This old man has gone clear nuts

[67Dart273]

Ridiculous. Made a huge mistake, bought a junk 5.2, NV3500 and transfer case. Engine turned out to be REALLY bad shape. I actually got the guy to give me some coin back He said it needed a clutch, LMAO. Really? Fiberglass clutch, I guess, smelled like hell I can't get within 3 ft of the thing. The engine is so bad it had a "J.C. Whitney" "non fouler" in one plug hole

Barrels.......bought 3 barrels I'm going to experiment with storing engines. Going to try and come up with a pretty airtight gasket, some dessiccant, maybe even weld some fittings in there to keep minor amount of pressure in them "a few inches" water column With the heads and pan off the long block just fits with room around it for other small parts. The intake may fit on top I have not tried yet

Building a trolley hoist for in the shed. 20 ft sticks of 1/4X 1 1/2 angle and 1/8 x 4 strap. Welded 1/2" connector nuts on to match the stringers in the shed. I'll use 1/2 threaded rod up through the stringers. The trolley fits a jib hoist I bought a few years ago, was going to attach to the two post hoist and never have, "as yet"

 

[dukeboy440]

Need to fill that barrel with used motor oil

 

[67Dart273]

That's "somewhat" of an idea, but used oil can be corrosive.........which is partly the reason you change it

 

[dukeboy440]

That's "somewhat" of an idea, but used oil can be corrosive.........which is partly the reason you change it

Good point

 

[spl440]

How would filling it with diesel fuel work? Has oil in it and would act as a mild cleaner also?

 

[Dartswinger70]

Cosmoline? No really having a stockpile of old MOPaR engines for posterity is a Noble Idea, as long as people in the future can appreciate them.

 

[67Dart273]

I don't have a huge heated shop, for that matter any heated shop. I need SOMETHING to keep some of this out of the "rust belt."

Anybody have ideas on gaskets for the drums? I'm thinking of buying some of that thin wall plastic tube and slitting it, then laying it around the top lip.

 

[Dartswinger70]

I don't have a huge heated shop, for that matter any heated shop. I need SOMETHING to keep some of this out of the "rust belt."

Anybody have ideas on gaskets for the drums? I'm thinking of buying some of that thin wall plastic tube and slitting it, then laying it around the top lip.

Your seal idea with the tube sounds good, how about rubber hose instead of plastic? Also, there may be condensation with changing temps. Maybe you can vacuum seal the parts in plastic before putting them in the drums?

 

[Unconventional]

Today's diesel ain't like the old diesel. It's much lighter oil wise, and rather combustable. Cosmoline is just nasty stuff. Effective, but nasty. Kinda like taking the 4x4 to Pismo Beach, you just never get all the sand out. Cosmoline is about like that.

 

[TrailBeast]

Maybe a bicycle inner tube for the seals?
Split it down the center and make two per tube?

 

[Unconventional]

Greg could be on to something there. Those foamy seals in those barrel lids are fragile to say the least. Work great for shipping toxic waste to the toxic dump. It would be a booger to open up, but there is always silicone seal.

 

[Revhendo]

Man, somebody needs a hobby.
Oh, wait......


I was thinking silicone, also, but the bicycle tube sounds good.

 

[67Dart273]

Your seal idea with the tube sounds good, how about rubber hose instead of plastic? Also, there may be condensation with changing temps. Maybe you can vacuum seal the parts in plastic before putting them in the drums?

Once a container is actually sealed, there is no condensation beyond what is in the air in the container. Neither does temp become a factor other than expansion/ contraction of the drum, which CAN be a problem. Desiccant will take care of what little moisture is in the drum to start with

 

[67Dart273]

Maybe a bicycle inner tube for the seals?
Split it down the center and make two per tube?

That too crossed my mind. Silicone does not appeal. I won't be getting into it/ them very often, but I don't want to screw up the lid when doing so. "Breaking into" a silicone seal doesn't sound fun

 

[Unconventional]

Can you say Air Chisel? Probably about what it would take. Not the hot setup for prospective buyers to inspect the contents. How adhesive is the "spray on" foam stuff? That no good either. All squish out when you tighten the band. Inner tube lookin real good. A little silicone seal or 3M to hold it in the lid?

 

[67Dart273]

Finally got the trolley/ traveling hoist rapped up just now. I don't have a photo of the final jumper support in the last photo. The "double" joists I doubled with one underneath, making them roughly 4X4, they are channel steel.

The last fastener "hangs out" (where the jumper now is) because the shed is simply longer than the 20' stick of material

 

[lurchs66cuda]

If moisture was a concern, once the top is put on then remove the bung and stick a hose to the bottom and run nitrogen into it for a few minutes and reseal.

 

[66Dvert]

That too crossed my mind. Silicone does not appeal. I won't be getting into it/ them very often, but I don't want to screw up the lid when doing so. "Breaking into" a silicone seal doesn't sound fun

I silicone seal the lids on mine, but I put a layer of saran wrap on the lip of the drum for easy removal and coat the lid with silicone. I remove "most" of the saran wrap once the silicone has cured.
that is how I made my bigger pressure pots for casting larger rubber parts.

 

[67Dart273]

I silicone seal the lids on mine, but I put a layer of saran wrap on the lip of the drum for easy removal and coat the lid with silicone. I remove "most" of the saran wrap once the silicone has cured.
that is how I made my bigger pressure pots for casting larger rubber parts.

OH MAN!! Too easy!!! Thanks!!

 

[Unconventional]

Looks like "Better living through Uni-Strut" ... Some fine fab work going on there.

 

[67Dart273]

Looks like "Better living through Uni-Strut" ... Some fine fab work going on there.

Thanks, "that stuff" is quite the backstory. It is some sort of "part of a warehouse shelving" system, they bought too much built the warehouse, and all this was left over. I paid a fair amount for it. It's nominal 2"X2"x 8 ft plus or minus. I pulled it home back when I had the 86 Ranger, (2.9V6) and it would barely move!!! It was all on pallets, I didn't know what I had. There was bill of lading on each pallet, I added it all up SEVENTY NINE HUNDRED POUNDS. This is not counting the weight of the trailer and probably another 500 lbs of rigging and junk in the trailer. I've built this shed and the front car port out of it

Building the front port, and the Ranger in question. Both ports use 36" stud spacing. This one the upper and lower horizontals of the trusses I "scab spliced" and as you can see triangulated them

I've never shoveled it............

Starting the rear one, the one discussed above... The studs and the rafters are full length pieces of this material, the horizontal joists are spliced. They are what I doubled for this project. All this one done "one man." Used the farmall and front loader to set them in place.

Long before I shedded it in......Part of the sides are roofing, the lower part of the sides and the end doors are made of floor panning used in high rises. They lay that panning down, and pour concrete floors in them.