Pretty much figured out its an alignment issue. Brackets are pretty flimsy, and when I spin motor over 5800 it throws belt. Thinking of picking up a new bracket set up from Classic Industries for my Federal pump. Any ideas on quality of their setup? Is it better than stock?
Throwing PS/Water Pump belt on 340
- Thread starter chaditotx
- Start date
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70Duster440
Well-Known Member
Check out Hoffman's - Classic probably gets them from them.
http://www.hoffmanswinnerscircle.com/cat16.htm
Also, if a belt is thrown, and it has been stretched/tweaked severely, it'll never run true again. I've seen it. You may have to throw it away and get a new one. But start with a proper set of brackets.
http://www.hoffmanswinnerscircle.com/cat16.htm
Also, if a belt is thrown, and it has been stretched/tweaked severely, it'll never run true again. I've seen it. You may have to throw it away and get a new one. But start with a proper set of brackets.
draginmopars
Well-Known Member
on our 70 Dart
We bought a P/S puller
to improve the alignment
in our case, the P/S pulley needed to go back 1/16"
Have no problems now , spinning it to 6800 rpm's
We bought a P/S puller
to improve the alignment
in our case, the P/S pulley needed to go back 1/16"
Have no problems now , spinning it to 6800 rpm's
69B-Cuda
Well-Known Member
also look for a pulley that is bent or wobbling a bit! I have seen that cause belts to come off.
Thanks guys... the pulley is good, just put on a new pump and it spins true. the pump is cocked over and not running on the same plane as the crank. The brackets from Hoffmans look good! I will end up buying a new belt pretty soon. I am on my 3rd one in 6 months. I agree, if they fly off or roll, they end up "trained" to do it over and over
rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
Just went through this myself, tossed a belt at 7,000 rpm going down the track. One of those things you don't think about until it happens then you find out it's a common problem.
Did some research and found a shim kit for the WP and crank pulleys. After the shims were installed, the alternator was at a slightly different depth and angle than the other pulleys. I had to put washers behind the alt. brackets and in front of the spacer behind the top mounting ear to get it lined up and angled right. Have not spun it up too high yet but visually it looks better than before the shims.
I was running a repro pulley set and the WP pulley was not machined correctly making the belt ride up a little higher and twist slightly in the groove. You could see it from the side, one side was much thicker than the other. I replaced it with an old OE pulley which had a more evenly machined groove, the belt sits much flatter now. Fingers crossed.
Also, if you look closely with the car running you can see the accessory brackets flex when you whack the throttle and the motor torques over. It's easy to see how you toss a belt, especially if you are on and off the throttle causing the belt to slack for a moment then spinning it back up high again.
And FWIW, a lot of people recommend a Dayco top cog belt. I had a Car Quest/Gates belt and switched to the Dayco when I replaced it.
Going to start carrying extra belts with me though, just in case.
Did some research and found a shim kit for the WP and crank pulleys. After the shims were installed, the alternator was at a slightly different depth and angle than the other pulleys. I had to put washers behind the alt. brackets and in front of the spacer behind the top mounting ear to get it lined up and angled right. Have not spun it up too high yet but visually it looks better than before the shims.
I was running a repro pulley set and the WP pulley was not machined correctly making the belt ride up a little higher and twist slightly in the groove. You could see it from the side, one side was much thicker than the other. I replaced it with an old OE pulley which had a more evenly machined groove, the belt sits much flatter now. Fingers crossed.
Also, if you look closely with the car running you can see the accessory brackets flex when you whack the throttle and the motor torques over. It's easy to see how you toss a belt, especially if you are on and off the throttle causing the belt to slack for a moment then spinning it back up high again.
And FWIW, a lot of people recommend a Dayco top cog belt. I had a Car Quest/Gates belt and switched to the Dayco when I replaced it.
Going to start carrying extra belts with me though, just in case.
SoulSurvivor
Well-Known Member
Also check you have the right crank pulley. They changed from 1969 to 1970 as did the water pump. If you use a pulley from 68-69 and use a '70-73 alternator bracket your fan belt will be off a bit. And your fan belt will pop off.
I know that's right on the extra belts... I was wondering why I had 3 of the same belt in the trunk when I bought the car.
I ordered the reproduction bracket set from Classic Industries today. When It comes in, I will test fit. if all is well after running it a while, I may gusset up the bracket in a few places for insurance. I will find a Dayco belt .Oh lord... Ma Mopar is full of design changes. I still don't miss my Chebby though.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
Are you sure you are running the correct pulleys and brackets??
How about a few pics of what you have now.
How about a few pics of what you have now.
I believe so on the brackets. I will try to take some pics when I get home and we get some daylight.
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