AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 25,077
- Reaction score
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What factory 318 to 440 engine did the 1000 come on?
Thermoquad running rich
- Thread starter dartfreak75
- Start date
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None of the Competition series came on anything. I wasn't aware we were discussing production only. Where's it say "THAT"? Without the Competition Series, there likely would have been none ofthe rest. Are you trying to move the goalposts?
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 25,077
- Reaction score
- 12,420
I wasn't aware you set the rules for discussions. Have at it buddy. It's all yours.
OK,
The OPs problem. Unless the t/blades are open waaaay too far, met rod position has NO affect on how rich...........or........lean the idle is.
Because it is so smelly rich, I will list the possibilities in the most likely order to cause the problem.
- choke staying closed.
- the two O rings that should sit in the black body have been omitted or are leaking. If lost, a 3/8" OD, 1/16" thick standard O ring can be used [ fuel resistant of course ].
- leaking needle & seats, washer between brass seat & airhorn omitted.
- there are two cups under the primary jets on the black body that are epoxied to the body. Some times these crack or leak. If in doubt, re-seal them with fuel resistant epoxy such as JB weld.
- float level set too high. Should be 1 1/16" for brass, about 29/32" for fibrefill.
- main jets loose.
- float arms bent causing float to bind on walls & flood.
- excessive float drop, float sticks at bottom of bowl & causes flooding on that side.
The OPs problem. Unless the t/blades are open waaaay too far, met rod position has NO affect on how rich...........or........lean the idle is.
Because it is so smelly rich, I will list the possibilities in the most likely order to cause the problem.
- choke staying closed.
- the two O rings that should sit in the black body have been omitted or are leaking. If lost, a 3/8" OD, 1/16" thick standard O ring can be used [ fuel resistant of course ].
- leaking needle & seats, washer between brass seat & airhorn omitted.
- there are two cups under the primary jets on the black body that are epoxied to the body. Some times these crack or leak. If in doubt, re-seal them with fuel resistant epoxy such as JB weld.
- float level set too high. Should be 1 1/16" for brass, about 29/32" for fibrefill.
- main jets loose.
- float arms bent causing float to bind on walls & flood.
- excessive float drop, float sticks at bottom of bowl & causes flooding on that side.
Get it warm and let it heat soak a while, check the timing at idle. Pull a plug, lay it somewhere that will be grounded and crank the engine. Note the spark color and intensity. Also I have read a couple posts that you mentioned have adjusted the carburetor. Check that your idle mixture screws are not out of wack. Run them both in till lightly seated, counting the turns. To reestablish a baseline, back them out 2 1/2 turns and start it up. (Is your spark plug reinstalled?) Now, check and see if it is rich or lean. Pull the hose from the PCV port on the carb. A rich condition , the car will continue to idle. A lean condition, the car will die immediately. A good setting is where the rpm’s will climb a couple hundred for 2-3 seconds, then the engine will begin to die and will totally quit. Report back.
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