Thinking About Switching to Right Hand Lugs

-

dibbons

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2009
Messages
5,728
Reaction score
3,795
Location
La Paz, B.C.S., Mexico
Only the left front on the '65 Valiant Signet convertible has the left-hand threads, the other three are right-hand. I painted little "L"s on the end of the studs to warn anyone removing the tire, but no guarantee they would even notice. Now that I have things apart during brake renewal, I might as well change out the left-hand threaded studs. Anything I need to know about the conversion? What part numbers are out there? Should I have a shop do it for me? Thank you.

IMG_0684.jpg
 
I believe that it is imperative that a machine shop makes the swap. They need to be installed and swaged. Don't try this at home. Pay a shop.
 
All the non-mopar youtube videos show the guy just knocking them out with a hammer. Not sure how old Mopars are installed. Here's an interesting video based on post #2 above suggestion:

 
I just hammered mine out like that and it ruined my hubs. The end of the stud is a swedge where it holds the drum on. I found you must cut off the swedge off or it will ruin the hub.
 
I'm not sure. After wrecking the hubs I went to disc brakes as I needed new hubs now. A machine shop was willing to weld in the original stud holes and cut new holes that would take the studs and install the drums but after the cost I thought it best to go to swap to Disc brakes.
You might be able to do a search on here to find that out .
 
I don't know if the front drums are original factory or not, and I don't know if the factory would have used swedged lugs or knurled lugs on my particular vehicle when it was first manufactured.

I tried to test fit the five left-threaded lug nuts on the five studs and this is what I found: Three of the studs screwed on OK by hand, but with some rough spots. One I was able to finish threading on and off employing at the very end the aid of a 3/4" combination wrench. The last one, with the aid of a wrench was so tight that it starting free-wheeling in the drum spindle and now I can't remove that lug because I can't keep it from spinning.

But I did notice that the fourth stud that I used the wrench to take the lug nut on and off is now loose, meaning I can rock it side to side (but it does not spin like the fifth stud). With the lingering doubt as to whether these studs are swedged or knurled, I took a chance with a small punch and small sledge hammer and tapped on the fourth stud (the one that I could rock back and forth a little). It began to move down and out so I kept hitting it with medium sharp blows until it was free. Come to find out, it is knurled.

Now if I purchase the knurled lugs shown in post #7, I wonder if the new ones will be tight enough in all of the holes? I guess they could be spotted with a tack-weld or two without warping things out of round if necessary?

I imagine this studs and lugs have been through hell in their past life, probably been abused by a "tech" trying to remove 'em spinning the wrong direction. Best I take 'em out and replace 'em like I was thinking (and finally have them all right-hand thread to boot). Photos show the removed (knurled) stud and the one that free spins with the lug nut still attached.

Will never know if these are: a) replacement drums with knurled studs or b) if these are factory drums with knurled studs or c) if these are factory drums with swedged studs that were replaced by a previous owner with five knurled studs.

IMG_0688.jpg


IMG_0687.jpg
 
there is no reason to re-swage the studs on new drums. They were swaged in the first place for ease of assembly at the factory - none of your back drums are swaged and no problem there, right?
 
sorry - as per your post #5 - when you put the new studs in there is no reason to re-swage them to hold the drum in place for the reasons above.
 
-
Back
Top