Thought it was leaky pan but now...

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gdizzle

gdizzle

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Searched many of the threads, all about the leaking pan gasket fix. Took it in, replaced gasket, still leaked, took it back in says fluid is coming from above the pan.

I verified and from driver side engine, I can look down at the tranny connection/linkage and I can see pink fluid surrounding the linkage point. I see a small bolt and square nut.

I assume there must be an Oring there? And that it would be impossible to replace with the transmission still in car? It must be dropped?

Can anyone confirm?
1966 dart , L6 225, 904 auto.

p.s. i really would like to just fix the leak, however I am going to assume that if the tranny has to be dropped, then there are probably a few other things that I should have rebuilt or replaced? or at least checked out. BTW this is not DIY, I would need to take it to a tranny shop.
 
There is a seal that fits in the top of the shift shaft for the throttle pressure shaft. After pulling your levers off there is an "E" clip that keeps the throttle pressure shaft in place along with a washer. You can replace the seal without dropping the pan if you are VERY CAREFUL. The lever is easily dropped into the pan so you may just plan on pulling the pan anyway. If fluid is getting that high in the tranny your converter is bleeding back into the pan. You should get one of the later shift improver kits with the new valve design that prevents this and also allows you to check fluid in PARK.

The Transgo Sk® Tf8 Transmission Shift Kit
 
Would you have any links or model names of the shift improver kits? Sounds interesting.
 
They have them on E-bay starting at around $28. The seals for the shift shaft and throttle pressure shaft are sold separately.


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gdizzle said:
BTW this is not DIY, I would need to take it to a tranny shop.
Click to expand...

It could be, don't get raped at the shop; these dudes are simple, you can rebuild them in your kitchen. Nailed mine the first time. For the cost, you could rent someones garage for two months and still have some left over.
 
This little kit does require dropping the valve body. You will also need a drill, file, and other basic hand tools like wrenches and sockets. I suggest you watch a few videos on You tube. This one does not require removal of servo pistons etc. You will want to adjust the bands while you are there which is also a fairly simple operation. Just don't freak out when you see the normal debris that these transmissions create. That is how many a transmission shop ripped people off saying they needed an overhaul when all that was in the pan was typical.
 
There are actually two seals in the linkage.
One around main linkage stem, and one inside it for the TP valve stem under the C clip and washer.

The one in the case is kind of a PIA unless you have a slide hammer you can put a washer on to pull it down in the case from the top, or there are a couple of other creative ways of doing it.

Note that you can get a taller seal for the case in case the shaft on your valve body is grooved.
 

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Glad you had a picture handy. I've used a socket and a pry bar to push the shift shaft seal in before but I think some all thread and sockets will do it easier.
 
mguner said:
Glad you had a picture handy. I've used a socket and a pry bar to push the shift shaft seal in before but I think some all thread and sockets will do it easier.
Click to expand...

That's one of the other creative ways.
 
I also have a 727 leaking from the linkage pointed to in the picture below. It leaks when driving and just sitting.
My question is what do the seals look like? I dont really want to buy a full kit for $200. Do the seals pictured look right?
 

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NOTE. if you decide to do the shift kit yourself, listen to this carefully... when the filing and drilling the holes is done, BE SURE TO CLEAN VERY GOOD! any liitle metal bit dirt or fiber that gets into an orifice can cause problems. CLEAN IT AND CLEAN IT WELL
 
purplehazenils said:
I also have a 727 leaking from the linkage pointed to in the picture below. It leaks when driving and just sitting.
My question is what do the seals look like? I dont really want to buy a full kit for $200. Do the seals pictured look right?
Click to expand...

Yep, looks good.
I got both of those seals, a new rear seal and tailshaft bushing from www.transpartsonline.com for 21.78 shipped.
The tailshaft housing, speedometer, and cork seal under the trans mount I will do with RTV while I have it off to replace the other stuff.
I could just get a puller for the output shaft bushing, but I want to do some governor work anyway.

Note that the small (TP shaft seal) goes in the opposite way that it is laying in the picture. (open side down)
 
Which is the seal I need for the linkage? Does it have an official name? Cant seem to find it on Rockauto.
 
Just wrapping this thread up. Recap: I first took it to a mechanic and had him replace the tran filter and gasket. Leaked. he tightened up again, leaked. said linkage seal was bad but he can not fix.
Had car engine rebuilt, that mechanic was going to fix it for me, until he realized he would have to remove the valve body to get to the seal, so he didnt fix it. Leaking pretty bad. Last week took it to Aamco (yikes, right) where a father son team run it and have lots of old cars around. He says he can fix it. Gets it on the rack and says linkage seal is leaking and the pan gasket is leaking. He removes pan, hammers it out a little, replaces linkage seal, replaces gasket, careful not to get too tight. And now no leaks. $150. and he said bring it back in 2 weeks and he will recheck it to make sure all is well.
 
I'm sure this won't make you feel any better now, but they make a seal removal tool that takes the seal out without even having to drop the pan, and a driver tool to seat in a new one.
The internal seal around the TP rod is a little tougher with it all together, but not too bad.

KD tools #2392 $25.00 with free shipping on ebay.
 

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I had this same thing happen with mine! I dropped the trans for it and once it was in we found it hadn't gone in right, so that was a pita doing it while in! It still has that leak however on the pan, it has been replaced a few times what do you think it is? I think the pan is just screwed because it is bent a little but maybe the seal could be wrong too?
 
48james said:
I had this same thing happen with mine! I dropped the trans for it and once it was in we found it hadn't gone in right, so that was a pita doing it while in! It still has that leak however on the pan, it has been replaced a few times what do you think it is? I think the pan is just screwed because it is bent a little but maybe the seal could be wrong too?
Click to expand...

Get the bonded rubber with a steel core pan gasket, and done deal.
You can find it as a 42RE trans pan gasket at the dealership.

Of course a straight pan helps a lot. :D

Also, just in case you didn't know there is a cork gasket under a small cover right under the trans mount on the bottom of the tailhousing that can leak just like the cork pan gaskets.
Then there is also the rear servo lever pivot pin in the lower back of the case just above the pan rail.
It has a groove around it with an oring on it that you can't see, and that can also leak and look like a pan problem.
The only real way to fix that one is to drop the pan and push it out of the case, and the extension housing has to be unbolted and at the very least twisted around a little to expose that pin so it can be pushed out from the inside.
 
Thanks TrailBeast! I'll look into that but I really think its just the pan. I've straightened it out many times and torqued the bolts perfect so I think its just bent beyond it's point. Will check those other things though:wack:
 
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