Thinking about turbo'ing my 318

-

vwmoparguy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2011
Messages
193
Reaction score
29
Location
Riverside, Ca
I recently purchased a 65 Dart GT. It has a properly rebuilt 318 with all correct machine work done. It has rebuilt rods, new cast pistons, new valves and springs and has been balanced. It has some sort of unknown "RV" cam, stock exhaust manifolds, an Edelbrock Performer intake and a Holley 600cfm carb. The guy I bought the car from assembled the engine and said it's right at 10 to 1 c/r. It seems to run flawlessly but doesn't have alot of power.

I would like to go with a single turbo but don't want to pull the engine.

Questions are;
Is the compression ratio too high?
Are stock rods ok?
Will the ring gaps (assuming they are set up for a carbed low rpm engine) be ok?

Thanks guys!
 
10:1 cast pistons+turbo=boom.....unless you keep the boost low....
 
Sorry, I forgot to mention that I'm NOT looking for high boost levels or extreme power. Maybe 8 to 10 psi???? I think 375 to 400hp will be perfect for me. if I cant do that with this engine, I have a 408 I'm building but won't be done for quite a while.
 
You may be able to control cylinder pressure to accomodate the high compression and the small 318 rods could handle 400hp but there is still a big road block. If it is stock engine clearances the additional heat from the turbo will tighten up the pistons and rings making a problem. The rod and crank clearances will be too tight when the power level rises. No amount of tuning can overcome the stock clearance issue.
 
The RV cam
just gives a little low end torque. Not much more than a stock cam. 8.5:1 compression is ideal but race cars are running 9.5 to 10. Your rings are defninitly too tight and more than likely butt seizing the pistons in the cylinders, worst case. Stock bottom ends are making some serious horsepower.

1st gen A's have a small engine bay so room is the real issue. There is an Aussie member that is building a smallblock 1st gen here somewhere. He might be able to elaborate on the clearance issues.

Think hard and long about this endeavor!! Your car won't be the same as it sits now. Everything will change.
 
Thanks for the info guys.

I really didn't want to touch this engine because it runs so well. But if I could have done a small turbo system I would have.

I'll have to see which direction the 408 goes.
 
I never thought much of "RV" cams. You don't HAVE an RV. You have a light car. I'd get more cam in 'er before spending a huge amount on a turbo

Friend of mine bought a new 74 Dodge 4x4 shortie to pull his Jeep. It didn't run that bad, and he decided to put an "RV" cam in it. Don't remember what cam, but IF ANYTHING it LOST on all counts
 
You may be able to control cylinder pressure to accomodate the high compression and the small 318 rods could handle 400hp but there is still a big road block. If it is stock engine clearances the additional heat from the turbo will tighten up the pistons and rings making a problem. The rod and crank clearances will be too tight when the power level rises. No amount of tuning can overcome the stock clearance issue.

X2

You must tear down the engine and install new, gapped rings.

Wow way good of me digging up an old thread! Been a long night. :coffee2:
 
How did he build 10:1 cr with cast pistons ??
 
Put an Xe268h or lunati cam in it. That should wake it up. That's pretty much what I had in my Duster before I did the stroker. It had 302 heads, edl performer, edl 650 carb, and mopar electronic ignition. Was no slouch, still have it sitting in my garage.
 
shave the deck... compression goes up no matter what pistons you have.
 
Ug............g............gu............guys.............you are talking to a dead thread.............

c0ecdc8389648edf10a1a7c125af28b89acd523a7d55439d41d669435036ff9c.jpg
 
-
Back
Top