap them in a wide range but Hypers esp KB can bite you
You can gap them tops within a wide range...that's why you dont need to spend on stuff like that. Put the ring in the bore, take the piston and set the ring square 'lining the pistons 2nd ring on hyper, oil ring on std pistons into the bore n up with the deck ..Done' . You can gap them all over, to an extent.. and not effect the power.
Fwiw
Yep.Just curious......do you have any ambition for any big block projects? I would be interested to see something you built.
Yep.
got a std 400 block that has 20k on it.. honable. And a set of 915 and 906 heads.
As soon as I get a set of rods and pistons.Cool. Wasn't tryin to sidetrack you I was just curious. You gonna do a build thread?
As soon as I get a set of rods and pistons.
1st the 340, then the 410.. then other stuff, 400, AL 225 etc..
Another 100 bucks in odd and ends and the 340 will be done, about a grand to get the 410 back in action and an easy 1400 for the 400.
All of his "experiments" seem to fly apart.AL 225. You suck for that. lol
Did you see where Dutra tried to "install" a deck on his? Pretty sure he ruined it. It failed badly. It's over on .org somewhere.
All of his "experiments" seem to fly apart.
Met him once, nice guy. A tinkerer
Yeah, I wasn't talkin bad of him. I agree. He's a good dude. Shares all his info. How you gonna learn if you don't step outside the box? I too had thought about giving an aluminum slant some support at the top of the cylinders. I had thought of first having the block sampled so I could find out "what" kind of aluminum it is, then getting some bar stock the same type and making some supports to go between the cylinders and the block on top. Maybe two on either side of the cylinders and one between each one. Welded in of course and then come back and resurface the "deck". I don't why in the world Chrysler chose to cast them in that way. The extra aluminum for an entire deck would not have added that much weight.
Experimenting and mostly it was late 50's tech. Die cast aluminum.
The liners are cast in place, steel upper and lower cap/saddles. Thread pockets are super deep, less thread means less clamping..or I'd mill the block.
There is no way to weld a deck in place, to sleeve it. It's a one off deal. The head gaskets don't last... I have an NOS Fel-Pro set for this Engine with that funky copper layered gasket and everything but it's almost a waste because I know it'll just pop sooner than later...so the block rock comes to mind with some small channels around the cylinders, gotta plan that out more.
yep
"permanent mold" solid die has to have open deck
think of the others done that way- maybe VEGA? (I forget)
AMC 195.6 (Nash statesman then Rambler) aluminum version was solid deck
I replaced my flathead (with two Nash statesman carbs) with one
ran forever
The hard blocking though could work. I hadn't thought of that option. Maybe half or 2/3 full with a really good cooling system. Most of the heat is in the top half of the cylinders so if he could get that controlled, there you go.
@MOPAROFFICIAL you still suck cause you got one and I don't.
I gotta throw in that three year old thing. LMAO
Lol
I need to fill the top because that's where the cylinders seal the head gasket and it's just too thin to hold up with the erosion of the die cast aluminum around the top of the liners. They are known to separate as 2 dissimilar metals erode... it's a tricky deal. It cant just sit in the corner for ever.. really wish I'd stop getting alerts about a certain retired jackwad running his sucklet in another thread about steel balls and broken motors... all I can think is.. get a life karl or whtvr they call him
There is only 1/4 or so thick of each cyl top. Open deck the rest of the way.You don't think a half or 2/3 fill would add support? I bet it would. How bad is it corroded at the top?
There is only between 1/4 and 5/16 thick of each cyl top. Open deck the rest of the way.
Filling would be easy, only filling the top 3" would be something else. One guy was rambling about welding up the deck...but then the engine would be a twizzler.. if it was possible..die cast..
I know he sleeved it with flanged top sleeves machining for interference fit iirr.That's what Dutra did. It didn't work.
I know he sleeved it with flagged tops matching together interlocking kinda....it flew apart, he used spindly rods and a cast crank....ugh... dumb move!
Well a LONG cast crank with only 4 mains turning over 5k with skinny 7 inch rods...AL block, die cast..Yeah, he's used a cast crank on lots of slants I think. With everything being right though, I don't think that would solely contribute to failure.
I have a BHJ for big blocks.Yup yup yup, always did it that way.
The tool was cheap and I like it.
If they're too tight.You can gap them in a wide range but Hypers esp KB can bite you
You go boy. Git r done! Whatever it is. LOL
Oh lol ,I'll clarify...the 340.