Timing Chain

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Scody21 said:
I don’t disagree. The real issue is that the quality of most chains produced today is not great and they stretch, thus causing other issues like timing jumping around due to the “whip” of the chain. I went down this rabbit hole 2 years ago. We tried 5 different timing lights, 2 different distributors that were ran on the test machine, changed out the MSD and coil, all came back with the same issue of the timing jumping around. Then did surgery, pulled the cover and found that the chain had a ton of slop on the driven side. Oh yeah, it’s was a Cloyes true roller chain with like 20 hours on it. Changed it to the pro gear I posted above. The timing issue was then corrected..
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20 hours, that is so sad.
 
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Probably 25 years ago I went to replace the timing chain on a 318 and bought a cloyes from AutoZone, put it on just to discover it had damneer as much slop as the one I was replacing. I think it was the one listed as "heavy duty replacement". So I returned it and went down the street to the speed shop we had in town for a while and bought the Edelbrock true roller. Huge difference much better
 
A bigger problem these days than sloppy timing chains I have encountered on small blocks is coolant leaks caused by pitted timing chain covers basically behind the alternator area where the cover curves around from vertical to horizontal
 
Yes we must get past our
Loyalty to old Parts producers who are
Corporately owned now versus privately owned
Back in the day !!!

SA GEAR
ROLLMASTER
JP Performance
Are 3 quality producers of timing sets

SA gear makes the Milodon
Chrysler LA set that we purchase in a Milodon box.
 
SS Lancer said:
Yes we must get past our
Loyalty to old Parts producers who are
Corporately owned now versus privately owned
Back in the day !!!

SA GEAR
ROLLMASTER
JP Performance
Are 3 quality producers of timing sets

SA gear makes the Milodon
Chrysler LA set that we purchase in a Milodon box.
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I was suprised how much slack was taken up with a tensioner on a Cloyes set.

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Scody21 said:
Should learn to use the search bar of the site. Most of the items you posted about are beaten to death.

For the new year, we all award @Dan the man this certificate for 2023….

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Rehashing old information here brings the post count up. :lol:
I am a member of another forum where the senior members are azzholes to the newbies about asking questions that have been previously covered. "Read till your eyes bleed" then ask questions. That turns a lot of people off and away from the site. Bringing the subject up again can add new information, parts, and techniques to the old way of doing things. Just sayin!
 
Dan the man said:
That surprise you? FYI, I'm the one who started the thread so naturally I'm going to be following it.
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The emoji means that he is now following your thread so he will be notified whenever something gets posted here. ie: he's interested in your thread content.
 
toolmanmike said:
There's 15 pages here with "timing chain" in the title. That should be a good start. Study up! Search results for query: timing chain
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I may have overacted. The search function works as it was designed to do and does it well. I just find more content to the subject I am hoping to find by using the "site" function on google.
 
I'll step into this mess for a second to say this... Soak your new chain in oil prior to install. Running a new chain without doing so seems to be a quick way to kill them. Just my 2 cents. That is all.

:thumbsup:
 
I have a hard time believing that any timing chain, true roller, untrue roller or link type would be in 'good condition' after 150,000 miles.
 
So I went through the decision making process about a tensioner. Smart people with actual experience did not agree. I put one in. Three years later I pull it apart and the guides are hammered and broken in half. The flat spring is trying to eat its way through the cover. No more tensioners for me. I buy the roll master with the IWIS chain. Been in there 4-5 times since and it is still tight. Finally replaced it two years ago, but kept the old one. No real idea why, just was bugging me. They should be tight. Tensioner is a bandaid for an improper fitting set.
 
furrystump said:
So I went through the decision making process about a tensioner. Smart people with actual experience did not agree. I put one in. Three years later I pull it apart and the guides are hammered and broken in half. The flat spring is trying to eat its way through the cover. No more tensioners for me. I buy the roll master with the IWIS chain. Been in there 4-5 times since and it is still tight. Finally replaced it two years ago, but kept the old one. No real idea why, just was bugging me. They should be tight. Tensioner is a bandaid for an improper fitting set.
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Exactly. I hope I don't have to get into my 273 and If I do I hope I won't find tensioner issues. They were designed for 3.9 Magnum V6's that had single chain slop and were rubbing on the timing cover. They were a metal gear, non roller set. (low bid I am sure) Now saying that, both of my 3.9's had well over 100,000 rounds on the clock and just kept running when the noise got bad. I replaced one with a double roller and never looked back. There's really no reason for a tensioner if you have a good double roller set.

 
Bewy said:
I have a hard time believing that any timing chain, true roller, untrue roller or link type would be in 'good condition' after 150,000 miles.
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I have a stock 340 double roller timing in a 273 with 300,000 miles on it. Engine starts in a heartbeat and runs great. Mild performance, no serious valve spring pressures or crazy fast lobes.
 
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