Archeryguy02
Well-Known Member
I certainly like having more power on tap at the top end than the other cars.
Tight converter consistency
- Thread starter Archeryguy02
- Start date
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33IMP
Well-Known Member
Right now, at 12.20 in a 12.0 class, you're a duck. Most that run that class can run 11.50s, cause if you run into bad weather, and cant step up to run the number.......?
Its a lot easier to slow down 11.80 to run 12.00, than pick up a tenth or three when you cant run the number.
I would want it to run 11.60 in good weather, 11.85 or better, in any weather. Then there are bunches of ways to slow down, you would just have to find what works best for you.
Archeryguy02
Well-Known Member
The lockup only comes on in high gear, I have heard of some serious racers using lock up converters. John Cope has some he has developed for high performance applications.
I need to clarify, I dont have to run a 12.0 dial the class is 12.0 and slower. I just want to be running the majority or all of the competition down rather than waiting for them. I know if I make the car faster I can find ways to slow it down, I am
I need to clarify. I am running a 12.0 and slower sportsman bracket, I don't have to dial 12.0. My main concern is how much if any will a tight converter hurt my consistency providing everything is else is sufficient.
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
I totally understand that consistency is the key component in drag racing.
I dont understand why you think your converter may be causing consistency issue. A converter is a mechanical device that normally does not change in it's function. Lock out your overdrive and make as many passes as you can under the same conditions your time slips will tell you the real story.
IMHO the most inconsistency in drag racing other than the weather is the driver.
I dont understand why you think your converter may be causing consistency issue. A converter is a mechanical device that normally does not change in it's function. Lock out your overdrive and make as many passes as you can under the same conditions your time slips will tell you the real story.
IMHO the most inconsistency in drag racing other than the weather is the driver.
Archeryguy02
Well-Known Member
I don't necessarily think my tight converter is causing me a consistency issue, I need more passes in the car to form a well informed opinion regarding that. I have been told by a few people it can cause consistency issues, and I was trying to see if anyone here had any experience that would confirm it as well as give me an idea of how much.
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
Unless these "few people" handed you some solid proof of the issue I think you may have been handed a line of BS.
I dont claim to know everything about torque converters but I have never heard of this issue before.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
My bad, i misunderstood. I thought you were trying to run a 12.00 index class.
To be honest, i would thinka too-low stall would be more consistent, no low end horsepower should take wheelspin out of the equation. You have that now with the 60 ft you are running. And you will have to run down everybody from behind, cause everybody will 60 ft better than that.
Archeryguy02
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the help, I greatly appreciate it.
Well I certainly hope you are correct because I like the way the car is now for the class I am running. One of the sources is a world champion bracket racer, and the caveat is can cause consistency issues not absolutely will.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
If you race a guy with the same dial as you, and he 60ft.s at a normal 1.65, you will be in a heads-up race where you are a full carlength behind at sixty foot, assuming identical lights. You will be chasing everybody!
When I was trying to slow my car down to run sportsman, my final solution was:
1. Disconnect the secondaries on the carb (just pull the pin so they won't open). Was about 0.4 seconds.
2. Launch in second gear (only if you have a manual valve body. Was about 0.4 seconds.
3. Retard timing. For me it was about another 0.4 seconds, but this will vary depending on how much you pull (I think I was at about 25°).
4. Added weight (only could add about 100 lbs if I recall). ~0.1 seconds
5. Short shifted at 5500 (I used to shift at ~6500). I don't remember what this did for my combo...just that it was there.
All in all, I went from ~10.7x to 12.0x at 116 ish. My final piece which I only used if the air was really good was an old skinny/dirty aircleaner....that thing would slow me a little over a tenth by itself, lol.
My word of warning is, I did have to rebuild my trans RIGHT before the division finals race, and my guess is it was probably due to all the second gear launches (although I could be wrong, it was on its 8th year if I recall correctly)....Good luck.
1. Disconnect the secondaries on the carb (just pull the pin so they won't open). Was about 0.4 seconds.
2. Launch in second gear (only if you have a manual valve body. Was about 0.4 seconds.
3. Retard timing. For me it was about another 0.4 seconds, but this will vary depending on how much you pull (I think I was at about 25°).
4. Added weight (only could add about 100 lbs if I recall). ~0.1 seconds
5. Short shifted at 5500 (I used to shift at ~6500). I don't remember what this did for my combo...just that it was there.
All in all, I went from ~10.7x to 12.0x at 116 ish. My final piece which I only used if the air was really good was an old skinny/dirty aircleaner....that thing would slow me a little over a tenth by itself, lol.
My word of warning is, I did have to rebuild my trans RIGHT before the division finals race, and my guess is it was probably due to all the second gear launches (although I could be wrong, it was on its 8th year if I recall correctly)....Good luck.
Archeryguy02
Well-Known Member
Only by a car or 2 or 3 and only to 1000' depending on the light. I made the 4th round a couple weeks ago and ran two 12.0 dialed cars. I caught them at a slow closing speed and easily wheel raced them to take the stripe.
Then lost in the 4th on a double break out chasing a 14.5 dialed car, the car picked up and I took too much stripe but had a .05 advantage on the light.
Archeryguy02
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the great info. The limited level of modification to my tranny to this point has made it to where if I were to put it in 2nd it would start in first and quickly shift to 2nd automatically.
Pics?
Archeryguy02
Well-Known Member
I usually take pics but I didn't this time. I will see if I can pull one when I get home and snap a pic although it may be a bit different than right after a run.
Archeryguy02
Well-Known Member
Archeryguy02
Well-Known Member
Yah it will take some time. Does the glossy mean something?
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
Don't believe them. I had my convertor tightened up for my new motor and am very happy with it.
60 foots good and doesn't slip much on the big end... exactly what i wanted..avoiding a ton of RPM so it lives a nice long life.
Whoever told you a tight convertor would be guilty of inconsistency issues is full of beans..
Its no more likely( and probably less likely) than a “loose” vert would be.
Look elsewhere for inconsistency issues, assuming the vert isn't broken
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