Tightening the 2>3 overlap in a 727

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guzzimike

guzzimike

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Any advice on how to do this...without installing a TF-2 kit or any other kit..?

IOW, is there an easy access, internal adjustment that can be done to an existing, stock Trans..?

Thank you.
 
try backing off the band adjustment 1/2 turn on the kickdown band...
 
70aarcuda said:
try backing off the band adjustment 1/2 turn on the kickdown band...
Click to expand...

I am Transmission Illiterate...do you have a link or pics on how to go about doing this..?

Thank You.


ADDED: My specific problem is too SLOW a shift between 2nd to 3rd...

I understand that this condition is Not called "Overlap" but rather "Engine Flare"

Sorry for the confusion..
 
Guzzi mike, get a long boxed in offset-type 3/4" wrench, and above the linkage on the driver's side, you'll see the 3/4" nut. Loosen it and then using a 5/16" open end wrench, tighten the inner screw as tight as you can get it with the short wrench, say a 3" to 4" long one. Then, back the 5/16" screw out 2 turns and while holding it, snug the 3/4" nut. Go drive it and if it flares again, loosen the big nut while holding the small screw and tighten the 5/16" screw 1/2 more turn in.
If this does not fix it, you may have to remove the trans so you can repair/replace the worn clutches or band or both.
Tom
 
My linkage is all LOKAR...I have a 750 Holley Carb ( vacuum Seconday) on a Perf RPM manifold.

This car is a Daily Driver only, 383 with 3.91 gears.

The tranny was checked out recently ( 6 months ago) and tuned up by California Performance Transmission (Art Carr's shop). They told me all the internals look good. Kickdown function is good.

This tranny works just fine when the Dart is left in "DRIVE"...it shifts fine when driving sedately, and when I mash the throttle, the shifts move up the RPM range as they should...

The issue arises Only when I go to shift manually @ WOT at 5800 RPM (I have a shift light). That's when the 2-3 shift goes into Time-delay mode.

IOW, I move the lever from 2nd to 3rd, and the actual tranny shift takes between 1.5 to 3 seconds to occur.

BTW, the manual 1-2 shift at 5800 RPM is Dead-On...

I move the lever from 1st to 2nd, and the tranny shifts in like 1/4 second...almost instantaneously
 
guzzimike said:
My linkage is all LOKAR...I have a 750 Holley Carb ( vacuum Seconday) on a Perf RPM manifold.

This car is a Daily Driver only, 383 with 3.91 gears.

The tranny was checked out recently ( 6 months ago) and tuned up by California Performance Transmission (Art Carr's shop). They told me all the internals look good. Kickdown function is good.

This tranny works just fine when the Dart is left in "DRIVE"...it shifts fine when driving sedately, and when I mash the throttle, the shifts move up the RPM range as they should...

The issue arises Only when I go to shift manually @ WOT at 5800 RPM (I have a shift light). That's when the 2-3 shift goes into Time-delay mode.

IOW, I move the lever from 2nd to 3rd, and the actual tranny shift takes between 1.5 to 3 seconds to occur.

BTW, the manual 1-2 shift at 5800 RPM is Dead-On...

I move the lever from 1st to 2nd, and the tranny shifts in like 1/4 second...almost instantaneously
Click to expand...
Mike, I think you're simply shifting the car too early from 2 to 3.

George
 
George R said:
Mike, I think you're simply shifting the car too early from 2 to 3.

George
Click to expand...

Hi, George...

I suppose that's a possibility, but I'm told that according to my 383 engine's and drivetrain specs, I should shift at around 5500 RPM...That this is when my engine's power band optimizes...

So with that advice in mind, I normaly go to up 5800 RPM ( that's where I set my Shift Light) so as to not drop off too much RPMs during the shift..

Also, sometimes when the 2-3 shift doesn't happen, I just keep hunting for the Tranny to shift, regardless of the 5800 RPM shift light.

Sometimes I even hit my MSD6AL rev limiter (set at 6400-RPM) without having gotten the 2-3 shift...
 
guzzimike said:
Hi, George...

I suppose that's a possibility, but I'm told that according to my 383 engine's and drivetrain specs, I should shift at around 5500 RPM...That this is when my engine's power band optimizes...

So with that advice in mind, I normaly go to up 5800 RPM ( that's where I set my Shift Light) so as to not drop off too much RPMs during the shift..

Also, sometimes when the 2-3 shift doesn't happen, I just keep hunting for the Tranny to shift, regardless of the 5800 RPM shift light.

Sometimes I even hit my MSD6AL rev limiter (set at 6400-RPM) without having gotten the 2-3 shift...
Click to expand...
Hmmmmmmmmmm.
Kinda sounds like my car. If I have my foot to the floor (shifting auto or manual) it will not shift out of 1st gear. I have to back off the pedal in order for it to shift. I was told my kickdown linkage isn't properly adjusted, and because I can't get it any better than it is right now, I just leave it alone.
Maybe you can adjust the cable a little so it will shift sooner??

George
 
To answer your original post, NO, there is no "easy adjustment" to cure this. RPM flash between 2-3 is a fairly common Torquefliteism. The TF-2 kit addresses this. You would have as much work into it as installing the kit anyhow. So just save up and do the TF-2.

Backing off the band will make this worse. The band is releasing 2nd gear before the front drum clutches apply. If anything, you may want to tighten the band, but I would adjust it by the book first before I started monkeying with it.
 
George R said:
Hmmmmmmmmmm.
Kinda sounds like my car. If I have my foot to the floor (shifting auto or manual) it will not shift out of 1st gear. I have to back off the pedal in order for it to shift. I was told my kickdown linkage isn't properly adjusted, and because I can't get it any better than it is right now, I just leave it alone.
Maybe you can adjust the cable a little so it will shift sooner??

George
Click to expand...

You may wanna try to let the Kickdown cable Out a bit..


When I adjusted my Lokar Kickdown cable on my own, I did it by having it fully engaged (Kickdown lever fully forward to its stop) when the Carb cable was fully floored and all butterflies were open to their full travel...

Well, it turns out that this may or may not be best setting for any one car..

I had the Art Carr people adjust my kickdown cable, and they gave it a bit more "play" than where I had it set up originally...

What this did for my particular car's set-up was to get all the shifts smoother while driving mellow in traffic, but at the same time allow shifting a bit higher up the RPM scale when going Medieval on the accelerator pedal.

And the Kickdown delay comes in a bit sooner and more predicatble..

I don't know if I'm expalining it correctly, so apologies if I'm confusing you..

Also, make SURE that you have a return spring connected to your Kickdown lever down at the Transmission. Doing this firmed up my Kickdown function.
 
C130 Chief said:
To answer your original post, NO, there is no "easy adjustment" to cure this. RPM flash between 2-3 is a fairly common Torquefliteism. The TF-2 kit addresses this. You would have as much work into it as installing the kit anyhow. So just save up and do the TF-2.

Backing off the band will make this worse. The band is releasing 2nd gear before the front drum clutches apply. If anything, you may want to tighten the band, but I would adjust it by the book first before I started monkeying with it.
Click to expand...

Thank you...

I guess it's TF-2 time...8)
 
Mike, Chief's right. The only way to make it better is install a TF-2 kit. Nearly every stock torqueflite I've seen acts like yours and their isn't much you can do short of installing the kit. It's really not a hard kit to install. Approx. a 3 hr. job if you don't have a lift. A lift will knock off 1/2 hr.
 
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