Thermostat recommendation.

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Dan B. said:
Idle... Based on the replies (thanks to all) I would like to try the 180' thermostat, but again, what kind/model etc. ?
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Normally if it gets hot when your cruzn it because your cooling system is undersized, hence like the radiator is to small. You have all the air you need at cruzn speed.
Getting hot at idle is a different story, could be two fold, 1st and foremost - not enough air.
Second, low coolant flow at idle rpm
Both very common problems
Go a head and try your 180 thermostat, i doubt it will cure it, but you never know until you try.
I run a Milodon High flow stat 160 in my 340 with factory A/C, even on the hottest days it rarely gets above 180-185 at idle, never gets above 160 at cruz speed.
 
512Stroker said:
Normally if it gets hot when your cruzn it because your cooling system is undersized, hence like the radiator is to small. You have all the air you need at cruzn speed.
Getting hot at idle is a different story, could be two fold, 1st and foremost - not enough air.
Second, low coolant flow at idle rpm
Both very common problems
Go a head and try your 180 thermostat, i doubt it will cure it, but you never know until you try.
I run a Milodon High flow stat 160 in my 340 with factory A/C, even on the hottest days it rarely gets above 180-185 at idle, never gets above 160 at cruz speed.
Click to expand...

Why do you want the engine at 160 at cruising speed?
 
mopowers said:
Why do you want the engine at 160 at cruising speed?
Click to expand...
I tried a 180 stat at first and when a use the A/C the engine temp would go up to 190 and above and then would struggle to get back to 180.
After I put the 160 stat in I rarely see anything above 185 with A/C on and as soon as I hit the highway it drops quickly back to 160 at cruzn speed.
Tough to explain, it's like the cooling system was unable to shed the heat load that had built up when I using the 180 degree stat.
I know that 160 engine temp is not the desired temp for combustion efficiency, but I have been running the 160 stat for 2 years/3500 miles and it works well, plugs look perfect and no pinging.
 
Didn't have overheating problems with my car before, but I rebuilt the engine this year and the temp seems to go to 170 180 to 200 .. And rising while I'm in the city or stagnate in traffic but once I get moving it will go back down but after driving 20 mins once I get back to city driving it goes up and fast to 200 and I start to panic.
I never had this before.
Now let me explain a cpl of things.

Like I said this year it a new rebuild, when the car is cold the oil pressure will go to 80 no problem (even higher just under, 90) once it starts to warm up it will stay around 40 lbs and idle at about 25 to 35.

Then, I never had a thermostat in the car and never had problems with the car going over 180 but now like I said it goes up and fast.
I have a nice rad (forget the name might be those Be Cool or looks like it) never gave me problems.

I'm thinking maybe I just need a thermostat?

What type, degree should I use?

I have a 340 6 bbl (550 lift solid cam, 4 speed car, 4.10 rear gears)
It's a weekend driver and a daily driver if the weather is good, I put on this car this yr in just 2 months close to 2000 miles, I drive it everywhere to the track, to work, to the market.
I never had this until recently.
Any help I'll be truly grateful.

MAPS
 
MAPS said:
Didn't have overheating problems with my car before, but I rebuilt the engine this year and the temp seems to go to 170 180 to 200 .. And rising while I'm in the city or stagnate in traffic but once I get moving it will go back down but after driving 20 mins once I get back to city driving it goes up and fast to 200 and I start to panic.
I never had this before.
Now let me explain a cpl of things.

Like I said this year it a new rebuild, when the car is cold the oil pressure will go to 80 no problem (even higher just under, 90) once it starts to warm up it will stay around 40 lbs and idle at about 25 to 35.

Then, I never had a thermostat in the car and never had problems with the car going over 180 but now like I said it goes up and fast.
I have a nice rad (forget the name might be those Be Cool or looks like it) never gave me problems.

I'm thinking maybe I just need a thermostat?

What type, degree should I use?

I have a 340 6 bbl (550 lift solid cam, 4 speed car, 4.10 rear gears)
It's a weekend driver and a daily driver if the weather is good, I put on this car this yr in just 2 months close to 2000 miles, I drive it everywhere to the track, to work, to the market.
I never had this until recently.
Any help I'll be truly grateful.

MAPS
Click to expand...
Where you are located I would apply a 180 degree high flow thermostat.
From what you describe its more like you have an air issue - not enough fan.
Getting hot when you slow down is very typical of poor fan performance.
There will be members on here that will try to move you toward an electric fan. Dont listen to them you just waste time and money.
Good luck
 
MAPS said:
Didn't have overheating problems with my car before, but I rebuilt the engine this year and the temp seems to go to 170 180 to 200 .. And rising while I'm in the city or stagnate in traffic but once I get moving it will go back down but after driving 20 mins once I get back to city driving it goes up and fast to 200 and I start to panic.
I never had this before.
Now let me explain a cpl of things.

Like I said this year it a new rebuild, when the car is cold the oil pressure will go to 80 no problem (even higher just under, 90) once it starts to warm up it will stay around 40 lbs and idle at about 25 to 35.

Then, I never had a thermostat in the car and never had problems with the car going over 180 but now like I said it goes up and fast.
I have a nice rad (forget the name might be those Be Cool or looks like it) never gave me problems.

I'm thinking maybe I just need a thermostat?

What type, degree should I use?

I have a 340 6 bbl (550 lift solid cam, 4 speed car, 4.10 rear gears)
It's a weekend driver and a daily driver if the weather is good, I put on this car this yr in just 2 months close to 2000 miles, I drive it everywhere to the track, to work, to the market.
I never had this until recently.
Any help I'll be truly grateful.

MAPS
Click to expand...

Did u bore the cyl. ? Thinner walls create more heat . 200 aint bad at all . 220 and beyond , I dont like .
 
Thanks guys,
Like I said I never had problems with overheating etc. I still haven't overheated per se. In just worried when I see the 200 and climbing.

The engine is 30 over, it's a whole different block now because I didn't want to mess with the original block of the car so I placed it aside and just used a new engine.
 
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So can someone tell me what thermostat I should get, 160 or 180.
I was leaning towers 180 but I'm not sure as I'm not savvy to these things.
One more thing, I looked to buy one from Jegs (Summit as well) and see that Milodon makes a nice stat that also is way more expensive than the others, (30 dollars or so) but it's reviews seem to be almost 5 stars (out of 5) so I'm leaning n that way @ 180 degrees, any thoughts from the "Go to Guys" ?
Thanks.
MAPS
 
MAPS said:
So can someone tell me what thermostat I should get, 160 or 180.
I was leaning towers 180 but I'm not sure as I'm not savvy to these things.
One more thing, I looked to buy one from Jegs (Summit as well) and see that Milodon makes a nice stat that also is way more expensive than the others, (30 dollars or so) but it's reviews seem to be almost 5 stars (out of 5) so I'm leaning n that way @ 180 degrees, any thoughts from the "Go to Guys" ?
Thanks.
MAPS
Click to expand...
Read post #31
Milodon is good stuff, but I did have one fail open years ago on my 512 stroker motor
 
@kursplat
usually for me, as I don't their water pump.... What they say.

@512Stroker
I read it earlier, but I'm thinking I still need to get a Damn thermostat, no ?
I have a real nice rad, and the fan has always worked,
I'm thinking maybe carrier the engine is also freshly rebuilt 1000 miles or so, it's still tight?

Just don't know which'stat in should get to start off..
 
Good article.
My rule of thumb for cooling systems -

1 Your block and heads water passages are dirtier than you think.
2 Your radiator is dirtier than you think, and possibly fouled with rust/well water instead of distilled water.
 
@kursplat
usually for me, as I don't their water pump.... What they say.

Typo;
" Useless for me, as I don't have their water pump... What they say.

Meaning, I went to the link you placed and after reading their info about their thermostat requirements. I realised that they are useless for me.
Reason being ;(as stated by them)
These thermostats need to be used only with their water pumps.

I hope you understand what I meant now...
Thanks no less for the help.

MAPS
 
Demonic said:
Good article.
My rule of thumb for cooling systems -

1 Your block and heads water passages are dirtier than you think.
2 Your radiator is dirtier than you think, and possibly fouled with rust/well water instead of distilled water.
Click to expand...

Not sure if you read thru all the posts, especially my posts near the end,
My engine heads, intake are freshly rebuilt 1 month ago the break in oil was removed and I have changed oil already after already putting on 1K miles.
It doesn't have water but anti freeze along with wetter.
The rad (Be Cool type) is clean, been flushed, and not 2 full summer's use...
I'm hoping it's because I never placed a thermostat in the engine and it's a new (tight) still...
Only time will tell with the new 'stat installed.
Thanks.
MAPS
 
Do u have Evans waterless coolant?. If not a 50/50 mix works. Premixed? But u can’t Straight antifreeze. I run a 195 T stat. Kim
 
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