This is the future of cars I've warned everyone about

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I have a 24 equinox as a company vehicle and a 26 genesis g70 on a lease. The equinox is a base which has a screen for the radio and manual hvac controls which is awesome. I can live with the radio being the only screen, it's pretty nice. The problem is all the electronic safety bs. It's incredibly distracting if you're actually driving and paying attention. Before I turned it off the equinox slammed on the brakes during rush hour because a bike pulled out in front of me 1/8 a mile ahead. The only thing on it at this point are the blind spot monitors and the parking sensors. Not because I need them, but they're a nice secondary warning. Parking sensors are awesome, and I use the proxy to know where I'm at. The G70 has lane monitoring and active assistance, the same brake thing as the equinox, too many dings etc. Oh and the damn Hvac is this annoying combination of touch screen and buttons. I've turned off the same stuff as the equinox. It's just incredibly annoying to have to deal with. It's a nice car, and remote climate start with the app is cool, but I'm definitely going back to my Holden sedans after this. LS powered, bigass, nice interiored, sedan (caprice or SS I'm not sure which) with most of the nice stuff of the g70 but without all the screen bullshit.
My mother bought a 2025 Equinox, I've never driven it, so I don't know what it is like, probably full of electronic bullshit.
Between my truck and the company's electronic nannies that I have to deal with daily, it's almost enough to make me insane. The truck displays a message every 3 to 5 minutes to 'watch for ice' anytime the temperature gets within a few degrees of freezing. It's also equipped with a dashcam and stability monitor that spits out verbal warnings for a variety of reasons. Talk about a distraction.
 
I have a good story regarding my 2008 Jeep Wrangler I bought new. It had a persistent oil leak. Dripping from right around the oil filter. The filter screwed into the timing cover. I kept seeing oil seeping out of the cover when I'd clean it and restart the engine. I put a magnifying glass on it and SAW where the aluminum cover was porous and right where the leak was coming from. I also looked it up n the internet and what do you know? Porous timing covers were a problem. There was at least one run from Mexico that had porosity issues and mine was one.

Armed with that information printed out, I went to the dealer. I SHOWED the service writer and tech BOTH where the leak was and showed them both the information I had printed out. They STILL replaced the OIL PAN. They insisted that the oil pan was where the FACTORY REP said it was coming from.

Of course I got the Jeep back still leaking. I took it back. Again. Again I insisted the leak was in the timing cover and I had shown them. To cut this short. THREE REPLACEMENT OIL PANS LATER and they finally relented and put a timing cover on it. That fixed the issue. Talk about totally wasting a customer's time. They don't have mechanics anymore. Just parts replacers and not very good ones.

Oh and at 18K miles, the engine started knocking. They put a new engine in it and it was never the same after that. New cars SUCK.
My Buddy's Wife bought a new one, rear gears were making noise, after (2) 'kick-the-can-down-the-road' BS trips to the dealer he went over their heads to get it handled. They sent a 'drivetrain specialist' to rebuild the Dana 35 in the back of the damn thing, He telling My Bud "it'll be like a Swiss Watch", so He proceeded. After getting it back, it ran great, until they made a few tight turns.........then it started squawkin' & jumpin',...being a fellow gearhead figured it just needed to break in a little,.....nope, the specialist forgot to add the friction modifier & the thing got scored .....He made them LemonLaw the MF'er & moved on.....never again, bought an older 4.0L Cherokee w/an 8.25" in it..
 
I think about this on a daily basis. Just burn the transmitter out on a good day when everything's running well and put the nannies on 'ignore'.
There are ~8 transmitters on anything keyless minimum,...if You're gonna burn one You'd better;
1) Know exactly which one and;
2) Know exactly what else will stop functioning if You do..
 
My Buddy's Wife bought a new one, rear gears were making noise, after (2) 'kick-the-can-down-the-road' BS trips to the dealer he went over their heads to get it handled. They sent a 'drivetrain specialist' to rebuild the Dana 35 in the back of the damn thing, He telling My Bud "it'll be like a Swiss Watch", so He proceeded. After getting it back, it ran great, until they made a few tight turns.........then it started squawkin' & jumpin',...being a fellow gearhead figured it just needed to break in a little,.....nope, the specialist forgot to add the friction modifier & the thing got scored .....He made them LemonLaw the MF'er & moved on.....never again, bought an older 4.0L Cherokee w/an 8.25" in it..
Yeah, we're leanin REAL HEAVY toward an old truck. I'd LOVE to find a 70s slant 6 truck, because I have lots of slant 6 stuff, but I'm open to the older Fords too, of course.
 
Yeah, we're leanin REAL HEAVY toward an old truck. I'd LOVE to find a 70s slant 6 truck, because I have lots of slant 6 stuff, but I'm open to the older Fords too, of course.
I just bought the 1st vehicle in a long while last summer, '92 Chevy Sportvan 5.0L w/a chair lift, only like 53K on it.....looks like **** but runs great so..
 

Pretty sure unless it's a fully dressed Hemi, should be no problem, I bought it so I can take My Lady Friend out with Her mobility chair.......but ummmm hobby pick-ups were certainly a strong secondary factor, lol!
Well maybe she won't mind the occasional motor load. lol Nice of you to be accommodating.
 
Picked up a '24 RAV4. Haven't driven it much, but will be shutting off as much of the electronic **** that I can. I wish that the radio/infotainment crap was an option like on my Demon...LOL, a little black cover where the radio is supposed to be.

You folks that don't have to deal with rust have it made. Eventually, our cars have to be replaced because of corrosion even though we get them rustproofed. This RAV is replacing a 1999 Camry.....Still a great car, that I may end up keeping. Unfortunately, maintaining a fleet with maintenance costs and insurance is putting me in the poor house...LOL.
 
Picked up a '24 RAV4. Haven't driven it much, but will be shutting off as much of the electronic **** that I can. I wish that the radio/infotainment crap was an option like on my Demon...LOL, a little black cover where the radio is supposed to be.

You folks that don't have to deal with rust have it made. Eventually, our cars have to be replaced because of corrosion even though we get them rustproofed. This RAV is replacing a 1999 Camry.....Still a great car, that I may end up keeping. Unfortunately, maintaining a fleet with maintenance costs and insurance is putting me in the poor house...LOL.
Yeah it's funny how insurance never goes down.
 
Now I'm wondering what would happen if I just went through and pulled all the fuses except the essentials.
Radio? Yank
AC? Yank
Infotainment? Solder a bad fuse in place so it can't be restored on accident
Etc. Etc.
 
Yeah it's funny how insurance never goes down.
If I charge more to rent my house to old people because they're more likely to stop paying and require the eviction process, it is age discrimination, but when an insurance company does it, it's ok because "actuarial tables".

Oddly enough, there aren't any actuarial tables based on insurance losses by race, or by losses due to accidents with uninsured illegal immigrants, or by losses from accidents by vehicle purchased at 'buy-here pay-here' joints, or by losses due to drivers with unnatural hair colors and tackle box facial piercings....
 
Yeah it's funny how insurance never goes down.
And the best part...

When you have an accident, the claim is recorded on Carfax and it instantly devalues your vehicle when you go to trade it in.

But, the insurance companies still determine your rates based upon the original value of the vehicle before the damage.

Also, they can use salvage parts to do the repairs unless you specify new parts and that's a battle.

Another thing.. they they to tell you where to have your car repaired because they have " preferred rates" ( read kickbacks) to certian Bodyshops.

I personally will never buy a new car again and, as I stated previously, I'm in the business.
 
When you have an accident, the claim is recorded on Carfax and it instantly devalues your vehicle when you go to trade it in.
Just my opinion....I consider this good. This way, no sleazy shop is fixing it and dumping it on an unsuspecting buyer. If it is my car being de-valued...oh well, **** happens. I would rather it this way than to to buy a newer used car only to find out later when the repairs start showing through.
 
When my first Dakota (1993) was involved in a chain reaction accident, my insurance (who I've generally been pleased with), would not allow me to supply Shelby rear bumper step treads which I got from a friend free of charge to use. They insisted it was a "safety issue" and forced me to use standard step pads, which they supplied.

What kind of BS is that?
 
As your car decreases in value your insurance won't go down unless you call and say I've been shopping around and I would prefer to stay with you but I can get a better rate elsewhere. What can you do? Its a shame but thats business.
 
Just my opinion....I consider this good. This way, no sleazy shop is fixing it and dumping it on an unsuspecting buyer. If it is my car being de-valued...oh well, **** happens. I would rather it this way than to to buy a newer used car only to find out later when the repairs start showing through.
Agreed!

The only thing about these shops that offer lower rates to the insurance companies is that they only use apprentices to do the work (lower labor cost to the shop) so you are not getting the top quality work as you would expect.

I'm betting that there are numerous members on here that have experienced paint/body issues even though they bought a newer used car from a reputable source/dealership.
 
As your car decreases in value your insurance won't go down unless you call and say I've been shopping around and I would prefer to stay with you but I can get a better rate elsewhere. What can you do? Its a shame but thats business.

Usually, the answer is that because your car is older, there is a higher risk of component/parts failure that could result in an accident.

Also, be sure to read the fine print when you are looking at changing Insurance Companies.

You may get cheaper but way less coverage unless you pay particular attention to the fine print.

These Corporations are the biggest deceivers on Earth and are not interested in you, just the bottom line.
 
Picked up a '24 RAV4. Haven't driven it much, but will be shutting off as much of the electronic **** that I can. I wish that the radio/infotainment crap was an option like on my Demon...LOL, a little black cover where the radio is supposed to be.

You folks that don't have to deal with rust have it made. Eventually, our cars have to be replaced because of corrosion even though we get them rustproofed. This RAV is replacing a 1999 Camry.....Still a great car, that I may end up keeping. Unfortunately, maintaining a fleet with maintenance costs and insurance is putting me in the poor house...LOL.
The only reason I replaced our 2002 Taurus wagon was because of rust. That thing was nearly bulletproof, even at 240 kms or 150k miles, still ran great, didn't use oil between changes, and everything worked except the power lock on the tailgate, that never did work in the 7 years we owned it. Insurance was cheap, parts are cheap and plentiful, and there's tons of room with the rear seats folded down.
I spent months looking for another one, but they were either starting to rust, or overpriced.
 
As your car decreases in value your insurance won't go down unless you call and say I've been shopping around and I would prefer to stay with you but I can get a better rate elsewhere. What can you do? Its a shame but thats business.
That works until it doesn't. I traded in a 17 cruze and a 14 RDX for the g70. According to the Geico app, my insurance should have stayed the same. As soon as I updated the policy, I instantly had to pay an additional $1600 per year because I didn't have a multi car discount anymore. I'm sorry but going from two cars to one being insured is not suddenly worth an additional $130 per month. I called in twice once to see if I could have it adjusted down and the second to cancel it. Canceling the policy brought it down to $70 more per month but still not even remotely worth it. Now I pay $10 less than 2 cars for one brand new one while having a little better insurance on the house. That is an acceptable trade off to me.
 
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